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Forum Index > Historical Arms Talk > Cuir Boulli quandary Reply to topic
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Richard Fay




Location: Upstate New York
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PostPosted: Sat 14 Oct, 2006 8:30 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello all!

Richard,
Welcome!

I'm fairly new to this site as well, and was attracted to it by the above-average intelligence and quality of the discussions here. It seems we both found a new cyberspace home!

Now, be careful basing your armour knowledge on role-playing games. I was originally drawn to the study of arms and armour by playing Dungeons and Dragons in the mid-80's (am I horribly dating myself here?), but their information isn't always accurate. I would highly recommend getting yourself some quality books on the subject. One of the best, although hard to find, is Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight by David Edge and John Miles Paddock. Anything by Ewart Oakeshott would also be a help, although some of his information regarding the padded garments worn beneath armour is a bit outdated. Take a look at some of our reading lists to get a good idea of what's available to further your knowledge!

Now, about leather armour; keep in mind that this was typically worn as a supplement to a mail hauberk and a padded gambeson or aketon. There are a few manuscript images that may show a "curie" (leather breastplate) worn by itself, but leather usually supplemented other defences. Also, leather or "cuir-boulli" (hardened leather) was most prevalent during the late 13th-early 14th centuries, a time of great experimentation in armour. This period also saw armour made from horn, latten (a medieval type of copper-alloy similar to brass), and whalebone (or baleen).

There is a great debate over "studded leather" like Jean described. It is prevalent in role-playing games, but may not have been used historically. However, "studded and splinted armour", armour pieces where long, thin strips of metal and round studs were attached to leather (or perhaps cloth), was used in 14th century Germany and England. Many German effigies of the period, like that of Kaiser Gunther of Schwarzburg, Heinrich of Seinsheim, Conrad of Seinsheim, and Gottfried, Count of Arensberg, depict limb protections of "stud and splint" protection. The lost brass of Sir Miles Stapleton is one english example. Keep in mind that each of these knights wore "stud and splint" as a supplement to mail, and probably wore a metal breastplate or a coat-of-plates as a torso defence.

If you wish to do more accurate testing, you probably should get some padding and quality rivetted mail to test with your leather. It won't be cheap, but it would be a more accurate representation of what the typical medieval warrior of the early 14th century might have worn. I won't go too deeply into testing, though, since a lot has already been said regarding the issue.

If you have any questions about leather armour, or armour in general, feel free to ask on these forums. There are many knowledgable members that would be glad to help.

Stay safe!

Richard F.

"I'm going to do what the warriors of old did! I'm going to recite poetry!"
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Dan Howard




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PostPosted: Sat 14 Oct, 2006 5:30 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Current thinking is that "studded leather" is a misinterpretation of brigandine illustrations. Studded armour did not exist historically. Practical experimentation suports this. Adding metal studs to leather or quilted cloth provides virtually no additional protection against any of the weapons faced on a medieval battlefield.

Regarding boiled leather. Firstly, it isn't really "boiled." It is heated/cooked but if temperatures reach boiling point then the leather is often ruined. Secondly, you can't just go and buy some leather from a shop and heat it. It needs to be vegetable tanned leather. Most modern tanning methods produce leather that cannot be made into cuir bouilli.
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Jean Thibodeau




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PostPosted: Sat 14 Oct, 2006 7:36 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Dan Howard wrote:
Current thinking is that "studded leather" is a misinterpretation of brigandine illustrations. Studded armour did not exist historically. Practical experimentation suports this. Adding metal studs to leather or quilted cloth provides virtually no additional protection against any of the weapons faced on a medieval battlefield.

Regarding boiled leather. Firstly, it isn't really "boiled." It is heated/cooked but if temperatures reach boiling point then the leather is often ruined. Secondly, you can't just go and buy some leather from a shop and heat it. It needs to be vegetable tanned leather. Most modern tanning methods produce leather that cannot be made into cuir bouilli.



Oh, I wasn't suggesting anything " historical " about studded leather: Only an unsupported opinion that it could, depending on density and pattern improve the cut resistance of a leather armour and mostly with a draw cut and of almost zero utility with a thrust. I would be curious about those tests proving that metal reinforcements are of insignificant use ? If facing a pollaxe, halberd or spear I would tend to agree that studs would be largely irrelevant.

A low density pattern would do very little as the odds are high that a blade might miss ALL studs or widely spaced small plates or bars.

And thanks Jeff for the technical information about using vegetable tanned leather if one expects any results in attempting to make some " actual " boiled leather and not just boiling leather to no effect! Cool

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Richard Fay




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PostPosted: Sat 14 Oct, 2006 9:21 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello all!

Dan Howard wrote:

Current thinking is that "studded leather" is a misinterpretation of brigandine illustrations. Studded armour did not exist historically. Practical experimentation suports this. Adding metal studs to leather or quilted cloth provides virtually no additional protection against any of the weapons faced on a medieval battlefield.


Dan,
I must disagree with your position regarding studded armour. There are a few examples of Chinese cloth armour that possess studs but no underlying plates. One of about 1840 is shown in a photo in George Cameron Stone's massive glossary of arms and armour. Granted, it's probably more ceremonial than practical, being armour of the officers of the Imperial Guard. Another is shown in Stephen Turnbull's An Historical Guide to Arms and Armour. This one from the Kienlung Period of 1736-95 has a few plates on the shoulders and chest, but the majority of the protection is provided by quilted fabric peppered with round studs.

I agree that this must provide minimal protection at best, and many claims of medieval studded armour are misinterpretations of brigandine, but these studded cloth Chinese armours bear a striking resemblance to some of the torso protection worn over the hauberk on some of the early 14th century English brasses.

Some of the older authors used to think these represented padded garments, not early coats-of-plates, but recent authors have rejected this notion. After taking a close look at quality illustrations and reproductions of some of these brasses (like the pictures in Henry Trivick's The Picture Book of Brasses in Gilt and the drawings in Charles Henry Ashdown's European Arms and Armor), I'm not sure the idea should be so easily discarded.

Take a close look at the brasses of Sir John D'Aubernoun the Younger of 1327 or Sir John De Creke of 1325. Both wear a studded garment beneath the "cyclas" and over the hauberk. Both garments show lines similar to the quilting lines on the gambesons or aketons underneath the mail. The lines can be seen at the armpit on each, and it each case it curves to follow the curve of the body. Also, there appear to be no studs in the armpit area. The hem line on these garments also seems awfully low for a coat-of-plates. Furthermore, the D'Aubernoun brass shows rivets or studs along the lines as well as down the middle of the rows, a strange configuration if the "studs' were holding plates beneath the fabric. Finally, the brass of Sir John de Northwood may show the garment worn beneath the mail, although the lower half is a palimpset and may be an inaccurate restoration.

Later brasses such as the lost brass of Sir Miles de Stapleton, from an impression in the British Museum, show armour that more clearly represents a coat-of-plates or early brigandine. There are no "stitching" lines, and the rivets are lined up in nice neat rows.

Apparently, English armour of the early 14th century was known as being old-fashioned. In Armies and Warfare in the Middle Ages: the English Experience by Michael Prestwich, the author states that Jean le Bel had commented on how old-fashioned English armour was compared to that on the continent. Gambesons were worn over mail occasionally in the 13th century; a few soldiers in the Maciejowski Bible are so equipped. Perhaps the D'Abernoun the Younger and the De Creke brasses show a late survival of this sort of thing. Even if these garments are a sort of gambeson rather than a coat-of-plates, the "studs" may be more decorative than protective. Again remember that these brasses are from a time of experimentation in armour; even if they are "studded cloth", the concept didn't last long!

Now "stud and splint" or just "splinted" armour, armour made from leather (or perhaps cloth) reinforced with strips of metal, sometimes accompanied with "studs" or "disks" was widely used in Germany and sometimes elsewhere. Look at the effigy of Kaiser Gunther of Schwarzburg, for instance. The arms and legs are protected with mail supplemented with armour of leather (cloth?) reinforced with strips and disks. It was perhaps a "cheap" or "light" alternative to full plate. Or, could it be the Germans just thought it looked "mean"?

Of course, I agree with you whole heartedly that the typical "studded leather" armour so popular in role playing games was never used, as far as we know, as a torso defence!

I wish I could post the images of the brasses; perhaps someone else can!

I hope you found this of interest!

Maybe I should bring up the old bogey of "ring mail" next! Laughing Out Loud Laughing Out Loud Laughing Out Loud

Stay safe!

"I'm going to do what the warriors of old did! I'm going to recite poetry!"
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Richard Fay




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PostPosted: Sat 14 Oct, 2006 10:04 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello again!

I remembered another thing I read that led me to believe that the "studded" garment on the early 14th century English brasses may be a type of gambeson instead of a coat-of-plates. Mention is made in both Tournaments by Richard Barber and Juliet Barker and Warrior 18: Knight of Outremer 1187-1344 AD by David Nicolle of an early fourteenth century armorial treatise that describes how a knight should arm for combat and the tournament. The two books differ slightly in their interpretation; Nicolle says the knight preparing for the joust puts on an aketon, hauberk, and gambeson faced with fine silk, then plates or cuirass, shield, bascinet, and great helm. The book by Barber and Barker says that the knight preparing for the joust must put on his aketon, hauberk, and gambeson, the last a quilted surcoat made of precious cloth, then steel plates, a shield, a bascinet, and helm complete the outfit.

Compare this description to the D'Abernoun the Younger and De Creke brasses. If Nicolle was wrong about interpreting "steel plates" as a cuirass or coat-of-plates, then perhaps this was referring to the greaves and vambrace. Barber and Barker don't specify what "steel plates" meant. It could mean "pair-of-plates", "coat-of-plates", or "cuirass", but it could refer to the tubular steel defences for the limbs. Why insist that the outer gambeson should be made of precious cloth, preferably silk, if it was hidden beneath other garments? I know the hem may show anyway, but this description sounds remarkably similar to the harness depicted on the early 14th century brasses.

I know the treatise definitely mentions the addition of "plates de alemayne" (coat-of-plates, literally "German plates") and a "gorgeres" (gorget) as additions for war. The aketon-hauberk-gambeson combination was more for the joust (I assume the "joust of peace"), but perhaps old-fashioned English knights sometimes wore lighter, outdated armour. It fits with what Jean le Bel said about english equipment of the early 14th century.

It's getting late (and cold) here in "The Great Northeast". I hope this all made some sense!

Stay safe!

"I'm going to do what the warriors of old did! I'm going to recite poetry!"
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Dan Howard




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PostPosted: Sat 14 Oct, 2006 11:26 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Quote:
I must disagree with your position regarding studded armour. There are a few examples of Chinese cloth armour that possess studs but no underlying plates


I have termed these garments "faux brigandine". Brigandines were extremely fashionable both in Europe and in Asian courts. These so called "studded armours" are nothing but a fashionable attempt to emulate brigandines without the burden of plates underneath. They are not, nor ever were intended to be armour.

Bring up anything you like about medieval "ring mail". I have had years to accumulate ammo to demolish any argument for the affirmative. Razz
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Herbert Schmidt




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PostPosted: Sun 15 Oct, 2006 1:22 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I think your method of making hardened leather is responsible for the results. I have wax hardened leather in use for a sheath and it is almost like plastik, no way you are going to cut it through in normal use (everything can be destroyed). I know of two ways to harden leather and they both work well enough to give good protection. The one is with wax, the other with soda. So maybe instead of dismissing things to quickly I would rather try to research more and be sure you used the right method. Just rubbing in hot wax won't do, I agree.

I have never made any armour parts from hardened leather but as I said, the sheaths behave like plastik or kydex.

greetings

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Al Muckart




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PostPosted: Sun 15 Oct, 2006 1:48 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Herbert,

Herbert Schmidt wrote:
I think your method of making hardened leather is responsible for the results. I have wax hardened leather in use for a sheath and it is almost like plastik, no way you are going to cut it through in normal use (everything can be destroyed). I know of two ways to harden leather and they both work well enough to give good protection. The one is with wax, the other with soda. So maybe instead of dismissing things to quickly I would rather try to research more and be sure you used the right method. Just rubbing in hot wax won't do, I agree.


I'm curious, what kind of leather are you using, and what kind of wax are you using?

I have never, using either veg or chrome tanned leather and all sorts of waxes (including roxin/wax mixtures) seen wax hardened leather that wasn't almost trivially easy to cut through with a decent strike from a heavy knife and that wouldn't hold up any better against a sword or axe.

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Richard Fay




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PostPosted: Sun 15 Oct, 2006 7:20 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello all!

Dan Howard wrote:

I have termed these garments "faux brigandine". Brigandines were extremely fashionable both in Europe and in Asian courts. These so called "studded armours" are nothing but a fashionable attempt to emulate brigandines without the burden of plates underneath. They are not, nor ever were intended to be armour.


Dan,
I agree that this may be the proper assessment of some of the Chinese armours, and perhaps some later medieval studded garments. I disagree with you that this is what's shown on the early 14th century English effigies. These do show what looks like quilting lines, carved in a double line just like the gambesons or aketons in some of the even earlier brasses like the Septvan's brass. I also agree that the studs would have served a minimal protective value at best. The "studs" on both the D'Aubernoun and the De Creke brasses are in the shape of flowers, roses perhaps. I think they might have been more decorative than protective. The garments themselves, since they appear padded, are meant to be protective. Don't you agree that padded garments can offer some protective value? Wink

I think this actually deserves a thread of its own, so I'm going to split off my first post about "studded armour" (or perhaps we should call it "studded padded armour") and start a new thread. So, why don't we move this discission to a new thread?

I've got a bit more to say about this, and can probably add a few more details about the Chinese armours.

Oh, and by the way, I've got nothing to say about "ring mail". I think it's all been said before! Wink Big Grin Laughing Out Loud

"See" you on the new thread!

Stay safe!

Richard F.

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Lawrence Parramore





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PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2007 12:26 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi, I came across your leather armour topic, and it reminded me of what I had heard about the Zulus and Fussy Wussies of Africa in that their leather shields were so hard that the bullets ricocheted of them and the British armies swords were either broken or bent on contact. I think the reason steel armour supplanted leather was because it presented a glancing surface and was more upmarket, whereas leather would transfer the thrust more easily and might leave a knight unhorsed and in a bad position, also leather might have been seen as cheap.
Have none of you guys heard of Waterer he wrote a couple of books on the subject of leather and if I remember rightly went into detail on hardening leather particularly using very hot water, think it was boiling water and the leather is dipped quickly it then shrinks then you put this in molds, all done quickly!
I tried water, oil and wax and got good results with all about 23 years ago, but it is the process that is important, all of them can give from soft to so hard that they will crack.
Another factor is that leather can go off, steel rusts, so over time the leather one would be knocked about and go mouldy whereas the steel armour could be passed on or altered?
There is at least one mold for a shield found in Ireland sorry don't know where I saw it.!
As to painting on waxed leather,,, er why not, never heard of 'encaustic', http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encaustic_painting
As to gilding waxed or whatever leather there are many ways of gilding, including powdered gold leaf in wax.
Here is an illustration but not period unfortunately http://www.sturgeconservation.co.uk/gilt-and-...vation.htm
I am pretty sure some of the surcoats were painted and molded leather to judge from the effigys .
Oh and felt comes to mind also, the 'lincoln green' of robin hood's men was very likely the green felt of Richard the lionheart's archers who themselves returned from battle looking like hedgehogs because of the arrows the felt had saved them from, and then there is horn armour too.
My first time on this site, my apologies for the lack of illustrations to out line my points.
Best regards Lawrence
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David Huggins




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PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2007 1:04 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi,

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it but I was told that cuir boulli was produced by boiling in oil, speciffically fish oil. It was an old friend ,Mark Beaby, who is the leather artisan at the Royal Armouries Leeds who told me this.

I would recommend that you get a copy of 'Leather & the Warrior' by J.Waterer, still available online from Caliver Books here in the U.K.

Vegatable tanned leather is still available from various leather craft suppliers and re-enactor traders.

Best

Dave

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Jean Thibodeau




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PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2007 5:18 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Laurence there is also this thread discussing basically the same thing: http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=1510

Well, if you read all the posts on that Topic thread there are a lot of varied opinions about how useful leather was as armour and one thing that was convincing was that the cost of leather didn't make it a cheaper choice than maille or plate.

Depending on period we have mostly guesses about what was used and depending on the leather type the level of protection could be variable.

Some of the boiled leather seem to be very effective and exotic stuff like Rhino or Crocodile leather might be very effective?

My original thought about this was that in pre-history when metal was unknown there may have been a lot of armour based on organic materials that we have no proof about since it all rotted away !

This could be any kind of leather or textile armour by itself or reinforced with wood, bone/horn, seashells maybe even stone: Basically Neolithic cultures before writing or metal use. NO proof it just seems to me that humans where not stupid even 20,000 years ago and the idea of armour would have been just copying nature ! Once the idea of a shield was known other pieces of armour would be " logical " supplements to it.

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Kel Rekuta




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PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2007 7:09 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

David Huggins wrote:
Hi,

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it but I was told that cuir boulli was produced by boiling in oil, speciffically fish oil. It was an old friend ,Mark Beaby, who is the leather artisan at the Royal Armouries Leeds who told me this.

I would recommend that you get a copy of 'Leather & the Warrior' by J.Waterer, still available online from Caliver Books here in the U.K.

Vegatable tanned leather is still available from various leather craft suppliers and re-enactor traders.

Best

Dave


I think you may have confused what Mark told you. Buff leather is treated with fish oil. Boiling vegetable tanned leather in oil turns it into blackened twisted crispy bacon. The boiling point for oil is much higher than that for water.

Thanks for the tip on the republication of Leather and the Warrior. Got a link handy? I only have a photocopy.

Cheers!
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Lawrence Parramore





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PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2007 7:20 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I think somebody mentioned earlier that it is like cooking, I like my bacon crispy whereas others may like it nearly raw, so don't cook it till the leather is crispy. Eek!
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David Huggins




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PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2007 11:41 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Kel Rekuta wrote:
David Huggins wrote:
Hi,

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it but I was told that cuir boulli was produced by boiling in oil, speciffically fish oil. It was an old friend ,Mark Beaby, who is the leather artisan at the Royal Armouries Leeds who told me this.

I would recommend that you get a copy of 'Leather & the Warrior' by J.Waterer, still available online from Caliver Books here in the U.K.

Vegatable tanned leather is still available from various leather craft suppliers and re-enactor traders.

Best

Dave


I think you may have confused what Mark told you. Buff leather is treated with fish oil. Boiling vegetable tanned leather in oil turns it into blackened twisted crispy bacon. The boiling point for oil is much higher than that for water.

Thanks for the tip on the republication of Leather and the Warrior. Got a link handy? I only have a photocopy.

Cheers!
Now that you mention it the buff leather jolts a memeory in my aging faculties. Try the link www.caliverbooks.com and in the sites search engine type in Leather & the Warrior, just checked and they have a few mint copies...the site is quite good for general ancient medieval military titles.Always thought Mark's beacon tasted fishy!!
and he who stands and sheds blood with us, shall be as a brother.
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Bram Verbeek





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PostPosted: Mon 03 Sep, 2007 6:59 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

A quick way to see if the leather is chrome tanned, is to put it in a microwave, chrome will have the same effect as gold linings on cups, so the difference is very obvious. Now if I only knew that before I cut over 1200 scales and put holes in them...
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Al Muckart




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PostPosted: Tue 04 Sep, 2007 3:33 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Bram Verbeek wrote:
A quick way to see if the leather is chrome tanned, is to put it in a microwave, chrome will have the same effect as gold linings on cups, so the difference is very obvious. Now if I only knew that before I cut over 1200 scales and put holes in them...


Interesting idea. I'll have to try that. I wouldn't have thought it would make a difference since the chromium used in chrome tanning is crhomium salts and not metal as such.

The only really good way I've ever heard of telling the difference between chrome and vegetable tanned leather is to burn it. Veg tan will smell more like burning hair and leave a black ash, chrome tanned will smell bad and leave a grey ash.

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Brian Robson





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PostPosted: Wed 05 Sep, 2007 5:09 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi,

I think we need to be careful in discarding certain methods of treating the leather based on its resistance to cutting. In all case I am aware of, leather was worn in addition to mail - and it seems to me that it is there to make up for the shortcomings of mail.

Mail is very good at resisting cuts and thrusts, but not very protective against impacts. Hardened, moulded leather gives very good protection against blunt impacts (I know this from doing live steel re-enactment) - and by the sounds of it is not so good vs cuts/thrusts.

It would appear to me that a mix of mail and hardened leather would give very good all-round protection (even if the leather may be a bit shredded by the end of the battle!).

Thanks,
Brian
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Al Muckart




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PostPosted: Fri 07 Sep, 2007 3:46 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Brian,

Brian Robson wrote:
I think we need to be careful in discarding certain methods of treating the leather based on its resistance to cutting. In all case I am aware of, leather was worn in addition to mail - and it seems to me that it is there to make up for the shortcomings of mail.

Mail is very good at resisting cuts and thrusts, but not very protective against impacts. Hardened, moulded leather gives very good protection against blunt impacts (I know this from doing live steel re-enactment) - and by the sounds of it is not so good vs cuts/thrusts.


We also need to be careful about making assumptions about the performance of medieval materials, treated with medieval technology and used under medieval combat conditions based on the performance of their modern counterparts under reenactment combat conditions Wink

You are right that mail doesn't offer any sort of protection from impacts, but that on its own doesn't amount to evidence that they actually used anything over it, or what the things they did use over it were made from. A lot of period armour, particularly when considered alongside what we know of period paddings offers very little that the modern mind would think of as effective protection, but people used what they could within the financial and technical limits imposed on them, and armour doesn't have to be good, it just has to bet better than no armour.

Ignoring the fact that treating leather with wax makes it easier, not harder, to cut I still find the idea of wax-hardened leather used in medieval armour to be extremely unlikely. The reasons for this come back to medieval technlology and economics. Labour was cheap but materials were very, very expensive by modern standards.

Aside from the expense of the leather, we also have to consider the expense and availability of waxes with which to harden the leather. Obviously they didn't have paraffin wax, they had beeswax which was itself very expensive -- regular folk used tallow, not wax, for candles -- pitch (which is a different substance from the rosin that is frequently sold as 'pitch' these days), and tallow.

Now, you can harden leather with decent hard pitch quite effectively for some purposes, as they did in the late medieval period with black jacks in England, and as they did post-period with things like cartridge cases and even some helmets in the 17th century. The question remains though, in the medieval period, why you would bother with expensive messy wax concoctions when water is near enough to free and results in a hardened leather that just makes better armour than wax hardened leather does.

Water hardening leather requires skill, but labour was cheap and developing such skills is what apprenticeships are for. Water hardened leather is superior, for armour, to wax hardened leather in almost all ways you can think of. It can be made stiffer, less brittle, more cut-resistant, and more heat-resistant than wax hardened leather. Even the hardest pitch/wax treated leathers go all manky and floppy when exposed to direct sunlight for too long. People bring up the idea of "oil hardened" leather from time to time too, but as far as I've been able to work out that doesn't actually work on vegetable tanned leather, and it suffers from the same economic problems as the ideas of wax hardened leather.

Ultimately we have no evidence either way, at least none that I'm aware of, and far too little in the way of surviving leather armour to make any kind of assumptions, so we have to come back to the practical and technical considerations of the available period materials and technology. To my mind the materials and technologies present no evidence that wax hardened leather is anything more than a modern re-enactorism. In my experience (and I'm not referring to anyone in particular) people just don't like the idea of water hardened leather armour because it's more difficult to make.

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Steven H




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PostPosted: Fri 07 Sep, 2007 7:04 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Al-

You make several good points. But you neglect to mention glue-hardening techniques. Are you familiar with these?

-Steven

Kunstbruder - Boston area Historical Combat Study
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