Frontierman's Knife from Generation 2
Here are some picks below. Looking for feedback.

Blade 10" long, 1/"4" wide, 3/16" thick. Overall 14 1/2"

Edge sharp.

Clyde


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Ip-133.jpg


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Ip-133a.jpg

How's the tang? Is that Pommel Nut screwed in or peened?
I'm pretty sure that's the Windlass Steelcrafts weapon sold by Atlanta Cutlery as a "Rifleman's Knife" :

http://www.atlantacutlery.com/webstore/eCat/s...knife.aspx

I like the overall look and design of this weapon, though the tacks strike me as a bit, uh, tacky.

I think it looks right at home among the side knives of the late 18th/early 19th c.

Since it's Windlass, the blade should be good quality, with a stout tang. Since it's a simple, peened design, it should be pretty solidly constructed as well. I'd remove the tacks and spray vinegar on the steel of blade and hilt to get rid of the bright polish. Then it'd be a very attractive knife. I'd be proud to own one, but the AC price seems a bit steep. I'd consider it at $50.


Last edited by Sean Flynt on Fri 29 Sep, 2006 12:31 pm; edited 2 times in total
Bryce Felperin wrote:
How's the tang? Is that Pommel Nut screwed in or peened?


No the pommel is not nut screwed as you can see in the bottom picture.
The tang is peened over top of the pommel.

Thank you,

Clyde
Clyde, is that a Windlass or a Generation 2 weapon? Why do they look the same?
Sean Flynt wrote:
I'm pretty sure that's the Windlass Steelcrafts weapon sold by Atlanta Cutlery as a "Rifleman's Knife" :

http://www.atlantacutlery.com/webstore/eCat/s...knife.aspx

I like the overall look and design of this weapon, though the tacks strike me as a bit, uh, tacky.

I think it looks right at home among the side knives of the late 18th/early 19th c.

Since it's Windlass, the blade should be good quality, with a stout tang. Since it's a simple, peened design, it should be pretty solidly constructed as well. I'd remove the tacks and spray vinegar on the steel of blade and hilt to get rid of the bright polish. Then it'd be a very attractive knife. I'd be proud to own one, but the AC price seems a bit steep. I'd consider it at $50.


Windlass may make one but this one you are seeing is made by us (Generation 2).
It has a full wide tang and is peened over the pommel.
Fully tempered blade that does come sharp and ready to be used as a functional tool.

Clyde Hollis
Clyde Hollis wrote:
Windlass may make one but this one you are seeing is made by us (Generation 2).
It has a full wide tang and is peened over the pommel.
Fully tempered blade that does come sharp and ready to be used as a functional tool.


So weird that they look so similar. I'd hope that the factory isn't doing something behind your back. It's been known to happen to others before :)

Are they based on the same original? If so, I'd love to see photos of the original/antique.

What is your price point on this item?
Nathan Robinson wrote:
Clyde, is that a Windlass or a Generation 2 weapon? Why do they look the same?


Wwe were asked by many early American re-enactors to make this style of knife because Windlass did a poor job and theirs did not come sharpened. Even when sharpened they said it would not hold an edge.

No ours if a flat ground edge just like the Bowie knives we did, so that it is a useable field tool hunting, trapping or fishing or even cutting a big steak! :D

Hope this helps answers most of the questions.

Now, with all this information what do you think?

Clyde
Nathan Robinson wrote:
Clyde Hollis wrote:
Windlass may make one but this one you are seeing is made by us (Generation 2).
It has a full wide tang and is peened over the pommel.
Fully tempered blade that does come sharp and ready to be used as a functional tool.


So weird that they look so similar. I'd hope that the factory isn't doing something behind your back. It's been known to happen to others before :)

Are they based on the same original? If so, I'd love to see photos of the original/antique.

What is your price point on this item?



Oops,
Price is $99.00

Thanks Nathan,

Clyde
I figured the slight differences between this piece and the one sold by AC were just what one sometimes sees between catalog shots and production. I, too, would like to see the original weapon on which both pieces appear to be based.
I don't have a huge opinion one way or another about this sort of thing, but could I suggest posting it over at bladeforums as well? I suspect you would get a lot of reaction for something of this nature there.
It is a knife that I believe is roughly based off the Searles/Fowler Bowie and the Stafford/Searles Bowie knives.

Clyde


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Searles/Fowler Bowie

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stafford.jpg
Stafford/Searles Bowie
Overall, I like it. I commend you on listening to customer feedback and taking your model to a level that attempts to fix the problems on the other maker's model. I'm not crazy about the bare wood grip and would prefer a covering, personally. Overall, I think it works well.
Looks very nice for the price and it does look like a variant of the Searles Bowie or at least something plausibly contemporary to it.

If it takes a good sharp edge I'm assuming at least 50 r.c. in hardness and maybe around 56 r.c. ?

I'm fairly sure finding " Generation 2 " contact information is easy if one tries ( Haven't tried yet. ) But it might be a good idea to add the web site in your next reply. ;) ( Never a bad idea making it as easy as possible for people to find you if they want to buy or check out what else you make. :D )
Jean Thibodeau wrote:
I'm fairly sure finding " Generation 2 " contact information is easy if one tries ( Haven't tried yet. ) But it might be a good idea to add the web site in your next reply. ;) ( Never a bad idea making it as easy as possible for people to find you if they want to buy or check out what else you make. :D )

Hey, Jean, chalk this up to another nifty forum feature. Under each post is "contact information" for that user. Clyde has entered his Web-site into his profile and it can be accessed by clicking on the buttom: [ Linked Image ]. As you suggest, adding the link to the signature is helpful, too.
Jean Thibodeau wrote:
Looks very nice for the price and it does look like a variant of the Searles Bowie or at least something plausibly contemporary to it.

If it takes a good sharp edge I'm assuming at least 50 r.c. in hardness and maybe around 56 r.c. ?

I'm fairly sure finding " Generation 2 " contact information is easy if one tries ( Haven't tried yet. ) But it might be a good idea to add the web site in your next reply. ;) ( Never a bad idea making it as easy as possible for people to find you if they want to buy or check out what else you make. :D )


I will once I have the web page for it complete.

The RC factor on the edge on our knives usually run around 54 to 55. Sometimes it does go as high as 56.

On our katanas we try to run 58 to 59 but never over 60.

We do not have the high tech furnace.:D
It is all done old school.:D

I will also post another Bowie Knife we are doing as soon as I get the pictures taken to see what everyone thinks.

Clyde
Overall I like the knife you are offering. One thing I'd like to see different, however, is the location of the grip in relation to the blade. Your knife's grip is placed in the center of the blade width. On both of the original knives the grip is placed closer to the back edge of the blade. Many other knives of this era that I've seen have the grip placed high along the back edge as well. This was obviously a common design element of real period knives that I don't often see in reproductions. I gives a very different overall look to the piece as well as allowing more knuckle room when bearing down on a flat surface (kind of like a chefs knife). I'd also like to see a bit thinner guard but that's really quibbling.
Frontierman's Knife from Gen2 is in
OK, I said I would post the link for this knife once I have built the webpage.
Well it is up and the knife is in stock.

Here is the link:

http://www.imperialweapons.com/knives/Ip-133.html

Clyde Hollis
Imperial Weapons
Looks great, Clyde.

When do we get to see the new Bowie?
That is a nice looking blade. I particularly like the double fullers. The grip is ok, but I would prefer one similar to those shown on the antique Searles Bowies.

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