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Chad Sonderberg




Location: Muscatine, IA, USA
Joined: 26 May 2005
Reading list: 6 books

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Mon 12 Jun, 2006 7:53 am    Post subject: Attaching a Spearhead         Reply with quote

I've searched around (both on this forum and by Google) for explainations on "How to attach a spearhead", but I've found next to nothing. What I'm looking for is how to attach a spearhead in the style common within the 15th century, although anything is better than nothing.
A.C.S.

Lebend mit Ehre, Sterben Sie mit Dignität.
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Sean Flynt




Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Joined: 21 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Mon 12 Jun, 2006 9:07 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Scroll down to the photos, especially the "unfinished" shot.

http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t...p;start=20

First, go to Lowes, Home Depot, etc. and spend some time finding a straight 6' poplar dowel (sight down its length like it's a rifle barrel). While you're at the store, get a Stanley Surform tool. You want the small one. This tool is a cross between a block plane and cheese grater. It makes wood go away in a big hurry. Wonderful tool!

You can mount the head one of two ways. The easiest, but also the least attractive, IMO, is simply to shave down the end of the haft to fit the inside of the socket, then insert the haft and thrust the spear hard against a stump.

The nicer way, which reduces or eliminates the "step" between haft and socket, involves first measuring the inside of the socket. Then apply that measure to the haft and mark the place where the edge of the socket will rest. Draw a line around the haft at this point and use a craft knife to cut straight down all along the line exactly as deep as the wall of the socket. Working from the direction of the head of the haft toward the foot,cut down at an angle toward the bottom of that first cut. The socket will rest on this shoulder. Now simply shape the haft above this notch to match the inside of the socket. As you work, occaisionally stop and try to get the head onto the shaft. Anywhere the head binds, you'll see a black mark. Simply shave down those marks and re-fit, repeating until the head slides (tightly) down almost to the shoulder. When you get to that point, thrust the spear into a stump. That should seat the socket edge against the shoulder and give you almost a flush surface between socket and haft.

I always rivet the head in place using either one or two rivets, depending on the length of the socket. This is easily done.
Once the head is in place, drill all the way through the socket and haft with a metal bit. Insert standard bright nail and clip off the sharp end approx. .25" above surface of socket. Rest head of nail on anvil or head of sledgehammer and peen the cut end.

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Chad Sonderberg




Location: Muscatine, IA, USA
Joined: 26 May 2005
Reading list: 6 books

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Mon 12 Jun, 2006 9:25 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I wonder why that thread never showed up during my searches? Confused *shrugs*

Anyway, thanks! I figured it would be along those lines, but I wanted to check and make sure there wasn't any particular guidelines and such that I needed to cover. Thanks again! Big Grin

A.C.S.

Lebend mit Ehre, Sterben Sie mit Dignität.
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Sean Flynt




Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Joined: 21 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Mon 12 Jun, 2006 9:31 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Here's a very rough diagram showing the three main stages of my method, in case the text isn't clear.


 Attachment: 8.74 KB
haft.jpg


-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Chad Sonderberg




Location: Muscatine, IA, USA
Joined: 26 May 2005
Reading list: 6 books

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Mon 12 Jun, 2006 11:17 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I thought that was what you were getting at, but the images definately makes it clear. I'm waiting on the order, but I'll post pictures once I get it finished. I haven't ordered a butt cap for it yet, but I assume it would go on the same way, right?
A.C.S.

Lebend mit Ehre, Sterben Sie mit Dignität.
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Sean Flynt




Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Joined: 21 Aug 2003
Likes: 10 pages
Reading list: 13 books

Spotlight topics: 7
Posts: 5,981

PostPosted: Mon 12 Jun, 2006 11:43 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Chad Sonderberg wrote:
I haven't ordered a butt cap for it yet, but I assume it would go on the same way, right?


It would, but you might not need it. Check out illustrations from Froissart's Chronicles. IIRC, few of the polearms have buttcaps, and I've rarely seen buttcaps on 15th c. polearms in museum collections (although many hafts have been replaced). To protect the ends of my polearms, I sometimes just drive a single domed steel tack into the end. That keeps the wood off the ground.

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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David Martin




Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Joined: 11 Apr 2005

Posts: 165

PostPosted: Mon 12 Jun, 2006 11:59 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thank you, Sean, for this information. I have a MRL Viking Hewing Spearhead that I'm going to mount to a 6' Hickory shaft I picked up from Purpleheart Armory. Your post gave me a better way of mounting the head than what I had planned.

The domed steel tack is a great idea as well. I picked up a MRL Greek Buttcap/spike, but after hefting the piece, I've had second thoughts about actually using it. The steel tack sounds eminently more practical.
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