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Jared Smith
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Posted: Sat 08 Apr, 2006 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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I have lost the link now, but had come across a "medieval clothing" article which showed a Renaissance period portrait of a seamstress who was making a gambeson. The reason I remember it so clearly, is that the folds of wool were not quilted like a typical blanket. The wool batting appeared to be body length strips which were trapped as vertical "ribs" that stood out from the wearer's body. There were other types of construction, but this particular one would seem likely to enable a thick padding effect, while leaving some air space and ventilation between the ribs and armour.
The type of article was similar to this one; http://www.virtue.to/articles/extant.html
Check out the pourpoint near the bottom of the page. It was reportedly filled with cotton originally.
Absence of evidence is not necessarily evidence of absence!
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Jared Smith
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Sun 09 Apr, 2006 7:15 am Post subject: |
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Thanks very much for these posts! I think that cotton was rather expensive-even raw.These clothes were made for nobles-princes and kings-they coud afford it.I think that for a soldier,even officer wool coud be easier to use...
Quote: | BTW I am the dead guy with the maille and jack in Gordon's photo, my jack is 15 layers of linen. I hand quilted it because a machine just can't do that plus it is not correct for a living history garment to have machined stitching. A needle used by hand can pass through 15 layers without and issue. |
That was very nice gallery.I gave it for my begginer friends as a pattern of good equipment.You are doing a great job!
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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Elling Polden
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Posted: Sun 09 Apr, 2006 7:23 am Post subject: |
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Cotton was only grown around the Mediterranean. Thus, linnen would be much simpler to get in north-western europe, while in the south cotton would be a realistic alternative.
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Mon 10 Apr, 2006 3:50 am Post subject: |
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After watching gallerys on http://www.lordgreys.org I can see that people who are using pauldrons truly dont have heavy padded shoulders.... Does anybody have pictures of already mentioned arming doublets 15century from Swedish museum?
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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James Barker
Location: Ashburn VA Joined: 20 Apr 2005
Posts: 365
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Posted: Mon 10 Apr, 2006 6:35 am Post subject: |
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Jared Smith wrote: | http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/garments/blackprince/blackprince.html
This shows one made with wool. |
That is the same Black Prince garment Janet Arnold wrote about, there is no wool involved, it is raw cotton a.k.a. cotton wool.
Michal Plezia wrote: | Thanks very much for these posts! I think that cotton was rather expensive-even raw.These clothes were made for nobles-princes and kings-they coud afford it.I think that for a soldier,even officer wool coud be easier to use... |
In The Armourer and His Craft : From the XIth to the XVIth Century by Charles Ffoulkes there are several ordinances and translated orders for padded cloth armors from 12th to the 15th century. One is for gambesons for troops with silk exteriors and cotton stuffing. Also the Jacks I mentioned in my last post are stuffed with raw cotton and those are a garment for grooms in a retinue or levied townsmen not upper class men.
The cotton trade is a bit of a mystery in the middle ages but we know it was grown in many place especially France and Italy, but there is a big difference in raw cotton and cotton fabric. Cotton fabric was used by the poor in Italy in the 15th century but was expensive in other nations because it was not grown there and had to be imported. I believe the real reason cotton was not used so much for fabric is the fact it rips much easier than linen do to the fiber lengths. Long cotton makes a 6 inch fiber and flax linen is a 6 foot fiber. This means linen has less places the material is pieced together in the spinning and weaving process.
Michal Plezia wrote: | That was very nice gallery.I gave it for my begginer friends as a pattern of good equipment.You are doing a great job! |
Thanks
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Mon 10 Apr, 2006 6:59 am Post subject: |
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Hmm cotton was at first strange to me because I read that till the invention of the cotton gin(or whatever it is called) the cotton was very expensive and only aristocracy could afford it.But of course author could be wrong..
So for an italian soldier cotton wool would be the most apropriate....looking for cotton than
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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James Barker
Location: Ashburn VA Joined: 20 Apr 2005
Posts: 365
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Posted: Mon 10 Apr, 2006 7:34 am Post subject: |
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Italian Cotton Industry in the latter middle ages 1100-1600 is useful for those interested in the cotton trade of the middle ages.
Michal I think a soldier would prefer a linen shirt over a cheap cheap cotton shirt. The cotton used in Italian peasants clothing was the left over junk. Fine cotton cloth was used for curtains, sheets, and towels. Fustian was a material made of flax linen running one way and cotton the other in the fabric, it was used for table linens, napkins, and arming doublet outer layers.
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Mon 10 Apr, 2006 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Sorry I wasn't accurate-I mean not simple soldier-rather officer.
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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Valeriy Rog
Location: Ukraine, Kyiv Joined: 30 Sep 2005
Posts: 23
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Posted: Wed 12 Apr, 2006 5:32 am Post subject: |
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Reading the topic was informative and interesting. As I was going to make armind doublet and jack I must say I discovered some new things thanks to you.
I just would like to share what I think about the subject:
af far as I know the arming doublet is made the same way as the civil doublet (I mean the patterns) but it is padded and serves to hold the armour on with the lacings.
http://alliance.medieval.ru/papers/jacks/arming1475.jpg
http://alliance.medieval.ru/papers/jacks/arming1475-2.jpg
Sometimes there where mail patterns as on Mr. W. R. Reynolds' one. But in this case It was supposed to be worn only under the plate armour. For the mid 15 cent. infantry the arming doublet held arms and legs protection and the body was protected with jack.
The 25-30 layers were only under the Ordinances of Louis XI of France (1461-1483). Before that the quantity of layers where not specified (if I'm not mistaken).
The patterns for jack usually where made on the base of that very civil doublet (see "The Medieval Tailor's Assistant")
There where differen types of padding - square, rhomb, horizontal or vertical. http://alliance.medieval.ru/papers/jacks/15theffigy.jpg
Sometimes the jacks where strengthened with leather, metal or baleen pieces or where worn under breast plate http://alliance.medieval.ru/papers/jacks/36ursu05.jpg (left one)
As for the Charles the VI cote armor (jupon) http://alliance.medieval.ru/papers/jacks/pourpoint.jpg I think it served more like a armour protection than the combatant protection
By the way, the jacks could be also worn on the mail, but those who don't like heave weights could wear only mail "skirt"
Everything abovewritten is my IMHO and I mus say quite of amateur level though I do my best to develop %)
Attachment: 47.54 KB
1470-90 Flandria
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James Barker
Location: Ashburn VA Joined: 20 Apr 2005
Posts: 365
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Posted: Wed 12 Apr, 2006 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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Valeriy
Those first 2 images are amazing, can you tell who the artist is or what the country of origin is? I have been looking for good quality images of arming doublets from the 1460s to1470s for a while now.
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Wed 12 Apr, 2006 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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Wonderful images!
I wonder how armour legs were attached?To arming doublet or to the belt? Any pictures?
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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Valeriy Rog
Location: Ukraine, Kyiv Joined: 30 Sep 2005
Posts: 23
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Posted: Thu 13 Apr, 2006 12:04 am Post subject: |
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James Barker wrote: | Valeriy
Those first 2 images are amazing, can you tell who the artist is or what the country of origin is? I have been looking for good quality images of arming doublets from the 1460s to1470s for a while now. |
These are the 1475, Flandria. Notice the mail patterns on the places of lacing points.
Michal Plezia wrote: | I wonder how armour legs were attached?To arming doublet or to the belt? Any pictures? |
Of cource they were attached to the arming doublet or pourpoint. The belt is not historically proved and extremely uncomfortable. I used to wear on belt but quickly changed to pourpoint. When the garment if cllosely fit to body, you don't even feel the weight of the armour legs
There are many pictures, where it is seen the laces on the dottom part of the AD for the Armour legs.
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Thu 13 Apr, 2006 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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James Barker wrote: | The belt is not historically proved and extremely uncomfortable. I used to wear on belt but quickly changed to pourpoint. When the garment if cllosely fit to body, you don't even feel the weight of the armour legs
There are many pictures, where it is seen the laces on the dottom part of the AD for the Armour legs.
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Thanks.That is exactly what I have thought.For me belt was also uncomfortable.Have you got any other pics of legs attachment?
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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Valeriy Rog
Location: Ukraine, Kyiv Joined: 30 Sep 2005
Posts: 23
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Posted: Thu 13 Apr, 2006 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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This one I could find instantly, the others have to search for some time
1450, England. As you can see the servant hels the knight to lace the legs
if you need more proves (I beleive you don't ) i'll try to find more. In general the lacings are good also for holding the arms (i've met people wore the arms also on the belts ) and poildrons (not for the full plate).
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Mon 11 Dec, 2006 10:07 am Post subject: |
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I have a favour to ask of you for close-up pictures of attachments for maile skirt,maile parts under arms and detailed photo of your mail collar and how is it all attached to the arming doublet in the middle XV.I have started a process of buying one and I have to know as much as possible.And always it is better to see it on someones working reproduction.
Especially for construction of collar I have more questions than answers...
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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James Barker
Location: Ashburn VA Joined: 20 Apr 2005
Posts: 365
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Posted: Mon 11 Dec, 2006 11:14 am Post subject: |
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Michal
The guys in our group attached the voiders (maille arms) with intergrated collar to his doublet by sewing it on with hemp. They have standards (stand alone collar) which do not attach to anything, they buckle around the neck. The skirt is pointed on in a few places around the arming doublet.
James Barker
Historic Life http://www.historiclife.com/index.html
Archer in La Belle Compagnie http://www.labelle.org/
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Mon 11 Dec, 2006 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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Forgive my ignorance but how that stand alone collars look like?
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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James Barker
Location: Ashburn VA Joined: 20 Apr 2005
Posts: 365
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Michal Plezia
Industry Professional
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Posted: Wed 13 Dec, 2006 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks a lot James! You really helped me!
www.elchon.com
Polish Guild of Knifemakers
The sword is a weapon for killing, the art of the sword is the art of killing. No matter what fancy words you use or what titles you put to
it that is the only truth.
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