[Jeff Hsieh]

Hello,

I'd like to put together a 13th century Outremer military outfit, as authentic as I can make it. Logically, it seems like the best place to start is with undergarments, not armor and weapons. Right now I'm looking for a pattern for a linen undertunic, in the time period 1260-1280 AD. I would appreciate any other clothing patterns from this time as well (surcoats, etc.).

Thanks!

[Roger Hooper]

Maybe you can use some of the patterns available here -- http://www.renstore.com/items.asp?CartId={290...REN%2DPTRN

[Chuck Russell]

i'll have to check my outreemer books tonight. cant remembr what they wear but its not much differen than a tunic w/ brais and chausis correct?

period patterns listed on teh chiv sports page are not for the beginner.

now if im right: http://www.larp.com/midgard/mbcs.htm would be more suited to what you are looking for. i will check tonight to be sure

[Elling Polden]

Here's a selection of undertunics from archeological finds and conserved garments.
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/shirts.html
How to make the thing:
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/beginners/StLouis.html

The St.Louis shirt is simple and functional, and from your selected period.
Since you are in the mediteranian region, you could actually use cotton; this is not used in northern europe.
the undertunic should not be longer than mid thigh. It is not supposed to show when worn under the tunic.
Make the opening for the head as small as posible. it should only be as wide as your neck; then make slitts down the front and back, just long enough that you can get the thing over your head.


Further more, you will need;
Braie/breeches (Linnen or cotton)
Hose (wool)
Tunic (wool)
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html
http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html

Historically, you won't need the surcote until you've got a mail coat; unarmoured foot soldier did not wear them.
It is made in the same way as the tunic, but without arms...

Anyway, give a word if you need any more help.

[Jeff Hsieh]

Thanks for the replies! Just a few questions:

Elling, do you have a pattern reference for the legwear?

Also, what should I look for in "medieval" fabric? Would something like this be glaringly wrong?
http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-...taupe.aspx

[Elling Polden]

Looks good, for the shirt and breeches.

Ideally, you want some fancy weave I don't remeber the name of, but it's not very important.
Try to get pure wool or linen if you can; not because it's historical, but because it breaths better and itches less.

As for colour; brown, light greens, reds (of the burgundy-ish kind) and light blues are kewl. Try to avoid colours that are to bright. Bottle green and the like are out.
(the hose can also be made of black leather.... )

Hose are very simple to make. I dont have any links to english sites on the subject; but heres one in danish... It has the basic pattern.

http://www.laivforum.dk/article.php?cid=357

In short;
(this design includes a heel, wich the one in the danish page does not...)
1: measure the length of you leg, from the sole to the belt. A a little bit. This is the height of you hose.
2: Then measure the length from your belt to the middle of your thigh.
3: Measure the witdth of your thigh Add a bit for safe measure; This is the broadest part of the pattern
4: Measure the distance from mid thigh to the knee. Measure the diameter of your knee, when bent.
5: Measure the AROUND THE BROADEST PART OF YOUR HEEL: this so that yo can actually get your foot in and out of the hose.
6: needle along the line.
7:Try the thing on. If it rougly fits, cut out.
8: adjust with needles, so that it is as tight as possible (on the lower leg), while you can still get the thing off. Needle along the underside of the foot, so that it fits snugly.
9: Stich along the new line.
10 Fold down and stich the edges.

You have Hose.
Get another one and you will be on your way to be real pimp...

[Jeff Hsieh]

Thanks for all the help guys!