"Appleseed", thats the thing i forgot to mention and left out of my illustration.
:blush:
Thank you gentlemen.
So the idea of an appleseed edge,that I brought up,seems to be a good solution for the Del Tin. Altough the appleseed edge is more like a real appleseed than in the drawing of Björn(look at the sharpening topic on ISF).
I think in theory the relative flat edge on the Del Tin could be shaped in a perfect appleseed .
But than : how to do the thing technicaly. And how did the do the job in the old days, without belt grinders etc.
Today the appleseed edge( I think ) could be attainable by carefully using the slack in a belt grinder and arkansas . In the old days they performed the appleseed edge (again I think ) by using a file or / and stones.
Does anyones has got an idea? Come up your specialists to the field!
I think in theory the relative flat edge on the Del Tin could be shaped in a perfect appleseed .
But than : how to do the thing technicaly. And how did the do the job in the old days, without belt grinders etc.
Today the appleseed edge( I think ) could be attainable by carefully using the slack in a belt grinder and arkansas . In the old days they performed the appleseed edge (again I think ) by using a file or / and stones.
Does anyones has got an idea? Come up your specialists to the field!
Pretty heavy stone there! How about the perfect blade geometry related to edges on the historical blades , considering the use of such rough tools?
| Cor Böhms wrote: |
| Pretty heavy stone there! How about the perfect blade geometry related to edges on the historical blades , considering the use of such rough tools? |
There were different sizes of grinding and polishing wheels, but just because a wheel is big, it doesn't mean it is rough - a large wheel can give the grinder better control.
Hi guys. Forgive me if I'm flogging a dead horse here, but I'm afraid I'm actually learning something ;)
Based on the drawings, this means that if you started filing/removing metal from the central fuller all the way out to the edge, you'd have the proper geometry for a sharp, right? But the you might lose enough metal to change the handling characteristics. . . and I can definitely see where that would be labor intensive :eek:
Based on the drawings, this means that if you started filing/removing metal from the central fuller all the way out to the edge, you'd have the proper geometry for a sharp, right? But the you might lose enough metal to change the handling characteristics. . . and I can definitely see where that would be labor intensive :eek:
| Josh Aldous wrote: |
| Hi guys. Forgive me if I'm flogging a dead horse here, but I'm afraid I'm actually learning something ;)
Based on the drawings, this means that if you started filing/removing metal from the central fuller all the way out to the edge, you'd have the proper geometry for a sharp, right? But the you might lose enough metal to change the handling characteristics. . . and I can definitely see where that would be labor intensive :eek: |
Nope, not all the way from the fuller. I've made a (hopefully) clearer illustration about the principle of an "appleseed" edge. The thing is to leave enough metal behind the edge to support it.
Attachment: 9.62 KB
Growing up my parents bought a foot powered brinding wheel on an iron frame from a local blacksmiths estate sale. Not sure why they got it, and not sure they still have it, but it worked well and was easy to control if memory serves. Partly because the speed was fairly low.
| Björn Hellqvist wrote: |
| Nope, not all the way from the fuller. I've made a (hopefully) clearer illustration about the principle of an "appleseed" edge. The thing is to leave enough metal behind the edge to support it. |
Got it now. Thanks, Björn!
Currently, Albion Armory sells Del Tin swords, and charges $25.00 for a sharpening. Does anyone know if they sharpen their Del Tin's to the historical, "appleseed" type edge? I'll send them an email, but if someone has any experience with Del Tin's from Albion, I'd appreciate the information.
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