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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Fri 25 Mar, 2005 8:35 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Stephen A. Fisher wrote:
Hey Howy,

Great stuff as always! I'm particularly excited about the smallsword. Could you give me some information on The Angelo when you can spare the time? (blade cross section,overall length, etc.)

By looking at the picture, it looks to based upon some mid to late 17th smallswords. Which is good, because it will be great for working on earlier smallsword works such as de Liancour, Elder, & Hope.

Regards,
Stephen


Hey Stephen,

I am glad to hear your interest in the small sword.
The hilt is indeed of a style that had its greatest popularity in the mid to late 17th C. The style does continue on, however, even if it becomes less common.
The blade will probably have a diamond section, but possibly triangular if heat treating allowes such a refinement. Experiments are being conducted for heat treat of these sparring swords as I write this. Regardless of cross section, the small sword will have a stiff and sturdy forte and a flexible foible. There will be some sort of blunted end to take a button for safe sparring. The exact shape of the safe point is not yet decided. It can be a small "club" or a flat "nail head". Blade length will probably be around 80 cm, as that seems to be pretty standard for originals of this period: not too short and not too long. I would be interested to hear if there are other priorities among practitioners, though. If there is a preference for a blade that would be slightly longer or shorter than the general norm, I would be interested to know about it and adjust the design accordingly.
There will be two kidney shaped plates in front of the quillon block.

The rapier blade will feature the same basic elements: a thick and sturdy forte and an agile and flexible point, both for safety in sparring but also to keep the blade as agile and exact in handling as would a sharp original. Since you need to include a button at the end you need to take that extra mass (as compared to a sharp point) into account when shaping a blunt.
I will strive to eliminate any tendency of "whippyness" while maintaining the flexibility of the point.

The philosophy of these sparring blades is that they shall handle the same as a sharp original but at the same time be safe for use in training.
As a sharp sword is made to be lethal and a sparring sword must first of all be safe, two completely different apporaches are followed in the deisgn.
The flexibility of the point section of a thrusting sword intended for sparring need to be greater than it would be on a sharp weapon. The body of the blade and the forte still need to have the stiffness you would find on a sharp weapon as the sparring sword otherwise would be wobbly and lack vital handling charactersitics in swordplay.
These two opposites: a stiff base and a safe flexible point section will be balanced in these sparring blades.

In weight and distribution of mass the sparring swords will be following the example of originals I have handeled and documented or otherwise have data for. This means the sparring line will build on the same body of research as the museum line and the next gen line.

In style the hilts of the sparring swords will be very close to historical originals. Pommels and gards are modeled according to specific historical styles. This is both an aesthetic and functional aspect of the design. There are reasons why hilts looked the way they did, why pommels and guards had their specific shapes. This will be reflected in the design.
The principle of construction, the way these swords are mounted, is developed to allow for greatest possible strength and durability. The finish of the sparring line will be close to that of the present Squire Line. The sparring swords will be built to take years of intensive use.

More details regarding construction or specific dimensions will follow as the swords are reaching completion.
I am always interested to hear about your preferences as to dimensions, handling characterstics or any other aspects.

Thanks Happy
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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Fri 25 Mar, 2005 8:56 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Howard Waddell wrote:
Bill Grandy wrote:
Will that one be a ambidextrous rapier hilt?


Hey Bill!

Yes, we kept the hilt simple for that reason, as well as ease in manufacturing and to keep the price down.

Best,

howy


Yes,
the rapier hilt will most probably be made in a style that allowes the same guards on outside and inside of the hilt. This is not the most common solution on hisiorical swords, but in this instance it would seem to be a good idea to allow for both right handed and lefthanded practitioners using the same sword. It will aso help keeping production costs down, as Howy mentioned. I would think that is a good thing. Wink Happy

In my concept sketch this aspect was not taken into account, therefore you can see an inner guard that differs from the front. Please disregrad that detail.
I cannot yet say if the forward ring will have a pierced plate or not. This remains to be seen depending on production methods used.
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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Fri 25 Mar, 2005 9:32 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Joachim Nilsson wrote:
I've finally been able to properly digest the news of the new line. Big Grin Two things popped up in my mind:

The Mair -will it have the same characteristics as its historical equalient; the federschwert?

The name of the above mentioned sword -which one is it? Mair or Meyer? Those are two different fencing masters. Razz

Best regards,


Hey Joachim,
The historical sparring sword is based on illustrations as much as measurements of a few surviving originals. Very few originals have survived. These originals have one feature in common: they are pretty whippy. I do not think that is an aspect I would like to include in the Albion version. I am not even convinced all originals were that flexible or whippy.
There are several reasons for this.
To my understanding "federshwerter" were used in sparring but also in competitions where you strived to hit you opponent in the head to inflict a bleeding wound. I think the severe flexibility of these surviving swords were inetended to help in that function. They might even have been made specifically for competition rather than training? Guessing here.

Regardless of that, the modern use would rather be to simualte an actual sharp sword as closely as possible in reagards to handling and function in swordplay, not to faciliate bleeding head wounds. The overall shape of the fencing swords allow for a great deal of rugged sturdiness and safety. The design allowes for a distibution of mass that comes very close to that of a sharp sword.
Many illustrations of these swords in manuals (for example in both Meyer and Mair) show that they could be made with both midribs and fullers. The surviving exmples do not feature these details but are flat rectangular in section, something we should take note of. This tells us that there could be swords of this type that were made to have different charactersitics than the surviving examples. I would not be surpriced if some were quite flexible, while others were more stiff.

When designing the longswords (both the historical training sword, the Mair, and its brother, the Liechtenauer) I will strive to make the point section flexible enought that it might actually allow for some thrusting if used with some care. They cannot be a flexible as the rapier and the small sword- but some degree of flexibility is possible. With the right safety equipment it should be possible to simulate some of the thrusting techniques in regular sparring. Not at full force perhaps, but still.
For the long swords the overall stiffness is perhaps even more important, so the body of the blade will be kept stiff but light by increasing thinckness and working with an effective fuller. If the body of the blade is not stiff enough the swords will bounce in a distressing way when used in deflecting countercuts. Such wobbliness results in faulty technique for the practitioner.
Therefore the Mair training sword will be stiff in the main body of the blade, but still be reasonable flexible in the point: an intentional deviation from this particular aspect of the few surviving originals. The mass and dynamic handling characteristics of these swords will be as close to identical to that of corresponding sharp long swords.
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Lloyd Clark




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PostPosted: Fri 25 Mar, 2005 10:58 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Howy,

Any chance that a couple of these might be finished by Lanzefest? I think I know how I want to spend my pay....

What type of input are you looking for? Since I do both Stage Combat and WMA, I would be more than willing to help out. In fact, with Brian Price coming up in May, perhaps I can bring him over after the Saturday seminar is over?

Let me know what you think. I know that I will be picking up a few of these Big Grin

Cheers,

Lloyd Clark
2000 World Jousting Champion
2004 World Jousting Bronze Medalist
Swordmaster
Super Proud Husband and Father!
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Gary Grzybek




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PostPosted: Sun 27 Mar, 2005 5:50 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Howard Waddell wrote:
Bill Grandy wrote:
Oooo... Eek! Cool Big Grin Exclamation

I see where a lot of my disposable (ha!) income is going to be heading.

Hey, these are Albion Marks... do they count towards the collector's club? I can see myself selling off swords to buy six of these alone!

The Meyer and Marxbruder (great name!) are must haves for me!


Hey Bill!

Thanks for the kind words. And yes, they count.

And credit for the Marxbruder name goes to Gary Grzybek (he submitted it in the last "name that sword contest" and I loved it, but wanted to save it and use for a sword in this line instead.)

Best,

Howy



Thanks Howy, it's an honor to have one of my names chosen Big Grin

Gary Grzybek
ARMA Northern N.J.
www.armastudy.org
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Gary Grzybek




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PostPosted: Sun 27 Mar, 2005 5:53 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Joachim Nilsson wrote:
Wow! I'm... Wow... I'm at a loss for words. Well... Thank you Peter! Razz And thank you Albion! Big Grin It's a good time to be a swordsman right now. A good time indeed.




You can say that again Joachim!!!!! Laughing Out Loud

Gary Grzybek
ARMA Northern N.J.
www.armastudy.org
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Alina Boyden




PostPosted: Sun 27 Mar, 2005 11:56 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I love the I.33, this is exactly the style of sword I've been wanting in a sharp. Of course, a blunt weapon for practice will work nicely as well.
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Stephen A. Fisher




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PostPosted: Sun 27 Mar, 2005 3:54 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Peter Johnsson wrote:
Stephen A. Fisher wrote:
Hey Howy,

Great stuff as always! I'm particularly excited about the smallsword. Could you give me some information on The Angelo when you can spare the time? (blade cross section,overall length, etc.)

By looking at the picture, it looks to based upon some mid to late 17th smallswords. Which is good, because it will be great for working on earlier smallsword works such as de Liancour, Elder, & Hope.

Regards,
Stephen


Hey Stephen,

I am glad to hear your interest in the small sword.
The hilt is indeed of a style that had its greatest popularity in the mid to late 17th C. The style does continue on, however, even if it becomes less common.
The blade will probably have a diamond section, but possibly triangular if heat treating allowes such a refinement. Experiments are being conducted for heat treat of these sparring swords as I write this. Regardless of cross section, the small sword will have a stiff and sturdy forte and a flexible foible. There will be some sort of blunted end to take a button for safe sparring. The exact shape of the safe point is not yet decided. It can be a small "club" or a flat "nail head". Blade length will probably be around 80 cm, as that seems to be pretty standard for originals of this period: not too short and not too long. I would be interested to hear if there are other priorities among practitioners, though. If there is a preference for a blade that would be slightly longer or shorter than the general norm, I would be interested to know about it and adjust the design accordingly.
There will be two kidney shaped plates in front of the quillon block.


Hey Peter,

Thanks for the reply. I think it would be awesome if you guys would be able to recreate the triangular blade, but a blade of diamond cross section works just fine for me. A blade length of 80cm-31.5 inches would work well for everybody, as you said, it is neither not too short nor too long. That length was common throughout both the 17th & 18th centuries. I think a simple 'nail head' point would work to blunt the end, like seen on this rapier-foil; and if needed, the user could put a rubber blunt over it.




Another suggestion, if you don’t mind Wink is is to make the guard slightly asymmetrical as found on many period originals.


Admittedly, what I'm looking for in the Angelo is smallsword that would work for the 'transitional' period, as there are no such swords on the market.


Quote:
In weight and distribution of mass the sparring swords will be following the example of originals I have handeled and documented or otherwise have data for. This means the sparring line will build on the same body of research as the museum line and the next gen line.


Perfect. Cool I have no doubt that the finished product will handle on par with their historical counterparts.

One last question. Will the smallsword & rapier be wrapped with leather or wire wrapped?

a big thanks,
Stephen
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Eric Myers




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PostPosted: Sun 27 Mar, 2005 8:21 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Howard Waddell wrote:
In response to customer comments, we are changing the name of the cut and thrust sword to "Marozzo" -- we will come out with another model better suited to Silver's techniques in the future.


I think this is the right decision, but please don't wait too long for a Silver style sword! For that type, I urge you to consider a simple baskethilt with large hollow pommel, such as the Mary Rose sword. There are very few hilts of this style on the market, and the simplicity should help keep costs down.

Also, please consider blades in different lengths, to match different sized people. For the small sword, you may want to look into producing a slightly longer bladed version with a slightly different hilt for Spanish smallsword. This is a style taught by the Martinez's, so there will likely be a growing market.

Eric Myers
Sacramento Sword School
ViaHup.com - Wiki di Scherma Italiana
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Alina Boyden




PostPosted: Sun 27 Mar, 2005 10:23 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Stephen - if you make the guard asymmetrical then you'll be leaving out all of the lefthanders. Not that there are that many of us, but I have a hard enough time with any kind of post 16th century production sword as it is. Maybe that's why I tend to stick to the high middle ages.
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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 12:18 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Stephen A. Fisher wrote:
Hey Peter,

Thanks for the reply. I think it would be awesome if you guys would be able to recreate the triangular blade, but a blade of diamond cross section works just fine for me. A blade length of 80cm-31.5 inches would work well for everybody, as you said, it is neither not too short nor too long. That length was common throughout both the 17th & 18th centuries. I think a simple 'nail head' point would work to blunt the end, like seen on this rapier-foil; and if needed, the user could put a rubber blunt over it.

Another suggestion, if you don’t mind Wink is is to make the guard slightly asymmetrical as found on many period originals.

Admittedly, what I'm looking for in the Angelo is smallsword that would work for the 'transitional' period, as there are no such swords on the market.

Quote:
In weight and distribution of mass the sparring swords will be following the example of originals I have handeled and documented or otherwise have data for. This means the sparring line will build on the same body of research as the museum line and the next gen line.


Perfect. Cool I have no doubt that the finished product will handle on par with their historical counterparts.

One last question. Will the smallsword & rapier be wrapped with leather or wire wrapped?

a big thanks,
Stephen


Stephen,
I was actually planning to make the hilt assymmetrical, but as has been pointed out this will pose problems for those lefthanded fencers. There might be a way around this.
If the quillons are made straight without an s-curve in the horizontal plane, this would allow the sword to be used by both left and right handed fencers.
Among small swords I personally like the early ones best, those that belong to the transitional period from the long rapier to the short small sword. Many of these early small swords have longer blades that still have much in comon with earlier rapier blades. This style is perhpas a bit too specialized for a generic sparring weapon like this? I don´t know, if there is enough interest among practitioners, it is always possible to develop such a sword. To me such a weapon sould have a longer blade (about 90 cm) of diamond section and a slightly longer grip than the "Angelo".

Grip wrap is not finally decided but I am leaning towards having a black (optional red) cord wrap on all types. This will provide a firm and positive purchase that is very wear resitant and solid. It is also a wrap that will give the line a uniform identity. It underlines the fact that these swords are not primarily intended to mimic the every visual aspect of ; the focus is on the handling characteristics, the sturdiuness and the safety aspects.
A cord wrap is also cost effective, something that is of paramount importance as it seems like WMA practitioners put a low price very high on their prioity list.
Perhaps it might be possible to have leahter or wire wrapping as a customer option at additional cost?
We will yet have to se what the final solution for this will be.
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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 12:32 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Eric Myers wrote:
Howard Waddell wrote:
In response to customer comments, we are changing the name of the cut and thrust sword to "Marozzo" -- we will come out with another model better suited to Silver's techniques in the future.


I think this is the right decision, but please don't wait too long for a Silver style sword! For that type, I urge you to consider a simple baskethilt with large hollow pommel, such as the Mary Rose sword. There are very few hilts of this style on the market, and the simplicity should help keep costs down.

Also, please consider blades in different lengths, to match different sized people. For the small sword, you may want to look into producing a slightly longer bladed version with a slightly different hilt for Spanish smallsword. This is a style taught by the Martinez's, so there will likely be a growing market.


Hi Eric,
A hollow pommel is a feature that is not simple, but something that instead would significantly add to the cost of production. A hollow pommel would be more fitting for a sword in the Next Gen line, where such details are important.
An early simple basket hilt could still be possible for a sparring sword, but then a type should be chosen that will not demand too many compromises in production. There are types that do not have hollow pommels and a baskets that are even simpler than the Mary Rose sword. Such a weapon would seem ideal for a Silver sword.
My impression is that Silver recommended a simple hilt as he thought elaborate and complex hilts to be a silly consession to fashion. Ever the pragmatic, Silver would probably agree with the notion that "less is more". I am not even sure he would advocate a basket hilt before a more simple guard?
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Eric Myers




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PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 7:26 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Peter Johnsson wrote:

Hi Eric,
A hollow pommel is a feature that is not simple, but something that instead would significantly add to the cost of production. A hollow pommel would be more fitting for a sword in the Next Gen line, where such details are important.
An early simple basket hilt could still be possible for a sparring sword, but then a type should be chosen that will not demand too many compromises in production. There are types that do not have hollow pommels and a baskets that are even simpler than the Mary Rose sword. Such a weapon would seem ideal for a Silver sword.
My impression is that Silver recommended a simple hilt as he thought elaborate and complex hilts to be a silly consession to fashion. Ever the pragmatic, Silver would probably agree with the notion that "less is more". I am not even sure he would advocate a basket hilt before a more simple guard?


Sorry, I added that hollow pommel bit after writing the rest of the message :-P I realize it would be more expensive, and I would love to see you guys produce one in the Next Gen line.

Offhand I don't remember where or if Silver actually describes anything about his sword other than how to find the perfect length, but everyone I'm aware of who practices from his work seems to agree that it pretty much requires a closed hilt of some sort. And not a half basket either, as that would leave your hand pretty open still in his true guard.

Eric Myers
Sacramento Sword School
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R. Laine




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PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 7:29 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Peter Johnsson wrote:

My impression is that Silver recommended a simple hilt as he thought elaborate and complex hilts to be a silly consession to fashion. Ever the pragmatic, Silver would probably agree with the notion that "less is more". I am not even sure he would advocate a basket hilt before a more simple guard?


Peter,

There are several passages in Paradoxes of Defence in which he recommends a basket over the simple cross-hilt - indeed, the insufficiency of the protection granted by the average rapier's hilt was a part, however small, of his argument against the weapon. "And further, understand this for truth, that in gardant and open fight, the hand without a hilt lies open to most blows that shall be struck by the agent --" - Paradox 35.

If you don't mind, how long a blade are you considering for the Silver?

Here is an illustration from his book that shows the hilt relatively well (well enough to make it clear that it's a basket, anyway):



 Attachment: 20.68 KB
Silver - perfect length illustration.gif

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Ted Hewlett





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PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 9:32 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Howy:

Wow, thank you! This new line sounds absolutely perfect -- exactly what I've been waiting for, and from Albion to boot -- WhooHoo! A friend of mine has the Squire Line XIIa sword, and I really like it, but I've been waiting to see about the development of a sparring line because my primary interest/use is theatrical combat.

A couple of questions for you, though, regarding both the Maestro and the Squire Lines. 1) I know you said that the Maestros would count towards the sword collector's club, but do the Squires as well? I re-read the entire Squire Line thread, and couldn't find that info. 2) Are either the Maestros or the Squires limited editions like the NextGens? I sincerely hope not! What with fight directors, teachers and universities, theatre and opera companies, and films, I'm betting (and hoping) that you'll be able to sell far more than just 500 of each model ... over time. And that's just the stage combat folks, not to mention the WMA community. I hope you'll consider keeping these two more budgetary lines an open-ended ongoing project.

Thanks,

Ted


EDIT: I spoke with Mike today, and he told me that yes indeed, both the Maestro and Squire Lines count towards the sword collectors' club. Also, neither of these lines will be limited editions. Big Grin


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Stephen A. Fisher




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PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 4:34 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Peter Johnsson wrote:
Stephen,
I was actually planning to make the hilt assymmetrical, but as has been pointed out this will pose problems for those lefthanded fencers. There might be a way around this.
If the quillons are made straight without an s-curve in the horizontal plane, this would allow the sword to be used by both left and right handed fencers.
Among small swords I personally like the early ones best, those that belong to the transitional period from the long rapier to the short small sword. Many of these early small swords have longer blades that still have much in comon with earlier rapier blades. This style is perhpas a bit too specialized for a generic sparring weapon like this? I don´t know, if there is enough interest among practitioners, it is always possible to develop such a sword. To me such a weapon sould have a longer blade (about 90 cm) of diamond section and a slightly longer grip than the "Angelo".


Hi Peter,

I too have a fondness for the transitional period. I've noticed that many of the earlier smallswords have noticeably longer grips & blades in the the 34-36" range. Many being rapier blades. Then throughout, & towards the end of the century you can see the grip getting a bit shorter & blade length varying in along with its cross section (colichemarde, diamond, triangular, hexagonal).

Most of smallsword makers out there right now are producing smallswords mounted on double-wide epee blades which are perfect for later period smallsword like Angelo, Danet, & McArthur. Which is why I would like to see something along the lines of this. (I hope you don't mind if I slightly altered your drawing to better show my idea.) I think this would be appropriate for 17th century smallsword work (de la Touche, de Liancour, L' Abbot, Elder, Hope). This could be called The L'Abbat.



Quote:
Grip wrap is not finally decided but I am leaning towards having a black (optional red) cord wrap on all types. This will provide a firm and positive purchase that is very wear resitant and solid. It is also a wrap that will give the line a uniform identity. It underlines the fact that these swords are not primarily intended to mimic the every visual aspect of ; the focus is on the handling characteristics, the sturdiuness and the safety aspects.
]A cord wrap is also cost effective, something that is of paramount importance as it seems like WMA practitioners put a low price very high on their prioity list.
Perhaps it might be possible to have leahter or wire wrapping as a customer option at additional cost?
We will yet have to se what the final solution for this will be.


Having the grip wrapped in black/red cord also helps identify it as an Albion product. Keeping the cost down is always a good thing. Wink
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Stephen A. Fisher




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PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 4:40 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Alina Boyden wrote:
Stephen - if you make the guard asymmetrical then you'll be leaving out all of the lefthanders. Not that there are that many of us, but I have a hard enough time with any kind of post 16th century production sword as it is. Maybe that's why I tend to stick to the high middle ages.


Hey Alina,

I'm sorry about that. Wink I write/eat left-handed, & fence/shoot right-handed.Cool
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William Goodwin




PostPosted: Mon 28 Mar, 2005 5:22 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Oooooo.....like the looks of the Capoferra & the Marozzo.....quite chuffed with those...indeed.

Bill

Roanoke Sword Guilde

roanokeswordguilde@live.com
"I was born for this" - Joan of Arc
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Lloyd Clark




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PostPosted: Tue 19 Apr, 2005 7:06 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Howy,

One thing that I would ask for is to make the I:33 balanced to work for both the sword/buckler work and as a horseback sword. One of the big problems we have in doing sword-to-sword horseback shows/combat is the lack of a decently balanced and weighted sword. We are generally forced to use the Starfire "thin blades" (we call them horseback swords) -but while they ring great (another plus in a stage blade), they look terrible.

I hope to be working with Brian Price and Christian Tobler in the near future working out the various Master's works on equestrian combat and a good horseback sword (with a nice rebatted edge) will be a necessity.

The blade should be relatively light, but rigid, as a "whippy" blade is dangerous to your mount. It should have sufficient length to attack combatants on the ground, while not being overly long and becoming unwielding when fighting one-handed against another mounted opponent.

I haven't handled the Squire, but it looks a slight bit too big (I may be wrong), however, Peter's drawings of the Poitiers looks like it might be a winner.

Just my two pence - but a kickbutt stage horseback sword would be high on my list of "must have" blades.

Cheers,

Lloyd Clark
2000 World Jousting Champion
2004 World Jousting Bronze Medalist
Swordmaster
Super Proud Husband and Father!
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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Wed 20 Apr, 2005 12:33 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Rabbe Jan-Olof Laine wrote:
Peter Johnsson wrote:

My impression is that Silver recommended a simple hilt as he thought elaborate and complex hilts to be a silly consession to fashion. Ever the pragmatic, Silver would probably agree with the notion that "less is more". I am not even sure he would advocate a basket hilt before a more simple guard?


Peter,

There are several passages in Paradoxes of Defence in which he recommends a basket over the simple cross-hilt - indeed, the insufficiency of the protection granted by the average rapier's hilt was a part, however small, of his argument against the weapon. "And further, understand this for truth, that in gardant and open fight, the hand without a hilt lies open to most blows that shall be struck by the agent --" - Paradox 35.

If you don't mind, how long a blade are you considering for the Silver?

Here is an illustration from his book that shows the hilt relatively well (well enough to make it clear that it's a basket, anyway):


Thank you!
Duly noted. I stand corrected (I obviously need to read Silver more carefully!).

The blade for the 16th C cut and thrust (and I hink the same blade will be used for the "Silver") is to be around 90 cm long, perhaps a tad less. It should not be too short but still not so long as to make it unwieldly.
I will strive to make the point section as flexible as possible, but it cannot be as flexible as the rapier and small sword points. I will strive to have it flexible enough so you will have some safety margin while practicing thrusts but I would suspect you will have to be aware of distance while doing this. The C&T blade will not have a stopped end like a foil, but a coin sized radius.

The main idea with these blades is to vary the stiffness along the blades so that the base is fairly stiff for good handling during swordplay, but the point sections being as flexible as possible to allow for safety and agility.
...As with all training involving thrusting masks and padded wests will have to be worn, of course.


Last edited by Peter Johnsson on Wed 20 Apr, 2005 6:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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