Who makes a reliable strong Pole axe?
Hello everyone,

Who makes a reliable strong Pole axe? That isn't arms and armour.

I hear good things about lutel? Any other recommendations


Thank you
I have never owned one, but the Arms+Armor Manufacture (i.e. not Arms and Armour, but the other one) makes two very nice looking and affordable pollaxes! I have also heard a great deal of positive things about White Wells Arms, whose pollaxes are, in my opinion, the nicest looking on the market - fit for a true knight.

Jon Makar
Cold Steel had one in their lineup a few years back, but apparently discontinued them. Not much on looks, but they were tough. I have no idea where you might find one now, other than putting up a wanted ad. :\ ...McM
I was WRONG! They still make the Cold Steel pole axe! If they are as stout as the Warhammer and Viking Axe, it ought to be a pretty darned tough weapon. Hmmm....may have to add one to an empty corner in my 'man-cave'. Yep. :) ....McM
Weeellll....After reading several customer reviews from Amazon.com....on second thought, maybe not. :( .....McM
!!!!!
Yeah!! Their hammers and axe are great

Their spears and halberd suck
Is the suckiness due to their socket?
I believe I can answer that, even without owning one. The spears and halberds all share the same trait...an open socket. Nothing wrong with that, mind you, but it still rubs a bit raw to some. I can personally attest....the CS Viking Axe is one of the biggest, toughest, best looking products that CS has ever offered. Don't be mislead by customer reviews saying how easy it is to assemble....it's not. But once you get there....daaaa-aaammmn! What a shredder! :eek: I may yet do a short review of the one I own....once it stops raining long enough for me to go out and kill a few water bottles and pool noodles. :D ....McM
This is a great question that I have been trying to figure out for a long time. I have owned and sold (on this forum) quite a few of A & A pieces...the look was spot on but heat treat was terrible for the price..would love to find a quality piece myself
Mark C. Moore wrote:
I believe I can answer that, even without owning one. The spears and halberds all share the same trait...an open socket. Nothing wrong with that, mind you, but it still rubs a bit raw to some. I can personally attest....the CS Viking Axe is one of the biggest, toughest, best looking products that CS has ever offered. Don't be mislead by customer reviews saying how easy it is to assemble....it's not. But once you get there....daaaa-aaammmn! What a shredder! :eek: I may yet do a short review of the one I own....once it stops raining long enough for me to go out and kill a few water bottles and pool noodles. :D ....McM


Disagree about this, as an owner of all of them. The Cold Steel Assegai and modern Boar Spear have open sockets. Excellent weapons, btw. However the halberds, bill and spears in the Man At Arms series all have proper closed sockets. The halberds and bill all fit on the poles using a socket and a pin (or screw) through a hole in the socket rather than using langets as many of the original weapons did. Apart from that, however, the weapons are well made using good steel properly heat treated and can be sharpened to be lethally effective.

As I said, I own the short Assegai, the modern Boar Spear, the Swiss Halberd, English Bill, 18th c. Sergeant's Halberd, Winged Spear, Leaf Spear and European Spear. I have absolutely no clue why people say they "suck".
Re: Who makes a reliable strong Pole axe?
Lance Morris wrote:
Hello everyone,

Who makes a reliable strong Pole axe? That isn't arms and armour.

I hear good things about lutel? Any other recommendations


Thank you


I'm not sure if it's exactly the kind of Poleaxe you're looking for, but have you considered the new Fiore War Hammer in the Windlass Battlecry series? It's about 4 feet long like the warhammers/pole axes shown by Fiore in his treatise on weapons use. Looks like a pretty tough, well made and visually accurate version of an armoured knight's foot combat can-opener.
John Hardy----I made a fatal mistake. I assumed. If the CS MAA line of halberds and spears are true full-socket, then good for them. I've never seen a photo of them from different sides. :\ But then, I've never really looked because I don't want one. If I want a halberd/pole arm/spear, I will build it myself. :) That way, if it fails, ...I know who to blame. :wtf: ......McM
Mark C. Moore wrote:
John Hardy----I made a fatal mistake. I assumed. If the CS MAA line of halberds and spears are true full-socket, then good for them. I've never seen a photo of them from different sides. :\ But then, I've never really looked because I don't want one. If I want a halberd/pole arm/spear, I will build it myself. :) That way, if it fails, ...I know who to blame. :wtf: ......McM


The planets, obviously. Because if they hadn't been aligned wrong so that Mars was in the ascendant but Jupiter was in the House of the Turkey, your build project would have worked perfectly... :)
LOL (@ John Hardy)! And that sounds pretty promising considering some of the opinions I've seen elsewhere! I am reluctant to believe that every single Cold Steel product is poor quality, contrary to popular belief. Maybe I'll have to get ahold of a Cold Steel pollaxe, so I can add a cheap, yet robust member to my collection. Then I don't always have to worry about it breaking!

Can anybody say anything about the makers/pollaxes that I had mentioned above? (Arms+Armor Manufacture or White Wells Arms)?
Hello
Hello gents

I had an assai spear from cold steel. It broke. Not impressed. How ever for the price wasn't expecting the world.

For the price I paid for the A and A pole axe. I was expecting better. The weld busted!! I was not happy that it was welded in the first place.

I'll check into deepeka- if those fail it's not a $550 hit
I have the MAA Bill from CS. I can't say I've ever held an actual medieval one but it's an alright piece. The shaft is entirely round, though, and it leads to some issue in edge alignment as a result; I think if I were to sand the pole flat along the sides, it would be a bit better. On its own it does track well, however. I may buy another example, sand off all the finish, and use it as another bit of living history gear.

Oh, the screws are probably not the best long-term mount. I'm told I could drive a nail through and have it be more secure - that's likely what I'd do with the next one.

M.
M. Eversberg II wrote:
I have the MAA Bill from CS. I can't say I've ever held an actual medieval one but it's an alright piece. The shaft is entirely round, though, and it leads to some issue in edge alignment as a result; I think if I were to sand the pole flat along the sides, it would be a bit better. On its own it does track well, however. I may buy another example, sand off all the finish, and use it as another bit of living history gear.

Oh, the screws are probably not the best long-term mount. I'm told I could drive a nail through and have it be more secure - that's likely what I'd do with the next one.

M.


Yes, the round shafts are a bit of an issue. The Swiss Halberd comes with the haft flattened on the sides so you can tell by feel where the edge is and it helps with the grip. With my other ones, I took some decorative brass-headed tacks and studded the shafts with them, set about six inches apart and set in line with the cutting edges. I can tell immediately by feel where my edge is, even in the dark.
Re: Hello
Lance Morris wrote:
Hello gents
For the price I paid for the A and A pole axe. I was expecting better. The weld busted!! I was not happy that it was welded in the first place.
I'll check into deepeka- if those fail it's not a $550 hit


I am sorry to hear about your misfortune with the construction of that weapon, but don't most complex (historical) polearms of that nature have at least some form of forge welding incorporated into their construction? Where did the welds fail?
John Hardy wrote:


Yes, the round shafts are a bit of an issue. The Swiss Halberd comes with the haft flattened on the sides so you can tell by feel where the edge is and it helps with the grip. With my other ones, I took some decorative brass-headed tacks and studded the shafts with them, set about six inches apart and set in line with the cutting edges. I can tell immediately by feel where my edge is, even in the dark.


Do we really know if period shafts were round or otherwise? The socket part is one thing, but the actual holding spot is definitely another.

M.

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