What is the best polish to use on a 16-gauge mild steel plate suit of armor? I have used many different things and always keep it wiped with Rem Oil after each wear. But is there something to restore the shine? Thanks in advance for the answers.

I've had good luck with plain ol' Turtle Wax on my polished pieces. Don't use too much, or it'll gunk up around rivets, etc. You'll find yourself digging it out with a toothpick. The rest of my armor is darkened, so a wipe-down with Nevr-Dull does the trick for it. Someone else may have a better suggestion. :) .....McM

I have a lot of metal in my house and it depends on the degree of oxidation. For mild discoloration and to remove finger prints or surface scratches I use Blue Magic metal polish. It's available in the automotive parts-supply stores like Pep Boys and Advanced Auto. It will also remove actual rust if you apply some actual elbow grease. But if the rusting is over a large area or severe, I use a series of scrubby pads and fine emory paper (going coarse to fine and eventually finishing with the same polish).
It also leaves a minimal protective coat of silicone on the surface of the metal retarding future rust for handling or humidity.
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For long time storage, or if it's going to be outside for any period, I use spray grease such as Blaster Corrosion Stop (made by the same company that makes PB Blaster liquid penetrant). Corrosion stop is a light grease that you can wipe over the surface. This is also available in auto parts suppliers and home centers.
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I once did a week-long event in the woods and had a helmet that was coated with Corrosion stop. I had left the helmet sitting in the grass over-night. The next morning, due to heavy humidity and temperature swings, the dew had rusted everyone's mild steel armor, but my helmet was still shiny. The dew beaded-up on the surface and I was able to wipe it down with a rag before any rust could take hold.

Simoniz car wax for long term display, Autosol (best all around metal polish I know of, and I've tried a few) for removing oxidation, Fluid Film to protect for field use. There's a thread over on the Armour Archive that compares various rust inhibitors on mail.

It all depends on how much time and effort you're willing to spend in maintaining the finish. A mirror finish has always been very labour-intensive to achieve, whether historically or today.

I personally use the same stuff on my -metal- armor that I use on my guns. I will use Never Dull to remove any oxidation/rusting and give the metal a good sound cleaning. Afterwards, or for just routine oiling, I'll wipe down the weapons/armor with 3-in-1 oil or if I have any I'll use military CLP gun oil (which basically has the same formula, but is a bit more "industrial grade"). That stuff will leave a light coating of oil behind that does a fantastic job of protecting the metal and preventing future rust/oxidation.

Regardless, all of the polishes and care products people have listed so far are great to use. You could pretty much pick from the lot and see what you personally like the best.

It shouldn't. I've never had any issues like that. :) ...McM

Yup....Just what Ben said! ;) I neglected to say anything about leather strapping. I find it best to treat the leather parts *before* waxing, letting them dry. Getting that stuff on the steel is kinda defeating the purpose. :) ....McM

Do agree with others, have found paste wax to do the job admirably. It is extremely easy to maintain, re-coat, etc. Certainly a lot better than any type of clear coat. Will not ruin the cloth portions of your kit, and a few other miracles things as yet undiscovered.

The secret is start with a clean surface, no metal polish residue, no oil, etc, (CLEAN). Don't get looped in with cleaner/wax/ polish junk, they just encapsulate the gunge and as soon as a bit of O2 hits, the cycle starts again. Friend Mark is correct about "stuff" around the rivet heads and nooks and crannies, old tooth brushes are ideal for these areas.

For leather, there are a variety of product that work well, saddle soap, etc. I use neats foot (or mink oil), the leather darkens a little bit, but the strapplng is as supple as a "wet rag" ....

Regards,
Dan