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Chris Goerner
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 Posted: Sat 22 Jan, 2005 3:16 am Post subject: |
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I just saw a TV show on the Springfield Armoury Museum last night. They treat each of the 8,000 guns in their collection with a thin coat of wax -- oil traps dust and grime, and eventually evaporates.
Anyhow, if they trust their weapons to wax, I am going to continue to do the same.
Sic Semper Tyranus
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Sat 22 Jan, 2005 3:54 am Post subject: |
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Now we know that car wax is recommended: I wonder if some types of waxes should be avoided because of chemicals or something in them that would cause instead of prevent rust, or other issues that might make it less than ideal.
How about natural bees wax that could have been used historically?
Floor wax?
Renaissance wax ? Heard about this one but don't know much about it or where to get it or how easy it is to find: Fine arts supply stores or craft hobby stores?
Anyway this question is just asked in the spirit that if anything can go wrong it will and just to be sure that all bases are covered here.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Sat 22 Jan, 2005 4:06 am Post subject: |
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Oh, just a thought: How about using wax to protect maille?
I think I would take two clean socks rub or spray wax on them and then using one on each hand I would rub the maille on the outside and inside at the same time leaving only a thing coating of wax.
This should give some rust protection and if used in moderation keep a gambison from picking up a red rust coat of dirt.
Doing a quick rubdown after every use of the maille should be easy and fast.
This for Patrick Kelly after all the work he put in removing the rust protection from his hauberk for the sake of it looking historically accurate. ( Also the odd of killing himself accidentally with wax should be LOW ......... LOL.)
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Steve Grisetti
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| Posted: Sat 22 Jan, 2005 5:49 am Post subject: Renaissance wax source |
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| Jean Thibodeau wrote: |
Renaissance wax ? Heard about this one but don't know much about it or where to get it or how easy it is to find: Fine arts supply stores or craft hobby stores?
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I have been using Renaissance Wax lately, and am pleased with it. While it takes longer than oiling a blade, I think that it looks nicer.
I could not find it at local craft stores, so I ordered it on the web. The best price that I found was Highland Hardware, who delivered very promptly. This link is their index page, and Renaissance Wax is shown way down on the page on the left side (at the time of this posting).
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp
Sorry, folks. I just have difficulty with the "embrace the rust" concept. I spent too many years fighting rust on my old MGB. 
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Eric Myers
Location: Sacramento, CA Joined: 23 Aug 2003
Posts: 214
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| Posted: Sat 22 Jan, 2005 8:33 am Post subject: |
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I've been using liquid car wax such as Maguire's for 4, maybe 5 years now. Its very easy to put on the blade, it isn't sticky, I can atually touch the blade and not need to rewax, and it makes cutting alot smoother  The longest any of my swords goes without use is a year, and it seems to last that long with no problem.
I am less impressed with wax on the other furniture. The wax will rub off quickly from quards and pommels. A simple cross or smooth pommel is easy to wax, but if there is any detail engraving or casting, any crevasses, etc, you will end up with a waxy white line in there which takes some effort to finish cleaning up. On some swords, like my practice rapiers, I don't care, I just wipe away what wax I can and leave the rest as is. On the prettier swords that I only do occasional test cutting with, I go that extra step. A note of caution: Be careful of the grip! If you wax the pommel or guard, then tape off the grip or you WILL end up with white spots on it. Masking tape is cheap, and has almost as many uses as duct tape, just go buy some.
Like lots of people here, I've spent some time removing varnish and laquer from swords, but I'm thinking of putting it back on some of my quards and pommels. I'd be interested in hearing more details about success or failure with brands, types, techniques, etc.
Eric Myers
Sacramento Sword School
ViaHup.com - Wiki di Scherma Italiana
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Alex Oster
Location: Washington and Yokohama Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 410
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| Posted: Sat 22 Jan, 2005 9:17 am Post subject: |
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| Eric Myers wrote: | | I'd be interested in hearing more details about success or failure with brands, types, techniques, etc. |
I think the most important factor is patiance. One thin layer at a time.
The pen is mightier than the sword, especially since it can get past security and be stabbed it into a jugular.
This site would be better if everytime I clicked submit... I got to hear a whip crack!
My collection: Various Blades & Conan related
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Sat 22 Jan, 2005 9:18 am Post subject: |
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| Jean Thibodeau wrote: | Renaissance wax ? Heard about this one but don't know much about it or where to get it or how easy it is to find: Fine arts supply stores or craft hobby stores?
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MRL sells Ren. Wax. Or try this: [url]http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=renaissance+wax [/url].
Some people really like the Renaissance Wax. I tried it and it didn't work well for me, though my blades at the time laid flat in a very dusty environment. Nothing would have protected them in that house...
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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Jörg W.
Location: Germany Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 11:44 am Post subject: |
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Hey all,
I browsed through old threads found via search function and through that Care and Maintenance article, but could not find a satisfying answer to my problem. So I though i revive this one.
While I was on holidays someone picked up my sword not knowing that it does not like sweaty hands. Now i got these nice finger prints on the blade i would like to get rid off. It did not rusted, but in the right light the prints are clearly visible. I cleaned off the oil like 5 days after the blade was touched. I tried acetone (nail varnish remover) and alcohol (aftershave) to take off the remaining fat. but it looks like the acid already touched the metal.
I do not like to polish the whole blade. Is there a way to remove the finger prints with little effort while keeping the satin finish on my Albion Next Gen sword?
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Edward Hitchens
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 11:53 am Post subject: |
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My swords are more prone to dust than rust. Fortuneately, dust isn't hard to remove; I just take a non-abrasive material (i.e. toilet paper) and wipe it down. Dust is most visible whenever I put a light coat of Break Free on my blades.
If rust develops, I can rub it off with one of my 'rust erasers.'
"The whole art of government consists in the art of being honest." Thomas Jefferson
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 11:54 am Post subject: |
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| Jörg W. wrote: | | Is there a way to remove the finger prints with little effort while keeping the satin finish on my Albion Next Gen sword? |
I've had decent luck using a gray scotchbrite pad and Metal-Glo polish. The finish it leaves is pretty darn close to the stock Albion finish. Where I've polished stuff off my blades you can't tell that I didn't do the whole thing.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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Bruno Giordan
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Chris Goerner wrote: | While it may be a bit less orthodox than oil, I have been using wax to protect my blades for the past several years. Actually, the product I use is Snowseal. Made to treat leather, it has a beeswax base with oils mixed in. I liked the water protection it gave to my leather scabbards, cartridge boxes, etc. and thought I would try it on a sword blade. I rub it in good, buff off the excess, and forget about it.
Unlike the oil, it doesn't get all over everything. It is also more durable than oil. And, since it is made to go on leather, it won't have any negative effect on your scabbard, even if the scabbard it is wood lined.
I have also used the paste wax made for wood finishes on swords and knives. It is even more durable than the snowseal, but does leave a glossy appearance that may not be to everyones taste.
Also, I have heard of folks heating the metal with a hairdryer before application of either oil or wax. The idea being, the warm metal makes the oil or wax more fluid, allowing it to soak in better. Practically speaking, I don't know how much of a difference this makes (if any), but if you are having persistent rust problems, it might be worth a try.
Chris |
I waxed my norman helmet with special non-synthetic wax given to me by a traditional furniture restorer here in Italy.
It is stored in a damp cellar where other iron things get rusted overnight, after a couple weeks of storage there are no sign of new rust.
My wax is real beeswax, not a modern syntetic compound ...
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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Chad I agree that with an Albion finish the scotchbrite should work but if the sword is mirror polished it would be tricky to match the finish.
Should do a test on some hard to notice place or on something else " cheap " that has a mirror finish to see if the abrasive leaves either a rougher or a brighter finish.
Jeweller rouge and a little oil worked for me on mirror finishes but it's hard to match the finish 100%.
Now Jörg should tell us what the present finish is like so that we don't spend a lot of time giving him the wrong advice.
If the sword is a using sword it should have acquired a few scratches so a perfect finish would be less critical than if it's a sword owned as an expensive collectable that would loose value with every blemish.
Well there are collectors and then there are COLLECTORS ! There are also users who don't keep their swords under glass and use them for cutting.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Jörg W.
Location: Germany Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you for your replies so far.
This sword is the first and only one I got until now. I didn't cut with it yet, but I plan to. I handled it with care and refreshed oil (WD40) about once a week. I am a perfectionist and the first scratches and spots always hurt me. Maybe i will care less for a single one once i have more swords. The sword hasn't been repolished and is more or less in same condition in which it arrived from Albion. Its that satin shine, not mirrored.
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Jörg W. wrote: | Thank you for your replies so far.
This sword is the first and only one I got until now. I didn't cut with it yet, but I plan to. I handled it with care and refreshed oil (WD40) about once a week. I am a perfectionist and the first scratches and spots always hurt me. Maybe i will care less for a single one once i have more swords. The sword hasn't been repolished and is more or less in same condition in which it arrived from Albion. Its that satin shine, not mirrored. |
Ah, an Albion: Then Chads' advice would apply but no circular rubbing or side to side, but strokes lengthwise on the blade.
I could be wrong but WD40 isn't the best oil for protecting from rust ( Could be wrong as I don't remember where I read this. )
Breakfree or a good Gun oil would be better I think, WD40 is slightly acidic or moisture can stay trapped beneath the coat of oil. ( Again I could be wrong. )
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Aaron J. Cergol
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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Hi,
I use Minwax for all of my mild steel armour and none of it has rusted yet. I apply a havy coat of it, wipe off the excess and let dry. when dry I buff it until it is pollished. if you are storing or displaying it for a long time you can put a huge load of wax on it and you won't have to worry about it for several months.
oh, and also keep the rag that you apply yhre wax with in the wax container. over time it will become wax coated and is easier to apply to things.
hope this helps,
Aaron
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Jean Thibodeau wrote: | Chad I agree that with an Albion finish the scotchbrite should work but if the sword is mirror polished it would be tricky to match the finish.
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Since he'd mentioned the "satin finish on my Albion Next Gen sword" I figured I could answer his question pretty specifically.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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Jörg W.
Location: Germany Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 35
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Bruno Giordan
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Jörg W. wrote: | Thank you for your replies so far.
This sword is the first and only one I got until now. I didn't cut with it yet, but I plan to. I handled it with care and refreshed oil (WD40) about once a week. I am a perfectionist and the first scratches and spots always hurt me. Maybe i will care less for a single one once i have more swords. The sword hasn't been repolished and is more or less in same condition in which it arrived from Albion. Its that satin shine, not mirrored. |
Pumice powder (Pomice di Lipari) can be used for polishing while removing light rust.
Will produce a very bright finish.
Elbow grease will be necesary.
Very, very gentle on materials.
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Bryce Felperin
Location: San Jose, CA Joined: 16 Feb 2006
Posts: 552
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Jörg W. wrote: | Hey all,
I browsed through old threads found via search function and through that Care and Maintenance article, but could not find a satisfying answer to my problem. So I though i revive this one.
While I was on holidays someone picked up my sword not knowing that it does not like sweaty hands. Now i got these nice finger prints on the blade i would like to get rid off. It did not rusted, but in the right light the prints are clearly visible. I cleaned off the oil like 5 days after the blade was touched. I tried acetone (nail varnish remover) and alcohol (aftershave) to take off the remaining fat. but it looks like the acid already touched the metal.
I do not like to polish the whole blade. Is there a way to remove the finger prints with little effort while keeping the satin finish on my Albion Next Gen sword? |
For light smudges and fingerprints I use glass cleaner (Amonia) spray and a cloth. For indented finger prints (like what you describe) I usually use a 3M sanding pad with very high grid count (like 500+). Simply sand the surface and they go away without removing much if any metal material.
As for preservatives, I used to use car wax too (Turtlewax liquid) but have since gone back to WD-40. My usual routine after cutting or handling is to spray down with glass cleaner on the blade, then use a rust eraser or 3M pad to get off trouble rust spots, then WD-40 applied to a cloth to coat the blade and furniture. Sometimes I put leather treatment on the handle/grip, but I kind of like that "used" look on my sword grips since it kind of adds character. :-)
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Lawrence Edwards
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| Posted: Tue 05 Sep, 2006 2:55 pm Post subject: Oils |
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At the Arms and Armor booth at MN Renfest, where rain and moisture are often ever-present, we use ZEP. Not too thick, but a very lasting odor... I personally use mineral oil. A bit messy, drips if applied too thickly, but coats the blade for a long time. Never had a problem with using it, and I'd rather be safe than rusty. Cheap too. For cleaning, I spray Remington gun oil or WD40.
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