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Dean F. Marino
Location: Midland MI USA Joined: 24 Aug 2011
Posts: 229
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 Posted: Tue 17 Jun, 2014 6:31 am Post subject: |
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| Luka Borscak wrote: | | Bryan Heff wrote: | | I see now and am instantly reminded that Dean you have mentioned this construction method on DSAs before. So the nut and washer are screwed onto a threaded (or partially threaded) tang and sit against the grip...then the pommel is placed on over the nut. My question how is the pommel then fixed? Is it also threaded or is it slid on the remaining tang and peened in a traditional way? |
I think it is screwed on AND peened, more for visual effect than function... |
EXACTLY so  , When I use a safety nut, I go through a 4 step process:
1) Use 2 ton epoxy in conjunction with a grip core that has been ROUTED out for a good, tight "square-ish" fit to the tang...
2) Add a washer, THEN a nut with Red Loctite. Allow this to exert force on the grip for 24 hours...
3) Add the pommel + Epoxy 24 hours later... get it good & snug, but do not depend on the POMMEL to provide all of the compression force on the grip.
4) A day later, cold peen - and this IS primarily for aesthetics.
That final "cosmetic peen" (for lack of a better term) is NOT restricted to DSA's... the Gen2 Dordogne I recently rebuilt also used a thread-peen combination. I'm seeing more of this, and really wish we had the vocabulary to distinguish between an end peen designed for structural integrity, vs a much shallower cosmetic peen.
In edhil, hai edhil. In edain, hai edain.
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Dean F. Marino
Location: Midland MI USA Joined: 24 Aug 2011
Posts: 229
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| Posted: Tue 17 Jun, 2014 6:35 am Post subject: |
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| Michael B. wrote: | Alrighty, confirmed. It was a washer over a nut, I couldn't get the nut out though, it does appear to be deeper than a standard nut though.
I will get some additional thickness measurements probably tomorrow. |
Oh, Michael? Now that the pommel is off - if you heat the nut area with a propane torch to about 250F? You will break down the Epoxy holding the nut in - and can extract the nut with a set of needle nose pliers .
In edhil, hai edhil. In edain, hai edain.
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Michael B.
Industry Professional
Location: Seattle, WA Joined: 18 Oct 2007
Posts: 367
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| Posted: Mon 02 Feb, 2015 12:26 am Post subject: |
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For the benefit of full disclosure, I ended up buying the sword. I'm going to de construct it further, but I was inspired by the blade and will be building something off of it.
www.facebook.com/bearmountainforge2
Michael Bergstrom
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Roger Hooper
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| Posted: Mon 02 Feb, 2015 10:05 am Post subject: |
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| Roger Hooper wrote: | | Michael B. wrote: | The blade is 0.25" thick at the base, thinning to 0.08" at the tip.
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Could you please take one or two more thickness measurements, 25%, 50%, 75% down the blade? That would tell us a lot more about the blade geometry.
Thanks |
Were you ever able to take those blade thickness measurements?
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Michael B.
Industry Professional
Location: Seattle, WA Joined: 18 Oct 2007
Posts: 367
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| Posted: Tue 03 Feb, 2015 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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Base: 0.25"
25%: 0.19"
50%: 0.18"
75%: 0.14"
Tip: 0.08"
Blade width:
Base: 1.85"
25%: 1.68"
50%: 1.47"
75%: 1.14"
0.05" from Tip: 0.21"
www.facebook.com/bearmountainforge2
Michael Bergstrom
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Roger Hooper
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| Posted: Tue 03 Feb, 2015 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for posting those specs. It looks like DSA has gotten serious about this aspect.
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This is a standard topic
