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Christopher Treichel
Location: Metro D.C. Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 268
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 Posted: Fri 02 Aug, 2013 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Tend to agree with these posts... make a knife you can carry everyday. Its a lot more usefull... So keep the blade under three inches and give it a nice cutting edge. One edge only. I work in DC and honestly unless your going into a museum or some of the federal offices... wearing a pocket knife is not a problem. On the other hand a fixed blade knife however usefull is just not acceptable unless your hunting, camping, hiking or on a farm...
Self defense knives are foolish as already discussed.
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Philip Dyer
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| Posted: Fri 02 Aug, 2013 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Anyone know where you can find diagrams of different knife cross sections, distal taper, etc?
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Mark Moore
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| Posted: Fri 02 Aug, 2013 11:29 am Post subject: |
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Amen, Daniel.....Make her a one-of-a-kind, special, totally unique bladed weapon, that she can use to cut her lunch sandwich or open up her next box from KOA. A hand-crafted knife from a loving friend is an heirloom to be passed down through generations. Make it beautiful...and special...with love. Made this way, with the heart in mind, it will NEVER fail. McM
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G Ezell
Industry Professional
Location: North Alabama Joined: 22 Dec 2003
Posts: 235
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G Ezell
Industry Professional
Location: North Alabama Joined: 22 Dec 2003
Posts: 235
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| Posted: Fri 02 Aug, 2013 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Peter Johnsson had a nice image comparing the cross sections of several types of swords but I can't seem to find it at the moment. |
Found it...
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?app=c...h_id=40364
At the top a katana, then a seax, then various sword cross sections....
" I have found that it is very often the case that if you state some absolute rule of history, there will be an example, however extremely unusual, to break it."
Gabriel Lebec
https://www.facebook.com/relicforge
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Ron Reimer
Location: Australia Joined: 16 Aug 2010
Posts: 56
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Daniel Wallace
Location: Pennsylvania USA Joined: 07 Aug 2011
Posts: 580
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| Posted: Sat 03 Aug, 2013 11:15 am Post subject: |
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i see a lot of the recommended post for a recommended style. things to consider . . .
what will she use the knife for the most this will make the over all design. if she hunts, you'll want a smaller knife, with a really good edge - smaller the knife, think of making a finer edge - something hollow ground that with very little work a razor edge can be put on that blade.
the bigger the blade, you can choose a flat grind - personally my belief is, a knife under 10 inch should all be hollow ground. and your not going to find may uses for a blade over 10 inches. although hollow grind is a little tricky in comparison to flat, you'll find the difference in honing the blade.
whatever design you decide on, keep this in mind, no flat lines. make every line at an angle. if you read up a little on profile and distal tapers a little you'll see what i mean. no only do they look better - like an actual finished piece not just stamped but the little bit of taper aids in cutting. in knifes its not a huge idea, we see tapers in swords multiply their function dynamically, but to myself and may experiences collectors - seeing profiles in the blade is a sign that someone is paying attention to what their making.
if you just want to make a keep sake, sky is the limit. but keep in mind that a knife should be sleek, not bulky. its not a hammer its a knife. i'd also think about getting something a little thicker than just old saw blade or what kind of saw blade are we talking out? circular saw, old carpenters saw?
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Philip Dyer
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| Posted: Sat 03 Aug, 2013 11:52 am Post subject: |
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| Daniel Wallace wrote: | i see a lot of the recommended post for a recommended style. things to consider . . .
what will she use the knife for the most this will make the over all design. if she hunts, you'll want a smaller knife, with a really good edge - smaller the knife, think of making a finer edge - something hollow ground that with very little work a razor edge can be put on that blade.
the bigger the blade, you can choose a flat grind - personally my belief is, a knife under 10 inch should all be hollow ground. and your not going to find may uses for a blade over 10 inches. although hollow grind is a little tricky in comparison to flat, you'll find the difference in honing the blade.
whatever design you decide on, keep this in mind, no flat lines. make every line at an angle. if you read up a little on profile and distal tapers a little you'll see what i mean. no only do they look better - like an actual finished piece not just stamped but the little bit of taper aids in cutting. in knifes its not a huge idea, we see tapers in swords multiply their function dynamically, but to myself and may experiences collectors - seeing profiles in the blade is a sign that someone is paying attention to what their making.
if you just want to make a keep sake, sky is the limit. but keep in mind that a knife should be sleek, not bulky. its not a hammer its a knife. i'd also think about getting something a little thicker than just old saw blade or what kind of saw blade are we talking out? circular saw, old carpenters saw? |
I bought four hand powered woodsaws of them, three of them are relatively thin and the last one is thick for a handsaw. I intentionally bought more steel that I think for the size of knife I'm thinking of making for her, which would be broad bladed, single edged, with a dramatic profile taper in order to get a good point, and about the size of a k bar and Zero grind because she never told me that she hunts or camps, but she likes to cook and go out and look at different plants, trim some bits of one, and examine them.
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Randall Pleasant
Location: Flower Mound, Texas Joined: 24 Aug 2003
Posts: 333
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| Posted: Mon 05 Aug, 2013 11:33 am Post subject: |
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| Tom King wrote: | | ...short of john clements magic dagger blocking skill... |
What? 
Ran Pleasant
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Sean Flynt
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| Posted: Mon 05 Aug, 2013 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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I'm a big fan of the early American fighting knife that was first described as a "butcher" knife and later became the multi-faceted Bowie. If we're talking about a project that would represent a classic fighting knife without being meant for actual carry, that would be at the top of my list. Some of these were extremely simple at first. As often happens, they became more decorative as they became more of a wannabe fashion item. I like the plainest early ones. The one below is between those extremes, and is generally representative of the type. Imagine this blade with all-wood grips instead of bolsters, and a leather over wood sheath, and you'd get the image of the plainer types.
 Attachment: 41.75 KB
-Sean
Author of the Little Hammer novel
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Philip Dyer
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| Posted: Mon 05 Aug, 2013 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Sean Flynt wrote: | | I'm a big fan of the early American fighting knife that was first described as a "butcher" knife and later became the multi-faceted Bowie. If we're talking about a project that would represent a classic fighting knife without being meant for actual carry, that would be at the top of my list. Some of these were extremely simple at first. As often happens, they became more decorative as they became more of a wannabe fashion item. I like the plainest early ones. The one below is between those extremes, and is generally representative of the type. Imagine this blade with all-wood grips instead of bolsters, and a leather over wood sheath, and you'd get the image of the plainer types. |
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4a/Athame.JPG Would a single edged version with a single guard be a good idea for a utility with moderate defensive capabilities. She also a hobby Wicca, gathering plants and scienfically examining them also helps her Wiccan hobby.
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Sean Flynt
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| Posted: Tue 06 Aug, 2013 7:23 am Post subject: |
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Ahhh...sounds like a nice light fieldcraft knife would be good! I know you want to make the blade, but I'll just throw this out there anyway. The best knife in my house is my grandfather's ancient, light Old Hickory cabbage knife (see the new one below--$8.50!).
There are bigger, thicker OH butcher knives that would be better fighting knives, but these shorter, thinner blades are fantastic and easily take and hold an edge. They're carbon steel, so they have an historical look about them and will take a beautiful natural patina with use. If you wanted to focus on the bling, you could get one of those very inexpensive knives, make new grip scales (horn? bone? figured hardwood?,) add silver pins or escutcheons, make a lanyard hole, make a beautiful sheath, etc.
This place has these and a huge assortment of other carbon steel knives with an historical look to them.
http://www.ragweedforge.com/HistoricalKnifeCatalog.html
Attachment: 16.65 KB
-Sean
Author of the Little Hammer novel
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Ron Reimer
Location: Australia Joined: 16 Aug 2010
Posts: 56
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Tom King
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| Posted: Thu 08 Aug, 2013 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Randall Pleasant wrote: | | Tom King wrote: | | ...short of john clements magic dagger blocking skill... |
What?
Ran Pleasant |
http://www.thearma.org/Videos/TPVideos.htm
"On the Beauty of Abrazzare" (right click and save)
be prepared to really "wut". Seems like a good way to get stabbed in the chest, but apparently it works (at least against attackers doing specific , committed moves in a specific way at a set distance)
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Daniel Wallace
Location: Pennsylvania USA Joined: 07 Aug 2011
Posts: 580
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| Posted: Fri 09 Aug, 2013 9:38 am Post subject: |
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| Sean Flynt wrote: | Ahhh...sounds like a nice light fieldcraft knife would be good! I know you want to make the blade, but I'll just throw this out there anyway. The best knife in my house is my grandfather's ancient, light Old Hickory cabbage knife (see the new one below--$8.50!).
There are bigger, thicker OH butcher knives that would be better fighting knives, but these shorter, thinner blades are fantastic and easily take and hold an edge. They're carbon steel, so they have an historical look about them and will take a beautiful natural patina with use. If you wanted to focus on the bling, you could get one of those very inexpensive knives, make new grip scales (horn? bone? figured hardwood?,) add silver pins or escutcheons, make a lanyard hole, make a beautiful sheath, etc.
This place has these and a huge assortment of other carbon steel knives with an historical look to them.
http://www.ragweedforge.com/HistoricalKnifeCatalog.html |
these knifes are made by Queen/Ontario cutlery built just a few dozen miles north of me in Titusville Pa probably the oldest knife company in the states. in my opinion, their pocket knives are second to none - have tons of carbon steel options and D2 for many of their products. Old Hickory is a kitchen knife set built out of the Ontario division (they do fixed bladed knifes and they are some of the most well designed blades I've seen vs S.O.G. their finish is a little bit rough though) and you can't beat their price for the steel. i rebuilt an old Hickory a long time back, and it holds up very well. in fact when i was attempting to peen the steel without heat - it was a monster to move. it just laughed at the peen of my hammer like 'is that all you got'
the rivets come out really easy if you have a drill press, and the tang is a full piece of steel, not a punched out blank. i highly recommend this as a rebuild project you can think of.
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Sean Flynt
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