Just finished my Munich ladder pattern sword what do u think
This is my attemp of making sword with a pattern blade i hade a few problems along the way so the shape is not quite right but close enuff for me the pattern did not come out as well as i would of liked but i though that might happen as this is my first attemp at doing a one peice pattern sword only done knifes until now so what do u think.
My next sword will be a composit pattern hope to start it soon.

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Nice job - the pattern is excellent on the blade.
Wow! The blade is excellent, but I really like the proportions of the overall piece!
So, this is a handforged, pattern-welded sword inspired by the Munich? If that is so, I think this sword now takes at least third place as my favorite sword of all time. Really incredible work! Any info you can share about its construction and your experience working on it would be great.
Cheers for that ok then as this is my first pattern sword i used miled steel the darker colour in the pattern and L6 old lumber band saw blade the shiny colour as these cost me nothing to use the temper is softer rather than harder due to the mild steel in it i have not realy tempered it at all eather when 50% of steel is non hardenable i will use to types of high carben next time now i know i can do it. here are some picks of it at difrent stages the first it the billet befor i start it is a bit bigger then i need just so i made shore i hade enuff steel for the ladder pattern. I welded this bilet togeather i forged 5 times longer then cut restacked and rewelded for final layer count then forged to shape then cut groves in it on bouth sides then pressed flat this makes the pattern through the steel but to c it u need to cut the bevels in not forge them the forging is done in our press for bending steel after this it went to the c&c mill where we cut the ruff bevels in this was worked good then when we went to cut it out we cun on the rong side of the line a bit this is why it is a bit narrow at the tip after that i started hand sanding to 240 grit to remove the mill lines then heat treat and hand sanding again to 1200 grit then etch then finish as normal.

The next sword i do might be a big Highland Claymore with a composite 4 or 5 bar star twist i know this is not the way thay where made but i want to make fancy replicas of medieval swords becouse i think thay will look cool as i do want them to be a fully functional sword i will need to do some testing of the high carbon pattern steel. I also stabed through some steel barrals with the munich so it can stab.

And yes it is inspired by the Munich

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I think it looks great, you should start selling these:)
Fantastically stunning..... :!:
Faaaaaarrrrkkk, Craig, that is a truly impressive piece of steel!!!!! :eek:

Ok, now i want one.
Thank you for the "making of" pics. Very impressive! Even without the PW, the sword looks top notch, but the PW really puts it over the top. I would almost literally kill for one of those ;)
Ooh, almost forgot. Could I trouble you for some measurements? Especially blade width and thickness measurements, say base, middle, cop, 5cm back from tip? Also, could you as best you can describe how stiff your sword seems in the thrust? I am asking because I am halfway through forging a truck spring into a very Munich-like blade. Right now, the rough blade is about 103cm long, about 4cm wide and 8mm thick at base, with about 40 cm of tang. I am thinking of either doing something like a 10-15% bigger Munich or a ricasso-less Dane. I don't have any way to reliably heat treat something that large, but then originals certainly had pretty hit and miss heat treatment by modern standards, so I reason that as long as I get the last third to half of the blade pretty well hardened, the forte will be thick and stiff enough even if not optimally hardened. Thank you for showing your work, it is quite inspiring. I look forward to seeing what you do next.
year can do so this is how it came out

weight 1290g
overall length 1260mm
blade length 920mm
POB 80mm from guard
POP 495mm from guard

blade is 35.6mm x 7.6mm at guard
400mm from guard 23.4mm x 6.4mm
800mm from guard 10mm x 5.3mm
860 mm from guard and at where the stright taper stops and starts to curve to the tip 7.5mm x 4.5mm

tang about 20mm x 7.4mm taper to 6mm x 6mm this is with my x-ray vision

i know these stats are not right but this is still my first sword and even with a c&c mill u can still cock things up and when i was forging the tang only just hade enuff steel to do it

as for the thrust i only done a few through the basic steel drum befor i starded to polish it after the heat treat it was prity stiff but i also have nothing to compear it to i only have a 1 hand hanwei sparing sword and some other peice of crap i got all i need to do was to prove that the tip would not bend and it did hold up not to bad as 50% of the sword is soft.

with it ending up a bit narrow at the tip i have lost some of its cutting power in thery as i have not cut with it it was more to prove i could make the pattern sword. dident do a rc test cos with the softer steel it gives a bung reading so iv read but i was happy with is thrusting

as for heat treating i made the 4 burner forge just for it but i wanted to run it at the corect quenching temp but i could not turn the burners down enuff so might make a new one with a few mods so i can run it at corect temp over the full blade hade to start somewhere it sort of worked

as for your heat trreating sound like would work when u wand to do it youe self u can only do what u can do whats the way i think better then sending it out and geting someone else to do it even it its better all ways prouder when u do it your self.

just looking at where i can get the steel i want for the next one cos stuped new zealand dont have it not that i can find anyway.

your forge looks nice and simple - actually looks like something i'd like to invest in :)

and for your first sword - that's a heck of an accomplishment. the blade pattern looks great!
Thanks a bunch for the stats, Craig, very helpful.

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