[Brian Nelson]

Hello, folks. I figured that even though I just registered I could contribute some information to the massive amount already available here. I have just "started" a project to build a sword of Anglo Saxon style. My first step has been to purchase a Type X bare blade from Albion. Now, I spent a good amount of time measuring the blank, and I figured I'd post the dimensions, as they are not listed on Albion's website. So perhaps this will help someone that is thinking of a similar project.

First off, Albion was awesome to deal with. I was quoted 12 weeks "but I don't think it will take that long." I had it at my door less than two weeks later. I got it with the heat-treatment for $195 including shipping. The guys at Albion were great.

Here are the basic dimensions (inches):

37 1/4 overall length
30 1/2 blade length
2 blade width
3/4 tang width
3/16 tang/blade thickness

The blade itself tapers consistently from 2 at the hilt to 1 inch near the point. The last 1 1/4 of blade is rounded to form the point.

The thickness consistently tapers from 3/16 at the tang to probably 1/8 or a little less near the point.

The tang starts at the shoulder at 3/4 wide and tapers to 1/2, then steps rather sharply to 1/4 inch wide and remains roughly that width until the end of the tang.

The fuller is 1/2 at the hilt and consistently tapers to 3/8 at 2 1/4 from the point. Here it is triangular in shape and ends in a point 1 1/4 from the point of the blade. The fuller is fairly shallow (don't know how much).

The cross-section is interesting. The blade is flattened in the middle slightly, so it is not truly lenticular. But the bevels are not completely flat, so it is not truly hexagonal either. It appears to be a sort of mixture of the two. At the point where the fuller stops it is briefly diamond-sectioned. This is pre-grinding/sharpening, so I expend when I grind the bevels they will become flat, giving the cross section a hexagonal shape.

As the blade comes (with heat-treatment) it is of course a blackish blue. Removing the scum and polishing the blade only takes about an hour or so. But to grind the bevels to a correct sharpness is going to take a good bit of work with my belt sander. I have so far removed most of the black, and have brought the edge thickness from 1/16 to about 1/32, but I still have a ways to go and am about 2-3 hours in. Hopefully that gives you an idea of time.

If you want to keep the blade blunt you just need to remove the gunk from the heat-treatment and you're good to go. Getting the bevels done right...maybe 5-10 hours total time depending on how good you are. A belt grinder would probably cut that time significantly.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone out.

Cheers,

Brian

[Andrew Pribor]

Good to know. I have been considering ordering one of these for awhile. Judging from the pics on the web site, I wouldn't have expected the blank to come so "unfinished". Any way you could post a couple pics? I would be especially interested in how much grinding would be needed to get to a functional edge. Keep us posted on what type of hilt components you end up using. Would be great to see how you progress.

Cheers,

Andrew

[M. Curk]

Wow I've just been asking myself if it is a good idea to buy the exact same blade! I too would be very happy if you could provide some photos of the blade.
My other question is about historical accuracy - is this the right blade for late XIV. or early XV. century sword? I suppose that if the pommel and crossguard are of right shape then the blade would look authentic, or am I wrong?

Thanks

Miha

[Brian Nelson]

I will most certainly post some pictures for you gentlemen.

Mr. Curk, this is not appropriate for this time period, really in any way. But good news! Albion sells a Type XVIII blade that would fit perfectly with the time period you desire.

I will get pictures up later today, hopefully.

[Brian Nelson]

Here's an update with pictures. First, the weight. The blade as I received it was 31.5 ounces. After a couple hours of sanding (I have reduced the edge by about 25%) it now weighs 30.25 ounces. So grinding the edge to the right shape may bring it down to perhaps 27-28 ounces, I expect.

The point of balance when first received was 10 inches from the hilt.

I have made very crude mock-ups in wood of the shape of my handle. This will allow me to measure the volume of the pieces, determine what materials I will use, and thus calculate the weight of my hilt. I can then calculate (a ballpark figure) what my point of balance will be when assembled. This will determine somewhat how much metal I will need to use in the hilt but still keep the weight tolerable. For a sword of this type I would image a PoB of around 4 inches to be ideal?

Pictures are too large so here are links:

http://i48.tinypic.com/euq9ds.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/sbk65z.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/5tyw6p.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/sdgyrr.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/212ir6w.jpg

In the picture of the tang, you can see the dark black on the left. The entire blade was in that condition from the heat-treatment. I sanded the whole thing by hand for about an hour, that removed almost all of it. I then ground the bevels with a bench sander for about 1.5 hours. In the picture of the edge, that is AFTER sanding. Before it was perhaps 25% thicker. I'm thinking another 4-5 hours will get the edges to the right section.

My bottom guard near the pommel is of course too small. The grip length is 3.8 inches. My hands are a little small, about 3.5 inches of grip is a perfect fit.

Hope this helps....

Cheers,

Brian

[M. Curk]

Thanks for the pictures and other advices! When I decide to order I will certainly buy the type XVIII blade, luckily it is not more expensive than the other.

Cheers
Miha