Looking for sword dimensions (from Musee de l`Armee)
Hello, I want to order exact replica of the sword from Musee de l`Armee.
Unfortunately there is no information about this sword. Maybe someone of you can help me.
Maybe in some book was description with dimensions?
Please help me - this is very important for me.
Here you have only picture I have:
[ Linked Image ]
and description address: http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchZ.aspx?...6NU0I7FHXQ
Or maybe you know some very similar other swords with full dimensions... it would be helpful.
Based on similar examples I would guess- Blade length- 85-90cm, blade width at base- 5-5.5cm, grip length 16-18cm, cross- 20-23cm, pommel about 5cm diameter, maybe 3-4 cm thick, blades like this are usually fairly thin towards the tip but can be anywhere from 5-8mm thick at the base. Hopefully these ballpark figures are of some help. If you are having a swordsmith of good reputation make the sword for you, it is often a good idea to give him (or her?) some latitude when it comes to dimensions anyway.
Thank you Scott. yes, I think it will be something like this.
I have made some computer simulation with blade lenght 86cm.
here we have the results:
totall lenght 1077mm
blade lenght 860mm
blade width 58mm
pommel 54x52mm
cross 197x10mm
fuller lenght 526mm
grip (handle without pommel) 143mm

... and the rest of dimensions will be I suppose:
weight circa 1250-1350gr
point of balance circa 110-130mm from the cross
pommel deep 38-40mm
blade thickness 6-7mm to 3mm

So, what do you think about this?
... and final project for bladesmith.
any suggestions?
[ Linked Image ]
Sorry I never got back to you. Looks fantastic and I look forward to future updates.
http://www.odinblades.com/

john lundemo
its going to be pricey but worth it
David Lewis Smith wrote:
http://www.odinblades.com/

john lundemo
its going to be pricey but worth it


I would choose a smith who concentrates specifically and primarily on historical pieces such as A&A, Jeff Helmes, or Robert Moc.

Leo Todeschini may be another choice, but I haven't seen him produce an earlier example like this, though I am sure he could if put to the task.

Robert Moc might make the most sense as you are in Poland and he is in Czech Republic.
Maciej K. wrote:
... and final project for bladesmith.
any suggestions?
[ Linked Image ]


Maciej,

If you look closely, you'll notice the point of your modelled sword is not the same as the point on the original sword. If you are looking for an exact replica, I would change this.

I too would advise a smith who focuses on historical arms. I know John Lundemo does nice work, but historical accuracy is not his strongest point.
I have to agree about the point of the sword. These quite angular points are actually not uncommon on original swords and show up in a lot of period art, yet for some reason they tend to get ignored or replaced by more rounded points on modern replicas.
The other thing I've noticed is that the rivet block on the end of the antique pommel is much more pronounced. The one in your model is flatter. I prefer the appearance of the original sword; the slightly assymetrical pyramid block is what gives the sword part of its character. At any rate, I would lengthen the rivet block on your model if you want a precise replica.
Craig Peters wrote:
The other thing I've noticed is that the rivet block on the end of the antique pommel is much more pronounced. The one in your model is flatter. I prefer the appearance of the original sword; the slightly assymetrical pyramid block is what gives the sword part of its character. At any rate, I would lengthen the rivet block on your model if you want a precise replica.


Yes, I noticed that about the rivet block as well. I like a pronounced rivet block.
cross guard
I could be wrong, but it seems that the cross guard has a ridge at its center. See the difference in light from one side to the other, and the straight line formed in the middle?
Craig Peters wrote:
Maciej K. wrote:
... and final project for bladesmith.
any suggestions?
[ Linked Image ]


Maciej,

If you look closely, you'll notice the point of your modelled sword is not the same as the point on the original sword. If you are looking for an exact replica, I would change this.

To me the original looks like it has seen quite a bit of honing. The tip may have had a different profile when new.

I do agree with Ricardo that the cross seems to have a ridge at the center.

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