Posts: 237 Location: Arlington, VA
Wed 04 Jan, 2012 4:28 am
Timo Nieminen wrote: |
Might be a bit too light. I think a two-hander trainer should be at least 2kg, or at least, you should use a trainer of at least 2kg at least some of the time (perhaps not for sparring - lighter is safer if sparring). A big part of learning to use a two-hander properly is learning to move efficiently and effectively with a 2-3.5kg sword. Which, I think, one doesn't get so easily from a lightweight trainer. |
While I don't disagree, it can be difficult to get students to drop $600+ on a trainer right away, and a Montante-sized wooden trainer is close enough that many of the issues arise still that you encounter with steel (i.e. dealing with the longer length, greater mass, and the quillons). Of course, as soon as you start doing drills with blade-to-blade contact, the differences are quite distinct (there's no substitute for steel). However, I think you're better off buying a cheap (~$100) wooden trainer and saving for a good steel trainer than buying a discount steel trainer. All of the under $600 steel trainers I've handled (that are easily available in the US) just aren't worth the money (IMHO) as they aren't really balanced that well and/or aren't really designed as "trainers".
Steve
Posts: 1,504 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Fri 06 Jan, 2012 3:27 pm
For solo drill, DIY is the cheap option. A $100 waster might be easier, but probably not cheaper, unless you go for very fancy DIY. The problem of good steel trainers is bigger problem here (i.e., Australia), since we have fewer local manufacturers, and importing something that size is rather expensive.
I should make a new DIY trainer (my old was converted into an SCA polearm). But I need to make more space before it's really worthwhile. Large backyard, but trees and clotheslines restrict the two-handed space.
Posts: 113 Location: Colonie, NY
Fri 06 Jan, 2012 4:56 pm
There are actually a number of practice groups in Florida.
http://www.communitywalk.com/THE-HEMA-ALLIANC...-81.2NbF10
Posts: 115 Location: Arcadia, FL
Fri 06 Jan, 2012 6:16 pm
Thank you Jim. I think I have found a forum in Ft. Myers, FL. which does German combat.
Posts: 145 Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Fri 20 Jan, 2012 11:39 pm
You can learn longsword by yourself, though it takes dedecation and disapline..plus lots of research, I started with a windlass waster, but soon felt that steel was a better option so I got an Albion Liechtenauer. When I got people interested into longsword, I got hold off some USA oak and turned-out a stack of wasters...as for space, you can actually drill within your living room! Although you are limited to unterhaus, mittlehaus, thrusts, Zwerchaus etc.. just no oberhaus, zornhaus etc.! unless you do the high wards/strike from holding a low postition. Really all you need is a space where you can strike from left to right without smashing something, along with having a limited space it can help with distance and awareness of where your point is. If you have a restricted space ie height/ width a shorted waster (blade) is handy as you'll still get the idea of useing two hands, and you won't hit obbstructions, plus if your using it against a pell and striking near the middle of your blade (the strong), when you come to a full sized blade you will be striking (presumedily) with the strong/middle of your sword.. good luck.
Posts: 462 Location: Cape Cod, MA
Tue 24 Jan, 2012 9:25 am
I have decided to learn the Spadone / Montante as my breadth weapon in my SSG class so I have ordered Kens book, and written both Purpleheart armory and New Stirling Arms about possible wasters. I will keep you updated as things develop.
Posts: 462 Location: Cape Cod, MA
Fri 03 Feb, 2012 6:27 pm
After further discussion with my instructor we I realized that at some point I would have to "defend the field" with my breadth weapon as part of the testing process. We use synthetics to spar with so I have asked Christian if he would build a synthetic Montante waster. He agreed and we've been hashing out the details.
New sterling also makes a beautiful Montante with purpleheart accents, but as I mentioned I have chosen to go the synthetic route.
I've asked him, since he's already making it from scratch, to alter a couple features for me, and when they are finalized I'll pass on specifics. I have asked for it to be a little longer, and he is going see how the plastic behaves as he pushes the limit. At some point the plastic will have a tendency to lose rigidity. I also asked for parrying hooks that were incorporated into the blade instead of added on like on the hickory model. He has made them like that before so no problem. I am VERY excited to see how this turns out. One of the other practitioners has the purpleheart Mark II synthetic waster, and it is solid.
I've preordered Ken's book, and waiting for it to become available. Meantime I have been tentatively following along with the rules on YouTube using my greatsword waster. In light of the the cas factory being closed down for the time being and with the prices going up I impulsively ordered a lowlander from Manventure outpost for 220.00 shipped. They are only going up and it's the only piece of steel the right dimensions without making the jump to Arms and Armor Montante. I know about the narrow tang and hollow pommel but It should be good for going through the rules.
So that's it so far. More details and eventually some pics to follow.
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