[Jean Thibodeau]

Good advice from Jason about choosing and using files but here is another suggestion, use one of these diamond tungsten carbide tools or one of a similar type: Accusharp knife sharpener.

http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=...+Sharpener

I put an edge on the unsharpened edges of a Del Tin sword in one evening's work using one like this ( different brand ) and one could see curls of steel being shaved off at each stroke.

This is a very good way to rough out the new edge bevel maybe in combination with good files or if files are used a good way to remove the file marks before using finer hones to smooth and create the apple seed edge.

One good thing is that it's relatively easy to use safely and the angles of the cutting edges on the tool give you a very consistent secondary bevel angles.

Maybe where the notches as especially deep some special attention with the files to reprofile the edges a bit more creating maybe a dull flat and then using this tool on those spots to restore a bevel. Once all the really deep nicks are removed one can blend in the shallow waves in the blade by using a long single stroke with the above tool along the entire length of the edge on each side of the sword.

Anyway, whatever works works , but the using of files work better with some machinist's experience than in the hands of someone not to sure how to approach the work. ( Just saying that with anything practice makes perfect and for some people used to doing work with their hands this may be very easy to do, but other people are all thumbs with hand tools: So I think you are the only one who knows which method will work best for you. )

Mike I hope this is of help to you but I think all our suggestions are also helpful for others who may choose one of the different ways to approach sharpening or refurbishing a damaged sword or knife.

[JE Sarge]

I respectfully disagree with Jean...

I'd not take an Accusharp to anything I own, moreso since I learned to file/hone an edge. The angle is incorrect and you end up doing about the same, if not a greater amount of filing/honing to create a proper bevel. Additional, the Accusharp in my experience leaves a uneven, almost micro-serrated edge which differs in bevel angle on each side. I've spent many hours correcting edges that I made years ago with an Accusharp on some of my blades. I have long since banished them from my toolbox.

My advice is to just work with the files to the best of your ability, using an Accusharp will result a greater amount of work in the end in my experience.

[Christopher Treichel]

Got this tip from a guy, old enough to still remember using a sickle to clear fields...

I forget the name of the specific anvil they used something like Quaker or Pennsylvania anvil... used to repair sickles when they hit rocks in the field...

long story short... when you hit something harder than the edge of your sword it usually just moves the metal and does not cut it off...

so instead of filing that metal off... get a nicely polished hammer and a small anvil and hammer the nick back into place... it makes your sword, knife or sickle last longer.

[Christopher Treichel]

ok, so you don't think I am nuts... googled and found this on a site about sickles... scroll down to the section about peening.
http://www.thescytheshop.co.uk/product%20list.html

[Jeremy V. Krause]

[Mike Capanelli]