[Robert Hinds]

I was wondering if this nail in the link would be period enough to use to haft a glaive or halberd head?

http://secure.tremontnail.com/cgi-bin/tremont...mp;mv_pc=9

Thanks in advance.

[Christopher Finneman]

Seems to be on the thick side and may split the shaft easily.
I use just normal carpentry nails and cut them down a bit. And using a ball peen hammer you can peen over the head making it not look so modern.

[Robert Hinds]

That's very usefull thank you.

[Mark Routledge]

I have got hold of hand forged rose head nails from this place and used them for pinning on a shield boss and for holding on the hinges on a wooden chest very loosely based on the mastermyer tool chest.

www.suffolklatchcompany.co.uk

They look good, individual and forge black. I asked the head bloke politely and he mailed me a dozen or so. You might have to file the shank a little for your needs but might do the trick.

[Jean Thibodeau]

Good to drill a pilot hole for the nail to avoid stressing the wood and it's very difficult hammering in a nail without bending it when the haft is very hard wood inside a steel socket wall that won't give at all so that the wood grain has to be compressed and not just moved apart.

If the pilot hole is too big the nail will still be securely held by the wood. If the nail is a touch loose a drop of epoxy will hold the nail in and the nail will do it's main job of being an additional way to hold the polearm head in place in addition to a tight fit and the possible use of an adhesive ( Period or modern epoxy ...... should the head have to be taken off later heating to 250 degrees F. will make the epoxy let go and not be hot enough to damage the heat treat or burn the wood if the same haft is to be re-used ).

[Stephan Hall]

Just search ebay for forged nails or "geschmiedete Nägel" that's forged Nails in German. There are a lots of nails in German ebay but shipping might be a bit to expensive for your needs . Or just Try
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1152
http://www.sevenpinesforge.com/nails.html
http://www.horton-brasses.com/store/nails/wroughthead
I hope this will help you!!!
Stephan

[Robert Hinds]

Thank you for all the links! Some very promising nails there, and Jean thank you for mentioning the guide holes.

[Scott Hrouda]

[Robert Hinds]

Thanks Scott, I might end up going with that method since it's cheaper and modern day nails are alot more common.

[Jason Daub]

Robert,

The cut nail that you posted a picture of is actually a superior product to a wire nail for what you are trying to do. The nail has to be driven in with the flats parallel to the grain, when done this way it acts like a chisel and cuts through the wood fibres and bends them down in the direction of the nail travel. This acts like a featherboard and actually grips the nail tightly. If you look at older construction, be it furniture, flooring, or whatever that is using cut nails you will see that they have been driven directly into the wood very close to the end grain without any pilot holes or splitting. If you check wood working stores like Lee Valley you will be able to find rose head cut nails in several sizes, I am sure that they would have one to fit your project.

[Kel Rekuta]

If you read Waldman's book on hafted weapons, you will learn that the period pieces examined were fastened with clinch nails. Those decorative cut nails at the start of the thread have too much body in the shaft. Using them like rivets will eventually split the wood under blows, even predrilled. If its a parade and display piece, who cares? It you plan to hit anything with it.... prepare a second shaft while you have the jigs set up.