I did mine just using 2 or 3 straps. Without a log to pull around. I first started to pull it around a tree log, but it did work better with just applying tension through the straps. You can distribute the tension by using wooden bars as shown in Sanders pictures, but from what I have seen, you don´t necessarily need a press for ply wood shields. It may be a different matter in the plank construction of shields. I had the recommendation from this book: http://www.amazon.de/mittelalterliche-Reiters...=8-2-spell

I went to a wood store today and I picked up a sheet of Okoumé multiplex, which was recommended to me by the shop keeper after I explained what I wanted to do. It's supposed to be tougher than birch but it should bend with less internal stress, so less spring back. On the flip side, its almost 50% more expensive. I'll let you know how it goes.

The first shield (the birch one) has been covered with canvas and is now ready for painting (pics to follow). But I have a question about colours.

What colours were available early to mid 13th century? And how deep/bright would they be? I'm specifically interested in red, white (for my Hospitaller shield) and black (because my family arms are black and white). Were they really as bright red & white and as pitch black as modern paints are?

I did some searching on this forum but most topic seem to be about colouring leather.

Thanks in advance!

Thanks! I can read German. I'll see if I can get my hands on that book.

Nice.
Uncovered cloth edges, even thick ones, will fray quite a lot after beeing used a while; for durability I've found that it is better to apply the rawhide on top of the cloth cover. Rawhide is also easier to replace.
Historical shields did not have reinforced rims, so the apperance is tecnically a bit of. However, it is better to have a shield with impropper rims than a shield that is falling appart (This can also be risky for the people you figth...)

The important thing about plywood is that it is only flexible one way; if you cut it the wrong way, you might end up with a blank that won't bend. (I've got a couple of 60x60 heaters that where the result of this :P )

How do you plan on arranging the straps and guige?

I also found a website called Pigments through the ages that looks extremely useful. It even lists C.I. numbers for all the colors. Now all I need to do is map those to modern paint colors. But between Lead White, Vermillion and Bone Black I think that I can paint my shields in quite striking bright and deep colours.

i wouldn't suggest bellys. they tend to stretch over time. i sometimes order a wide belt blank and then cut them into the proper width strips i want.

The A option looks good. I've got "Reitershild", and it seems that the strap arrangements where quite individualized in the high middle ages.

One thing that seems to be neglected in most sugested strap reconstructions is that the knightly shield would, most of the time, be worn suspended on the guige while the user is mounted. A guige attatched towards the center of the shield, like the one on example A, will rest against the upper arm, and thus follow the movement of the user. A corner-to-corner guige, on the other hand, will be highly disadvantageous unless you have a dedicated upper arm strap.
With a propperly adjusted and fitted guige, you can even fight decently without using the rear arm straps.

I've curently got two heaters, a 60x60 with a suspenision based on Edward the Confessor, and a 60x90 loosely based on "Reitershield" and experience. The 60x60 has a horisontal strap that goes across the overarm, the 60x90 a centraly attatched guige.

A crappy picture of the back of the 60x60
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In use;
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the 60X90 In use;
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That's also a nice strapping option, thanks.

One more question: What will make my shield stronger? Applying gesso on the canvas or applying normal primer? I have never used gesso so I have no idea what it is or what it's like, but I have seen several shield building articles refer to it. PS: I intend to paint my shield using normal Acryllic/Latex-y paint, not milk paint or tempura.