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Jean Thibodeau
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 Posted: Mon 11 Jan, 2010 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Matthew Stagmer wrote: |
Jean,
I like cold bluing too. In this case it was important to both the author of the book and to Ed to have the blade blued in a "forge" or heat blued because the story says it is. Last time I used a cold blue I found that a scotchbrite pad worked great. I will have to try the sponge. Sounds like it would work great. |
Sanding sponge or scotchbrite would be about the same to me with a thick softer sponge giving more range in pressure from very light to heavy.
I also dilute the bluing paste with water when I want to build up a finish from very light to deeper bluing i.e. darker less water but one can also just darken by repeated applications. If one has done the bluing oneself one sort of can duplicate the amount of bluing and if one has rubbed too hard one darkens and if the retouching is too dark lighten by using more pressure.
What is nice is that one doesn't have to even degrease a blade to do this as the process blues and abrades at the same time so any greasy spots get sanded out and blued all in one pass.
It takes just a little practice to get a feel for this. Hope this tip is helpful to you or for anyone with a DIY project.
The hot bluing is much deeper and much more resistant to wear but when it does wear reheating to restore just isn't practical and although one might retouch with cold blue blending is difficult getting the same colour or matching lightness or darkness. The cold blue can also harm the area next to the touch up by removing some of the hot blue at the edges of the attempted blending ...... so except for very mall high spots cold blue has it's limitations.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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