I would like to display the three projects I'm currently pursuing, in the hope to have some input from you.

The first are my mail gauntlets, based on a pair of crust gloves buy on ebay by a English vendor, the mail is 1,5mm galvanized steel, the links are 8mm of ID. I used a nylon-cotton wire (the one used normally for the salami) to bind them: it is very similar to a wool wire and much more resistant to the steel-corrosion.
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The second is my long awaited one-handed mace: 95 cm of iron bits, cruelty and cherry wood... I know, I know, it's not the best wood for a similar work, but it took me two days to fell down that b...d tree: this mace is my way to repay it. With the interests. The photos isn't perfect: the head is much bigger but unfortunately I took it in section (and yes, the foot is mine)
[ Linked Image ]

The last work is the one I'm more troubled by: my short falchion that I decide to redo, at least the grip. At the same time I would like to rub away the shininess of the stainless steel (I bought it for 30€ at a local store, I cannot pretend much): someone has an idea that don't include galvanisation, electrolysis or expensive enamels?
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All comments, even the more corrosive, are accepted, and thanks for all!

As for removing the shininess of the stainless, try using a rough grit sandpaper and then increasing the grit until you get the finish that you want. Be sure to sand only in one direction. Cross hatched marks from sandpaper are really tough to get rid of. As to a new grip, there are lots of tutorials that can run you through that better than I can. just search for knife making or sword grip tutorials.

Hope I helped. :)

You could also check out the instant antique article on myArmoury by Sean Flynt: http://www.myArmoury.com/feature_antique.html

For the cherry wood I used for the mace: as soon as I had remove the bark it began splitting, but a good dose of vinavil and sawdust blocked the process, giving it a good durability. I tested it against the concrete of the floor without any damage to the mace. Now I decided to give to the other piece of wood (the grip of the falchion, a saw-table and the components for a wood mallet) the time to dry before removing the bark.

I will try the mustard for the stainless steel when I can give it some time (the preparation of the gauntlets require a good part of my free time).

I applied a generous amount of vinegar and salt over the blade of my falchion and exposed it for a week. This are the results:[ Linked Image ]

And after a brief scratch with fine sandpaper:

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I was hoping for a more pronunced degrading, but this reduced well in the acceptable the shyness without compromising the strength of the blade.

Now I'm working on the grip: I'm thinking of use a black-enameled copper wire (0,5mm) that I have lying somewhere under a rough cord like in the Diaper Pattern displayed by Oakeshott... For now I can confirm that cherrywood take a lot to dry.

Beautiful gloves! What size of rings do you use?

I worked the cherrywood grip, and really the wood is very simple to work with, even for a newbie like me, but the final result don't convince me. I would like some inputs...
Maybe it would be better with a simple leather grip.

[ Linked Image ]

And for the wood? maybe a semi-transparent protective color?

At the end I completed the sword with a piece of leather over the wood. When I can take some photographs I will post them.

I had some success with a bluing project for the company: they buyed some kgs of all-iron rings some years ago, and they rusted very quickly. So I took them, sanded them with the dremel and then blued them in the closed fireplace of my home. The final effect it's good, even if its a very difficult process. One batch of mail overcooked and greyed :lol: .

I will post how they fare against rust during the next summer...

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Blued mail