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William Carew




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PostPosted: Thu 04 Jun, 2009 1:44 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sean Flynt wrote:
Some possibilities/inspiration:


Hi Sean!

Do you know where that last image (with the longsword over the back, in a Zornhut/Post di Donna position) is from? I found it very interesting in style, and would like to see the whole thing.

BTW, rain guards are really cool. I wish makers would include them more often on their swords. I'm looking forward to seeing your next project.

Cheers,

Bill

Bill Carew
Jogo do Pau Brisbane
COLLEGIUM IN ARMIS
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Nat Lamb




Location: Melbourne, Australia
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PostPosted: Fri 05 Jun, 2009 12:18 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

this project and its updates are a real inspiration to get off my, errr, couch, and back to the workshop. Awsome work.
As an asside, due to your profile pic I have an image of you doing all your work in a suit and tie, which adds something rather awsome to the whole scene.
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Fri 05 Jun, 2009 11:28 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Nat Lamb wrote:
As an aside, due to your profile pic I have an image of you doing all your work in a suit and tie


Well...yeah. Doesn't everybody? The down side--that suit used be white.

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Fri 05 Jun, 2009 11:48 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

William Carew wrote:
Sean Flynt wrote:
Some possibilities/inspiration:


Hi Sean!

Do you know where that last image (with the longsword over the back, in a Zornhut/Post di Donna position) is from? I found it very interesting in style, and would like to see the whole thing.


I can't give you a direct URL, but it's from this site:
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonline/

It's a decapitation martyrdom (St. Catherine?). The sword position is typical for such scenes and the sword itself is a commonly depicted type. This painting is more stylized than most, so that's something to be wary of. Date is approx. 1500.

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Mon 08 Jun, 2009 11:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I scrapped all the leather--grip, chappe and scabbard cover. Eek!

The color was a mess and I was already thinking that I wouldn't peen the tang so I could redo everything later. That's no good. I want to finish this thing properly. So, last night I re-wrapped the grip in good-old black. Tonight I'll cut and dye a new chappe.

Chamois glued to a wooden scabbard core or sword grip does not come off easily, by the way. Big Grin

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Felix R.




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PostPosted: Mon 08 Jun, 2009 11:54 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Sean, what kind of leather dye did you use?
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Mon 08 Jun, 2009 12:37 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I'm using Fiebing's leather dye.

http://www.fiebing.com

It's good stuff. The problems were of my own creation. First, I should have rinsed the leather to clear excess dye. Next, I shouldn't have waxed the leather until I was sure I liked the color. Next, after I decided against the red I shouldn't have tried to re-dye the leather in place through the wax. I dyed the wax, basically, and that led to a mottled red-and-black look, with the black easily coming off on the hand or cloth. I don't have many regrets, though. I got the overlap of the grip wrap wrong (I think it should fall under the fingertips and pull in the direction of the wrap) and forgot to position the excess leather at the lower end of the grip so that the tongues of leather to be sewn to the chappe are the full width of the grip. At the time I decided I could live with these flaws, but they were already bothering me. So, there were plenty of reasons to start over.

After dyeing the new grip wrap last night I rinsed it thoroughly. No bleeding problems. When binding it to the grip I noticed that the glue was mixing with some of the red dye left on the grip core, making a pink mess where the cord squeezed it out at the bottom of the grip. So, maybe the red dye isn't quite as stable as the black(?).

I'll be removing the cord tonight, when the leather and glue should be quite dry. If the cord is removed too quickly the leather can spring back a bit, reducing the depth of the cord marks.

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 6:51 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Better. The grip is ready for stitching. Again. Big Grin


 Attachment: 91.21 KB
grip.gif


-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Felix R.




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PostPosted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 8:02 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Nice, I wish I could get a reasonable priced Windlass here in Germany. When I compare prices to Kult of Athena, you pay hte $ in € plus about 20€. Then a windlass isn´t that reasonable priced anymore.
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 8:36 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Felix R. wrote:
Nice, I wish I could get a reasonable priced Windlass here in Germany. When I compare prices to Kult of Athena, you pay hte $ in € plus about 20€. Then a windlass isn´t that reasonable priced anymore.


It does seem to be hard to find (reasonably priced) Windlass products in Europe.
This site has some of the better old designs:

http://www.rautaportti.fi/aseet/miekat/miekat.htm

As I understand it, this company has a special arrangement with Windlass. The prices are certainly not as good as in the US. That might be due to protectionist import taxes but it might also be due to better quality control.

I still think the answer, while the Euro is still beating the Dollar, is to plan a nice vacation in the US, buy as many Windlass products as you can carry, take them home and sell enough of them to cover the cost of the ones you keep.

Better yet, watch the Deal of the Day page at MRL. Those items are typically half-price. Even with international shipping you'd probably be better off than buying Windlass in Europe.

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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M. Eversberg II




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PostPosted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 12:30 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Then he'd have to ship all those windlasses back home, which is probably going to be a killer :S

M.

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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 1:29 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

M. Eversberg II wrote:
Then he'd have to ship all those windlasses back home, which is probably going to be a killer :S

M.


The idea is that you would buy only as much as you could take home as checked baggage. Two checked bags at under 50 lbs each is a typical allowance on international flights. If you pack light enough to take your clothes, etc. as carry-on baggage (or slow-ship that lightweight stuff back home,) you'll have two bags/boxes and 100 lbs to work with. Five swords and 12.5 lbs per box should be quite manageable. The bigger problem might be that you'd outspend your duty-free allowance with ten swords and have to pay taxes on returning home. But then, I'm not sure I could name ten Windlass swords I want. I guess I'd just get 10 of the Erbach swords. Laughing Out Loud

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Sergej Nabukov





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PostPosted: Sat 13 Jun, 2009 12:34 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Do you have a baby to go with it?
Hehe. Razz

Sergej
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Julien M




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PostPosted: Sat 13 Jun, 2009 1:34 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sean Flynt wrote:
The idea is that you would buy only as much as you could take home as checked baggage.


lol. Well, I have given a lot of thoughts about this issue because I can't bring myself to buy a windlass through a european dealer because they are obviously overpriced. The fact that they are ideal candidates for upgrades make the issue a recurrent one for me. Windlass is probably the most dynamic compagny around, with a huge amount of new offerings, and arresting bargains are offered through their website. In short I'm always tempted by their swords. I remember paying 70 euros + full VAT on my towton, which was around $200 to start with. So all in all, for europe, a windlass is on the $300 or more price tag...and for that price, better deals can be found elsewhere, with custom european makers. So no higgins sword for me, but a custom from Mark vickers, barely more expensive.

Too bad you had an issue with the red dye Sean, it was a pleasant change of colour (your black grip is great too though).
Are you planning to give the rain guard a specific shape or stamp something on it? I will probably try this with my next sword (a very broad type XVIII based on the castillon find), and will probably try to go for a moulded shell rain guard...but maybe it's just wishful thinking Happy


Cheers,

J
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M. Eversberg II




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PostPosted: Sat 13 Jun, 2009 4:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sean Flynt wrote:
M. Eversberg II wrote:
Then he'd have to ship all those windlasses back home, which is probably going to be a killer :S

M.


The idea is that you would buy only as much as you could take home as checked baggage. Two checked bags at under 50 lbs each is a typical allowance on international flights. If you pack light enough to take your clothes, etc. as carry-on baggage (or slow-ship that lightweight stuff back home,) you'll have two bags/boxes and 100 lbs to work with. Five swords and 12.5 lbs per box should be quite manageable. The bigger problem might be that you'd outspend your duty-free allowance with ten swords and have to pay taxes on returning home. But then, I'm not sure I could name ten Windlass swords I want. I guess I'd just get 10 of the Erbach swords. Laughing Out Loud


You can bring swords on a flight? I remember they used to take away nail care kits and things of that nature!

M.

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Felix R.




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PostPosted: Sat 13 Jun, 2009 6:45 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You are not allowed to take it in the hand luggage.
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Mon 15 Jun, 2009 7:33 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Julien M wrote:
Sean Flynt wrote:
The idea is that you would buy only as much as you could take home as checked baggage.
Too bad you had an issue with the red dye Sean, it was a pleasant change of colour (your black grip is great too though).
Are you planning to give the rain guard a specific shape or stamp something on it? I will probably try this with my next sword (a very broad type XVIII based on the castillon find), and will probably try to go for a moulded shell rain guard...but maybe it's just wishful thinking Happy


I got enough taste of the red to decide that it wasn't for me. Fortunately, my collection is so small that the monochrome doesn't get boring (my general rule is "one in, one out" and I'm also saving for an EBE commission so I'll be selling that Angus Trim/Windlass mashup I finished awhile back).

I haven't yet decided about decoration of the chappe. As far as I can tell these were almost always decorated in some fashion. I still like the idea of stars and wasn't satisfied with the pattern I used for my Dürer makeover. I'm already planning to re-do that grip, so I've considered taking another run at the stars with this current project. I'm not sure stamping is worth the effort, though. Even from a short distance it's hard to see the design. If the point is to break up the black, there should be color, appliques, etc.

I did some experimenting with gold paint last night. That's one way to go--just paint the stars. It seems to be quite durable. The design would have to be very subtle to avoid breaking up the lines of the sword. I made a thin border along the lower edges of the chappe and I'm inclined just to paint that gold and maybe use brass for the scabbard chape, just to provide some color. This scheme would complement my sallet, too.Big Grin

Part of my hesitation to decorate the chappe is that I find the cross and pommel so attractive. With all-black leather there's nothing to lead the eye away from those elements.

-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Mon 29 Jun, 2009 9:10 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

The sword is finished but I want to finish the scabbard before raising the curtain on the project. I need to make a chape and a buckle. The buckle is easy. The chape is a challenge. I've experimented with a clay model (see photos below) but I'm not sure what gauge steel to use. I have 16, which seems too thick, and 22, which seems to thin. That argues for 18 or 20, I guess. Any thoughts on the gauge of historical chapes? For those interested, note that the photos below are in the correct order--I rolled out a thin sheet of clay, pressed that onto the scabbard tip, trimmed the clay to shape then cut it down the back and unfolded it. This form will be traced onto light foam sheet to create a pattern. I'm not sure I'll keep the design as shown. I'll probably exaggerate the cutout a bit to make it more gothic. As always, I welcome your comments and questions.


 Attachment: 115.4 KB
chape.gif


 Attachment: 114.21 KB
chapeopen.gif


-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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Etienne Hamel




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PostPosted: Tue 30 Jun, 2009 9:12 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

did you think of trying to make your chape with paterns like on some gothic armors (sorry for the english)

here is what im trying to say by paterns on gothic armors: http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images...armour.jpg
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Sean Flynt




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PostPosted: Tue 30 Jun, 2009 11:31 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I do want a gothic look for this chape, which, to me, means deep curves and cutouts. The linden/heart motif was one option for the cutout. The trefoil/clover was another. I'll most likely just elaborate on the simple design I have here, deepening the curves and maybe rounding the cutout a bit, as seen on the knife scabbard chape below. My sword is not meant to be a high-status weapon, so I don't want to do anything too elaborate with the chape.


 Attachment: 67.67 KB
chape.gif


-Sean

Author of the Little Hammer novel

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Hammer-Sean-Flynt/dp/B08XN7HZ82/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=little+hammer+book&qid=1627482034&sr=8-1
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