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If you could have a suit o' maile, which would it be?
Vendel Period please!
6%
 6%  [ 3 ]
Lorica Hamata honey!
4%
 4%  [ 2 ]
Maciejowski Bible baby!
47%
 47%  [ 21 ]
Viking/Norman now!
36%
 36%  [ 16 ]
Maile? Meh.
4%
 4%  [ 2 ]
Total Votes : 44

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Sam Gordon Campbell




Location: Australia.
Joined: 16 Nov 2008

Posts: 678

PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 1:50 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Haha thread necromancy! Laughing Out Loud

Well, I decided (after much deliberation) to take the galv off with the vinegar method, and as you can see by the pictures, it did what we all knew it was going to do! So, so far so good! I Soaked it for 18 hours or so.
Now good sirs a further question if I may; What would be a good way of removing this lovely rust? I know that one could put it in a bag, but 15kgs of metal and sand, methinks it may be a tad heavy. Worried
I thought rent a cement mixer for 24 hours and set it on slow or what not.
Also, is there a recomended sand grit I should use, 'cause currently I got some clean sand from the beach and picked out the bark and such, it's still got some shell grit in there, but if chickens can eat it, I hope it wouldn't affect metal.

T'anks again guys.

Sam.

P.S. The chemical reaction look pretty cool. And yes, I held my breath when I looked Happy



 Attachment: 57.51 KB
Picture 97.jpg
Sorry aboot the shoddy quality...

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Picture 97 (1).jpg
I'm not sure how to go about doing the helmet, 'tis a work in progress...

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Host of Crash Course HEMA.
Founder of The Van Dieman's Land Stage Gladiators.
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Gabriele A. Pini




Location: Olgiate Comasco, Como
Joined: 02 Sep 2008

Posts: 239

PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 2:48 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sam, you can compete with Vecna.

For the rust, I had seen using sand-guns for very hard jobs (like the sanding of a tank), but maybe you can have access to one small...

A cement mixer (if you can find one without the internal blades) can be a good idea, or you can use a cask or a barrel and start a run competion between the bystanders during a fair (you can always count on the will "to be medieval" of some naives Laughing Out Loud ).

For the shell grit, I doubt very much it can affect the steel much more than the sand. Certanly you don't expect to have a shiny and spotless look to all yours rings after the sanding, no?
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Sam Gordon Campbell




Location: Australia.
Joined: 16 Nov 2008

Posts: 678

PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 4:20 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Cheers Gabriele, and no, I certainly don't expect that Laughing Out Loud
I should probably say that I'm going to spray the buggery out of it with WD40, which is an anti-rust lubricant spray.
And also, can anyone give me the aprox. time it might take to get a good clean with any method?
I assume one would have to change the sand after a while, if not, I'll do it anyway, I didn't lug two sandbags home for nothing! Cool
Woohoo, over 100 posts! When did that happen! Laughing Out Loud

Member of Australia's Stoccata School of Defence since 2008.
Host of Crash Course HEMA.
Founder of The Van Dieman's Land Stage Gladiators.
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
Joined: 15 Mar 2004
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Spotlight topics: 5
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PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 6:58 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sam Gordon Campbell wrote:
Cheers Gabriele, and no, I certainly don't expect that Laughing Out Loud
I should probably say that I'm going to spray the buggery out of it with WD40, which is an anti-rust lubricant spray.
And also, can anyone give me the aprox. time it might take to get a good clean with any method?
I assume one would have to change the sand after a while, if not, I'll do it anyway, I didn't lug two sandbags home for nothing! Cool
Woohoo, over 100 posts! When did that happen! Laughing Out Loud


WD40 is great for cleaning a blade but I've read that for rust protection it's not the best as it evaporates and stop being protective.

My preference is to use a good Teflon particle firearm oil that has good anti rust properties. ( The Teflon fills in the pores of the metal ).

Some dry lubricants are also good as they also leave a protective film but don't " grease up " a blade or even worse for maille that will really be messy if covered in heavy oil on a gambison.

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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M. Eversberg II




Location: California, Maryland, USA
Joined: 07 Sep 2006
Reading list: 3 books

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PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 9:31 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Get a cherry cask and fill it half with sand, half with the armor. Then roll it down a steep hill. This is one way of doing things.

M.

This space for rent or lease.
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Peter Remling





Joined: 28 May 2004

Posts: 50

PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 4:15 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

There is an easier and more fun way.

Take your maille, put it in a goodly sized box, add sand or even cat litter. Go to your local park. With a roll of duct tape adhere the box and contents to one end of a seesaw. Either you or the kids, hop on the other end and have some fun. Check periodically, but you should have good results after 1/2 hour to 45 minutes.
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Eric W. Norenberg





Joined: 18 Jul 2008

Posts: 271

PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 9:19 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello Sam,
I made myself a, well, basically a shawl out of galvanised wire some years ago (to accent a leather jacket I'd hacked one arm off of - yeah, watched "Highlander" too many times - I do a mean Kurgan voice impression, too, despite being about 14" shorter than Clancy...), stripped the galv. off using vinegar, then cleaned off the rust simply by "kneading" the thing around in some fine play sand for an hour or so, while chatting with friends. Kind of that "wax on, wax off" hand motion. Really didn't take very long, but I was only working with one layer. When I finally got tired of powdery red rust sifting down from my shoulders, I dismounted the mail, gave it a light cleaning just to knock off the loose stuff, and "sealed" it by letting the mail warm up in the sun, then thoroughly working a beeswax candle all over it and into it. That took some time, got my hands all grungy, but in the end the mail took on a burnished color just slightly redder than chocolate brown, and never seemed to corrode any further (despite being worn in all kinds of weather while motorcycling). Plus, girls loved the way I smelled (a welcome change!).

Best,
Eric W. Norenberg
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Gabriele A. Pini




Location: Olgiate Comasco, Como
Joined: 02 Sep 2008

Posts: 239

PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 11:49 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Eric, the beeswax you use in what form? Solid, liquified or you start from a candle (I doubt, being made for the most from paraffin)?
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Reinier van Noort





Joined: 13 Dec 2006

Posts: 165

PostPosted: Fri 26 Jun, 2009 11:58 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sam Gordon Campbell wrote:

Also, is there a recomended sand grit I should use, 'cause currently I got some clean sand from the beach and picked out the bark and such, it's still got some shell grit in there, but if chickens can eat it, I hope it wouldn't affect metal.


I can't help you with the grain size; finer grained sand sands of less material, so it takes longer but the result looks nicer. What I do want to say is that you might want to wash your beach sand in water (fresh water) to get the salt out. Salt particles attract moisture, and when left on metal they cause very rapid oxidation/rust. The shell particles should be mainly calciumcarbonate (I think in the aragonite form), and thus harmless to your maille.

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Bram Verbeek





Joined: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 217

PostPosted: Sat 27 Jun, 2009 12:16 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I had a fine grit of aquarium sand I now use to get the rust off.
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Eric W. Norenberg





Joined: 18 Jul 2008

Posts: 271

PostPosted: Sun 28 Jun, 2009 11:18 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Gabriele A. Pini wrote:
Eric, the beeswax you use in what form? Solid, liquified or you start from a candle (I doubt, being made for the most from paraffin)?


Gabriele-

I actually used a pure beeswax candle, found at a local medieval reenactment faire, appropriately enough. I started out by simply rubbing the candle over the links, with light pressure, if I recall correctly. It as a sunny, warm day, and the warm mail and my warm hands softened the candle considerably. I just worked the softened wax into the links, doing one small area at a time.

Best,
Eric
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Gabriele A. Pini




Location: Olgiate Comasco, Como
Joined: 02 Sep 2008

Posts: 239

PostPosted: Mon 29 Jun, 2009 1:44 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I think I can get my hands on some tabernacle's candles... They must be of pure wax.
Thanks for the info, I have some galvanized project that I would like to maintain shiny.
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