Type XVII Redux
I've been gradually upgrading this sword- first sharpening it with a 'rolled' edge without secondary edge bevels, then a black leather wrap on the handle and now a brown wrap. I've also engraved a 'Cross Potent' in the pommel similar to the one inlaid on the pommel of XVII.5 from 'records.'

Though this type of sword is primarily a 'stabbing' type I have used it very successfully on light targets- though good technique is required and naturally it doesn't cut as well as specialized cutting swords.

Here are some pics of the 'revised' sword- particularly the hilt and handle.
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That takes long and pointy to a whole different level... and with a full convex grind... :eek:
Great work as always.
Gee, looks like it could get through someone up to the guard with no effort at all. Great work on this one!

How thick is the blade at the base?
Hugo Voisine wrote:
Gee, looks like it could get through someone up to the guard with no effort at all. Great work on this one!

How thick is the blade at the base?


This one is .260 inch at the base.
Well I just got this one in hand this morning and first here are the statistics copy/pasted from Tinker's web site, this way I don't have to measure or weight anything and I'm sure the statistics about pivot points and stuff will be accurate. ;)

Oakeshott Type: XVII
Overall Length: 44-7/8 inches
Blade Length: 33-7/8 inches
Blade width @ Base: 1-3/4 inches
Blade Width 3 inches from point: 1/2 inch
Blade Thickness @ Base: .260 inch
Blade Thickness 2 inches from Point: .170 inch
Hilt Overall Length: 11 inches
Length of Handle: 8-5/8 inches
Guard Type: 1, curved
Pommel Type: H1
Center of Gravity: 3-1/2 inches from guard
Location of Blade Node (measured from Guard): 20 inches
Primary Hilt Node: approx. 1/2 inch from cross on handle
Weight: 3lbs 4 oz

Here are early subjective impressions:

This sword feels like a paradox of qualities that should be mutually exclusive but are present simultaneously: With a Center of gravity of 3 1/2" one would expect it to be a sword easy to move and pivot or transition from guard to guard, and it is ! But the blade also has a surprising amount of blade presence which I speculate would give cuts much more power than one would assume from a relatively narrow blade with a great deal of strait profile taper.

So we have here a sword that has the mass to give powerful cuts and the mass to be able to exploit when parrying or in the bind or winding and not a blade easily displaced by a light tap to the flats.

At 3lbs 4 oz it isn't a light sword but it's weight only seems to be there when held statically, when in motion it is a fast and lively sword one handed and super fast when held two handed.

As any new sword with a different feel than one is used to there is a period of adjustment to it's unique feel but the first second I held this sword brought a big goofy grin of pleasure instantly: I need to get acquainted to it better but it is definitely " Love at first sight ". ;) :D :cool: :cool: :cool:

The grind is basically a thick oval with a flat section for the first 20" of blade: The main bevels are convex over the entire length and curve without a secondary bevel to what seems like a zero edge or close to it ! In any case, at the very least a paper cutting edge. The cross section of this oval convex grind should give a very strongly supported edge even if it's a very sharp edge.

This is not my first " Tinker " as I have a small kiridashi Japanese work knife and a rondel dagger, but it is my first Tinker sword and I'm very impressed by the aesthetics but even more by the handling qualities.

Oh, and the sword was shipped in a sturdy guncase that " bonus " I can certainly use for transport of this or other swords when I go to my longsword group's by annual cutting parties. :D :cool:

Do I need to say that I am very pleased with this purchase. ;) :D :cool:
Most certainly not my type, but it's still very alluring. I would have liked to see how this one was made.

M.
M. Eversberg II wrote:
Most certainly not my type, but it's still very alluring. I would have liked to see how this one was made.

M.


In what particulars?
All of it, generally. You do stock removal, if I recall correctly, yes?

M.
Yes, I do stock removal. There is a complete description of how I make swords over at swordforum.com; it's a few years old but all of the essentials are pretty much the same.
Michael:

I assume you agree with my subjective impressions of handling the sword but if you think I got things wrong feel free to correct me or if I got thing right maybe explain a little why this sword behaves the way it does in more technical details.

The sword was certainly worth the original asking price, or even more, but with the weak economy the sales price was a lot easier to manage and I'm lucky it went to down to below my comfort zone and that I could buy it.

Best wishes.
Jean
No, I think that you described it well! Though this is really not a cutting type I had little difficulty cutting standard targets though I don't recall any one else having as good of luck with it. This isn't a popular sword type but I like them; I'm very glad that it has found a good and appreciative home.
It's like a giant needle made of awesome. The tip looks exceptionally fine, too.

M.
M. Eversberg II wrote:
It's like a giant needle made of awesome. The tip looks exceptionally fine, too.

M.


Yes but it has lots of meat on it until one gets to the last 1/4"- 1/2" inch or so the very tip is very needle like but well supported.

The tip should also give nasty tip cuts as well as penetrate soft targets with little resistance.

Even if a very narrow, with a thick diamond shape, the last inches of blade and the tip are very sharp. ( The first couple inches near the guard are just slightly less sharp, but the whole blade is sharp ).

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