Ok, maybe this should be a whole 'nother topic completely, but what do the numbers mean? 1045, 1060? One is harder than the other, I get that, but some searching on the internet gave me some wacky charts. How's 1065 compare?

(There is a $64 one on TrueSwords with such a blade. Of course, reading the reviews one person says he has seen it listed elsewhere as 1045...)

Last and perhaps most importantly, will a 1045er blade be likely to break from swinging and perhaps a little bottle cutting or is it just going to be a lousy sword that can't cut for crap and needs endless resharpening? I am getting the impression here that it is likely to be the latter (although cheaper always means greater risk, I understand that).

Sorry if I seem to be stupidly repeating myself over and over again. I just have a hard time making up my mind when people express several different opinions. Too sensitive, seeking approval from all.... AKA lame. :D

The difference between 1045 and 1060 is the amount of carbon in the steel. 1045 has about .45% carbon and 1060 is .60 carbon. For practical purposes, 1060 can be tempered harder than 1045. For practical purposes of what you want to do there isn't much difference. If anything the 1045 may be a little easier to sharpen and a little less brittle than the 1060. That's assuming that the blade maker tempers the blade in a way to make the most out of the steel.

Either are going to be a better choice than stainless which tends to be on the brittle to very brittle side. (That's why that one sword broke on the video - too brittle)