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Myles Mulkey





Joined: 31 Jul 2008

Posts: 250

PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 6:54 am    Post subject: Kragehul Sword Measurements         Reply with quote

Does anybody have measurements for Albion's old Kragehul Bog Sword? I would like to know how long the crossguard is. Any photos would be great too (of Albion's model or the original) Laughing Out Loud
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Arne Focke
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Location: near Munich, Germany
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PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 9:52 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Right now i am to lazy to sort through Albions site, which one is the "Kragehul"-sword?
With the picture i should be able to get the measurements for you out of the original publication of that dig. Happy

So schön und inhaltsreich der Beruf eines Archäologen ist, so hart ist auch seine Arbeit, die keinen Achtstundentag kennt! (Wolfgang Kimmig in: Die Heuneburg an der oberen Donau, Stuttgart 1983)
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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 10:08 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Arne Focke wrote:
Right now i am to lazy to sort through Albions site, which one is the "Kragehul"-sword?
With the picture i should be able to get the measurements for you out of the original publication of that dig. Happy


It's a discontinued sword from their First Gen lineup based on a bog find.

Happy

ChadA

http://chadarnow.com/
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C. Gadda





Joined: 20 Aug 2007

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PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 10:33 am    Post subject: Re: Kragehul Sword Measurements         Reply with quote

Myles Mulkey wrote:
Does anybody have measurements for Albion's old Kragehul Bog Sword? I would like to know how long the crossguard is. Any photos would be great too (of Albion's model or the original) Laughing Out Loud


Here are some measurements from old notes of mine, back when I was shopping for a sword and was racking and stacking a few together (ended up with the A&A GBS, but the Kragehul was a close contender). Anyway:

Price: $520
Weight: 3lbs 3oz
Overall Length: 35”
Blade Length: 29”
POB: 3.5”

I've also attached a pic of the Albion sword. Hope this helps!



 Attachment: 78.55 KB
behmer type III.jpg

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Myles Mulkey





Joined: 31 Jul 2008

Posts: 250

PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 1:59 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thank you all! This helps a lot. I still need measurements for that crossguard, though. It looks like it's shorter than crossguards of later migration era swords. Anyway. Big Grin Thanks again for the input.

P.S: In case you're wondering (not like you are but I'll tell you anyways) I'm taking an old wall hanger and making a hilt for it in this style. The blade is about the right length, but I need to make some modifications to it before I could really call it a Migration Era blade. I have a few salvaged brass pieces to use, but it's still going to have to be an "economy" model... In other words, lots of organic bits. That's why I need the measurements, but I'll probably guess at a few things, so don't break your neck looking for the details. I'll post pics hopefully in a couple of weeks when I finish it. Cheers.
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Ian Hutchison




Location: Louisiana / Nordrhein-Westholland
Joined: 27 Nov 2007

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PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 2:21 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Myles Mulkey wrote:
Thank you all! This helps a lot. I still need measurements for that crossguard, though. It looks like it's shorter than crossguards of later migration era swords. Anyway. Big Grin Thanks again for the input.

P.S: In case you're wondering (not like you are but I'll tell you anyways) I'm taking an old wall hanger and making a hilt for it in this style. The blade is about the right length, but I need to make some modifications to it before I could really call it a Migration Era blade. I have a few salvaged brass pieces to use, but it's still going to have to be an "economy" model... In other words, lots of organic bits. That's why I need the measurements, but I'll probably guess at a few things, so don't break your neck looking for the details. I'll post pics hopefully in a couple of weeks when I finish it. Cheers.


Using the other measurements and judging by sight, I'd say its around 4 inches wide, assuming the handle is 6 inches long.

'We are told that the pen is mightier than the sword, but I know which of these weapons I would choose.' - Adrian Carton de Wiart
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Myles Mulkey





Joined: 31 Jul 2008

Posts: 250

PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 4:58 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Ian Hutchison wrote:
Using the other measurements and judging by sight, I'd say its around 4 inches wide, assuming the handle is 6 inches long.

Four inches is perfect! The best piece of brass I've got is right at four inches long I think. I'll have to check when I get back home. It's a curved crossguard from a junker viking sword. I straightened it out and it has the right shape to it, so it's ready to go on. Laughing Out Loud Still, some more detailed pics of this sword would be a great help.
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Douglas G.





Joined: 30 Mar 2004

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PostPosted: Sun 16 Nov, 2008 10:21 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Myles,
I dug mine out, it measures 3 1/2 inches. Pommel is about 3 1/4. When you finish your project
post some pictures.

Best,

Doug G.
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Myles Mulkey





Joined: 31 Jul 2008

Posts: 250

PostPosted: Tue 18 Nov, 2008 4:57 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Douglas G. wrote:
Myles,
I dug mine out, it measures 3 1/2 inches. Pommel is about 3 1/4. When you finish your project
post some pictures.

Best,

Doug G.

Thanks Doug. I thought that the guard I have looks a little too long... But that's a good thing though. I can always trim it down, but I can't build it back up! Big Grin
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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Tue 18 Nov, 2008 7:35 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Myles,
I think you´ll find that you are in a better position if you proportion your hilt after the blade you have rather than a production sword.
It is not about absolute measurements, but how proportions relate to each other.
Typical for these swords is that the guard is not very much broader than the blade is broad. You want a slight overhang outside the scabbard, but not much more. that means about 10-15 mm outside each side of the blade.
Grip should be very tight on your hand. So tight that it feels like a firm hand shake to grip the sword.

These hilts were also made in all wood versions. Or mostly wood and metal rivet block/pommel.
Or wood with thin sheet metal cover, or metal facing on the upper and lower guard towards grip side and blade side/rivet side.
If you do a search I am sure you will find plenty of images of the originals on the internet.
I think your result will be better if you base your version directly from those rather than copying an interpretation. It is always a good idea to come as close to the original as possible. Less interference that way.

Good luck with your project!
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Myles Mulkey





Joined: 31 Jul 2008

Posts: 250

PostPosted: Tue 18 Nov, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Peter Johnsson wrote:
Hi Myles,
I think you´ll find that you are in a better position if you proportion your hilt after the blade you have rather than a production sword.
It is not about absolute measurements, but how proportions relate to each other.
Typical for these swords is that the guard is not very much broader than the blade is broad. You want a slight overhang outside the scabbard, but not much more. that means about 10-15 mm outside each side of the blade.
Grip should be very tight on your hand. So tight that it feels like a firm hand shake to grip the sword.

These hilts were also made in all wood versions. Or mostly wood and metal rivet block/pommel.
Or wood with thin sheet metal cover, or metal facing on the upper and lower guard towards grip side and blade side/rivet side.
If you do a search I am sure you will find plenty of images of the originals on the internet.
I think your result will be better if you base your version directly from those rather than copying an interpretation. It is always a good idea to come as close to the original as possible. Less interference that way.

Good luck with your project!

Thank you very much, Peter. I had been planning on taking a little bit of "artistic liscense" and if you saw the blade I think you'd understand why! Big Grin It's quite bad, but at least it's not stainless. I just wanted measurements to get a general idea of what Albion's model looks like. I'll certainly take your advice, though.
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Ian Hutchison




Location: Louisiana / Nordrhein-Westholland
Joined: 27 Nov 2007

Posts: 625

PostPosted: Tue 18 Nov, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

On a side note may I say, that is a gorgeous sword. Judging by how little I see them come up for sale, other people must feel the same way!
'We are told that the pen is mightier than the sword, but I know which of these weapons I would choose.' - Adrian Carton de Wiart
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Myles Mulkey





Joined: 31 Jul 2008

Posts: 250

PostPosted: Wed 19 Nov, 2008 10:40 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Ian Hutchison wrote:
On a side note may I say, that is a gorgeous sword. Judging by how little I see them come up for sale, other people must feel the same way!

I completely agree! If I could find one that I could afford right now (not much mind you) I'd get it in a heartbeat. While we're talking side notes, what materials do you guys suggest I use? I'm planning on just wood and brass at the moment, but I think a bit of bone right in the middle of the handle will look good. What do you all think? Also, what about scabbard parts? How should I construct the baldric loop?
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Myles Mulkey





Joined: 31 Jul 2008

Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri 21 Nov, 2008 8:03 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

How is the sandwiched guard made on this sword? I can see 5 layers to the crossguard: 1 big brass piece, 1 wood piece, and 3 thin brass pieces. But I can't see any rivets. Glued, perhaps?
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