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Nathan Keysor
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 Posted: Mon 04 Aug, 2008 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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If you wanted to save money but still have an Albion you could buy the Squire Line Knightly sword and have it sharpened. It's under $400 (prior to price increase). Just a thought...
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!"
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Mike Harris
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 4:54 am Post subject: |
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The Squire Line ia a good idea. And Dan Dickinson offers a service of delivering a Squire Line Knightly sword with reworked grip and a proper "appleseed" edge sharpening for around $500. It pretty much turns the Squire Line sword into a Next Gen Knight with a square guard. Dan also builds some very nice period scabbards. And I have found him to be a pleasure to deal with.
Just to offer an "option 1a" so to speak...
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L.S. Lawrence
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Mike Harris wrote: | | ...If you are more concerned with having a sword that performs up to the highest expectations of the day, and can be easily disassembled for customization or repair, the ATrim sword does that with aplomb and has a substantially lower sticker price. |
Just wanted to echo that. Many people around here do not want the ability to break the sword down for customization, repair or storage. I happen to value it highly.
Moving on, more wisdom from Mike...
| Mike Harris wrote: | The Squire Line ia a good idea. And Dan Dickinson offers a service of delivering a Squire Line Knightly sword with reworked grip and a proper "appleseed" edge sharpening for around $500. It pretty much turns the Squire Line sword into a Next Gen Knight with a square guard. Dan also builds some very nice period scabbards. And I have found him to be a pleasure to deal with.
Just to offer an "option 1a" so to speak... |
I am also in a position to second this recommendation re Dan Dickinson. He is indeed a good guy, and does very nice work. I know he would do a good job for you.
At the risk of seeming to put words into your mouth, which I don't want to do, many people getting started tend to ask questions like "Which brand or maker is the best?" or "Which system of construction is most correct?' etc. A better approach is which brand, which system of construction, whatever, best suits my current needs as I understand them now?
A final word, what you think you want now is possibly not what you will want in six months or a year's time, and almost certainly not what you will want in three to five year's' time.
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James H.
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Mike Harris wrote: | The Squire Line ia a good idea. And Dan Dickinson offers a service of delivering a Squire Line Knightly sword with reworked grip and a proper "appleseed" edge sharpening for around $500. It pretty much turns the Squire Line sword into a Next Gen Knight with a square guard. Dan also builds some very nice period scabbards. And I have found him to be a pleasure to deal with.
Just to offer an "option 1a" so to speak... |
I tried looking through the links on this site and google and could not find Dan Dickinson, does he have a web site?
Thanks,
James.
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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| James H. wrote: | I tried looking through the links on this site and google and could not find Dan Dickinson, does he have a web site?
Thanks,
James. |
He can be contacted via his profile.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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James H.
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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I could not find a link to him on this site or through Google search. Does he have a web page?
Also what are the handling difference between the NG Knight and Squire Knight? I read the review but the reviewer did not seem so experienced with reviewing (no disrespect to him) On this site's review it had the blade base as posted as wider and with the point of balance set a touch further from the guard , 4 inches on the Squire as oppose to 3 1/2 inches on the NG Knight. Am I correct in thinking this would make it a better cutter (when sharpened) but a little more blade heavy in the control?
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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| James H. wrote: | I could not find a link to him on this site or through Google search. Does he have a web page?
Also what are the handling difference between the NG Knight and Squire Knight? I read the review but the reviewer did not seem so experienced with reviewing (no disrespect to him) On this site's review it had the blade base as posted as wider and with the point of balance set a touch further from the guard , 4 inches on the Squire as oppose to 3 1/2 inches on the NG Knight. Am I correct in thinking this would make it a better cutter (when sharpened) but a little more blade heavy in the control? |
Check Dan's posts for examples of his work, especially his recent thread in the Makers and Manufacturers Talk forum. Dan seems to be a hobbyist turned sword furbisher. I don't believe he has a website, but he's posted some of his projects on this site.
I've handled the Knight but not the Squire Line knightly. The SL is 1/16 of an inch wider than the Knight. That's not much. A 1/2" difference in POB may not be a big deal. Overall mass distribution is a bigger deal. That difference in P'sOB may result in slight handling differences, but I'd be surprised if it was night and day in terms of difference. The removal of metal during sharpening may change the weight and handling ever so slightly as well.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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Generally speaking further out = better cutting...all other things being equal. However how a sword behaves in one's hand is never that easy or simple . In anycase, 4 inches is still pretty controllable in the thrust usually. However albion does list the PoB on the knight as 4.5 inches and the squire as 4.75. So how much of an intrest do you have in the ability to thrust anyways? Cut first and maybe thrust? Cut and thrust? Maybe cut but thrust first? You seems to come back to this point quite often now. If you want a good ability to thrust, the knight isn't a good choice. The blade geomemty of the XII isn't for that. If that if important, you should look at the XIV, XVI and XVIII blades as those are what those swords are designed for.
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James H.
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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usually majority slash with a finishing thrust, with wooden swords it is slashes most time but a thrust if an opportune open present itself. All though I have never dealt with leather armor I would like the chance to try out against a harden strip of leather at some point. I like slashing and cuts because it is easier on me then the thrust though for the must part.
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James H.
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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| James H. wrote: | | usually majority slash with a finishing thrust, with wooden swords it is slashes most time but a thrust if an opportune open present itself. All though I have never dealt with leather armor I would like the chance to try out against a harden strip of leather at some point. I like slashing and cuts because it is easier on me then the thrust though for the must part. |
But still enjoy the idea of the quick kill of the thrust you might say. More of a piratical thought the a preference I guess.
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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| P. Cha wrote: | | However albion does list the PoB on the knight as 4.5 inches and the squire as 4.75. |
I've reviewed a fair number of items from many companies over the years and handled a good many more, and I've learned that reality often differs from the manufacturer's stats.
For example, my Regent is a full 4 ounces less than Albion's posted weight. Its POB is 4.5 inches, not 5.25.
I'm sure a number of our reviews don't agree with published stats from the makers. That's the reality of any item with hand-crafting involved.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Chad Arnow wrote: | | P. Cha wrote: | | However albion does list the PoB on the knight as 4.5 inches and the squire as 4.75. |
I've reviewed a fair number of items from many companies over the years and handled a good many more, and I've learned that reality often differs from the manufacturer's stats.
For example, my Regent is a full 4 ounces less than Albion's posted weight. Its POB is 4.5 inches, not 5.25.
I'm sure a number of our reviews don't agree with published stats from the makers. That's the reality of any item with hand-crafting involved. |
Yes it is true...especially on forged swords. But the makers stats can be seen more of as an average unless we have enough of a sample to say otherwise since with hand crafted items, one might be lighter and the next a bit overweight after all . The number was given just as a point of reference since using just one sword as a typical sample is a sure way to get disapointed after all.
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 8:51 pm Post subject: |
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| James H. wrote: | | usually majority slash with a finishing thrust, with wooden swords it is slashes most time but a thrust if an opportune open present itself. All though I have never dealt with leather armor I would like the chance to try out against a harden strip of leather at some point. I like slashing and cuts because it is easier on me then the thrust though for the must part. |
Well this is pretty much what a type XII sword is for. However the type XVI and XVIII don't give up very much in cutting ability for a much better thrusting ability so you have to ask exactly how much of a priority is the cutting vs the thrusting. If you like the idea of a quick thrust maybe a type XIV is in order. Yeah I hate how they look, but no sword feels better in my hands for a cut and thrust sword then one of those. Of course type XVI and XVIII are no slouches either...and I like how those look...which is why I prefer those types the most . Yeah this is what happens when you start to play with swords hehe.
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James H.
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, I was considering going for the Albion Prince with a steel pommel, but while I like the way it looks now I believe I'd get tired of that pommel eventually, a little to flashy for me. The Steward I thought of also, just not sure I wanted to spend the that much on it, If I remember right it was the same price as the Prince. I guess I am somewhat of a stickler for historical accuracy because all though I had really like Angus's Maker's Mark the fact is that the pommel being a nut and bolt deal just irks me for some reason, other wise I would have jumped on the XIV offered on Christian's site. I went ahead and sent Dan Dickerson a PM to see what he could do for me about the Squire Knight Sword and then I'll see.
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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If the prince is too flashy (yeah it is for me as well...I like plain swords too ), then maybe the squire? If longswords are okay, then there is the crecy as well (I ordered this one monday hehe ). For one handed the kingmaker is very nice. If I could ever own one albion and that was it, that is the sword I would pick.
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James H.
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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The Kingmaker I thought of too but I can not go over 1,000. Just too much for my little pockets.  The Squire has the same blade as the Prince and is on my list of consideration but still a little more then I wanted to spend. I will probably be tossing these ideas in my head until one day I'll snap and find my self having already bought one be for I know what I've just done. 
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Tue 05 Aug, 2008 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah that's what happened. Oh no prices going up...but I just ordered a custom sword...but prices going up...next thing I know, monday at work, I'm giving Mike a call to place an order .
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James H.
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| Posted: Wed 06 Aug, 2008 9:34 am Post subject: |
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An off hand question that was not worth another thread so I am tagging to this one I already started, sometimes I see swords with darkened guards and pommel, blued I guess you might say. did they do this as well in Medieval times? Does it protect from rust? And how is this accomplished? Thanks.
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Wed 06 Aug, 2008 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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They did hot blue the fitting. Basically it is heated steel that is then oil quenched. It does protect against rust. Also a fitting can be forged and not polished. This also protects against rust. Not sure if they would cold blue anything though.
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Jared Smith
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| Posted: Wed 06 Aug, 2008 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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| P. Cha wrote: | | If you want a good ability to thrust, the knight isn't a good choice. The blade geomemty of the XII isn't for that. . |
Actually the Knight is something of a hybrid with a sort of subtle compromise in typology/ geometry which has unexpected stiffness and tip strength in the thrust. I always make a point of trying some thrusts when test cutting with any of my swords, and have had some of my most surprising accidents/target prop fatalities (thrusting clear through garbage cans with debris in them and such) with the Knight. I would not discount it as "inadequate" for thrusting tactics.
Absence of evidence is not necessarily evidence of absence!
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This is a standard topic