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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

Posts: 9

PostPosted: Sat 21 Jun, 2008 11:19 am    Post subject: Need recommendation on what gladius I should buy         Reply with quote

I'm looking to buy me a gladius of the same type that was used by Caesar's legions and from the reading I've done it seems I should go with the Mainz pattern? Problem is there are many manufacturers out there... Different prices, different quality.
I've read some good things about Albion swords but those things are really expensive. Not outside my price range but certainly expensive enough to look at other options first. Any recommendations are welcome.

Note that I'm not looking for a sword just to hang on the wall, it should be a fully functional piece of metal that I should be able to shop wood with if I want to. It should be sharp and durable and authentic!
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M. Eversberg II




Location: California, Maryland, USA
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PostPosted: Sat 21 Jun, 2008 2:35 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Check out Albion. None finer.

M.

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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Sat 21 Jun, 2008 2:43 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Tojo,
Hello and welcome to myArmoury.com. Happy First, let me just say you won't really find an authentic sword that will stand up to a lot of wood chopping (I assume you meant "chop" instead of "shop"). Swords were made to kill people. Sure, they would have to stand up to hitting shields and such, but that's different than chopping stationary wood. Any sword that can handle lots of wood chopping will be overbuilt and unauthentic.

In the sub-Albion range, you're going to be looking at various inaccuracies in almost every model. The Windlass pieces miss the mark in authentic looks and features. Depeeka has worked with some heavy hitters in the world of Roman reenactment and should be better, for those items, than Windlass.

Check out this site for more info:

http://www.larp.com/legioxx/gladius.html
http://www.larp.com/legioxx/bad.html

Happy

ChadA

http://chadarnow.com/
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Joel Chesser




Location: Oklahoma
Joined: 23 Oct 2003

Posts: 724

PostPosted: Sat 21 Jun, 2008 5:00 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Kris Cutlery also makes a very nice Pompeii style gladius that I would highly recommend. I would also echo Chad's thoughts on the swords chopping wood. Historical swords are really not made for that, if you want to chop wood an axe would be the way to go. good luck finding a sword. Happy
..." The person who dosen't have a sword should sell his coat and buy one."

- Luke 22:36
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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

Posts: 9

PostPosted: Sun 22 Jun, 2008 2:38 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Ok, chopping wood is a no-no then. I must admit I didn't know much about the durability of swords until yesterday. Happy

The more I read about it the more I'm leaning towards the Albion Mainz, despite the fact that I can get multiple (but not so authentic) swords incuding scabbards for the same price. But then I'm not really looking to start a collection either.. It's just the gladius that's stuck on my mind.
Since the Albion swords don't come with a scabbard, are there any places where I might buy a cheap leather scabbard for transportation of this sword? Most of the time it will be on display on a bookshelf or on the wall and I won't be needing an authentic scabbard for that.
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M. Eversberg II




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PostPosted: Sun 22 Jun, 2008 3:28 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Not sure where you can get a scabbard. You might be able to get Christian Fletcher to do one as a commission, however. The only Albion gladius with a scabbard is the Pompeii one.

M.

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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

Posts: 9

PostPosted: Sun 22 Jun, 2008 3:51 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I checked out out Christian Fletcher's site but those scabbards seems to cost a bit too much. Oh well, a scabbard is not a must at this time, I can always get it later. Maybe there's some local knife smith here in my country that I can get to make a scabbard..
Anyway, the Mainz is ordered now from Kult Of Athena. It hurt a bit seeing all those hard earned cash fly away over the internet but I'm hoping it will be worth it. Happy
Thanks for the help guys.
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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Sun 22 Jun, 2008 6:26 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

For a simple leather transport sheath, try Dorsett House. You send them a tracing of the blade, they send a leather sheath with reinforced tip and throat. It's not historical but serves the purpose. It will be less than $100. For a blade that size, it should even be less than $75.
Happy

ChadA

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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

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PostPosted: Sun 22 Jun, 2008 10:07 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

That sounds pretty good. I'll check that out once my precious has arrived, thanks!
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Mark Millman





Joined: 10 Feb 2005

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PostPosted: Sun 22 Jun, 2008 2:04 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Dear Mr. Takanawa,

On Sunday 22 June 2008, you wrote:
The more I read about it the more I'm leaning towards the Albion Mainz, despite the fact that I can get multiple (but not so authentic) swords incuding scabbards for the same price. But then I'm not really looking to start a collection either.. It's just the gladius that's stuck on my mind.
Since the Albion swords don't come with a scabbard, are there any places where I might buy a cheap leather scabbard for transportation of this sword? Most of the time it will be on display on a bookshelf or on the wall and I won't be needing an authentic scabbard for that.

I'd suggest that the Albion sword is not more historically accurate than Deepeeka's current line of Roman swords. I don't think there's any question that it's a more carefully worked product, but that in itself would be relatively rare for a Roman sword. Most were mass-produced in factory settings, in a way that I understand is very similar to what you'll find in an Indian workshop today. A very carefully made one would likely be a personal commission for a veteran or wealthy soldier.

Also, the Albion's holly grip is a substitute for bone, which seems to be the predominant handle material in Roman sword finds of this period. There are some all-wood hilts, but they seem mostly to be made of a single type of wood--the holly, in part, replicates the look of a bone handle between the walnut guard and pommel--as the Romans wouldn't have seen a reason to use different types of wood for the guard and pommel and the grip if bone for grips weren't available. Bone has the advantage of being resistant to getting slippery when it's wet.

As to your interest in a scabbard, I'd suggest that you buy a Deepeeka AH2005 Mainz gladius. My guess, based on the published blade dimensions, is that the Albion will fit easily in the Deepeeka scabbard. Then you'd also have the other sword for comparison, or to play around with--which you'll probably feel better about, since the Deepeeka isn't nearly as expensive as the Albion, and doesn't come sharpened. I checked Kult of Athena's site, and they have the sword in stock. I'm sure they'd be happy to add one to your order, which would save you a bit on the shipping. And the Deepeeka scabbard is a historically accurate one.

Disclaimer: I have no connection with Deepeeka, Albion, or any of their resellers, including Kult of Athena.

Best,

Mark Millman
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Kelly Powell




Location: lawrence, kansas
Joined: 27 Feb 2008

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PostPosted: Mon 23 Jun, 2008 10:39 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

The Mainz was the really wasp waisted one , right? It would also depend on if you are trying to portray a certain rank and a certain time period....officers would have custom work, while the mules would get SQPR(I got that wrong, didn't I?) issued....hence the blockier, less visually apppealing later models......they did the job...and results were the bottom line.
were the hilts made from multiple pieces, or were they a single piece?
You know what would make a trippy hilt? (other then walrus oosik Cool )....Get a piece of the synthetic ivory narwhale horn some companies are offering.....try to talk them into selling you a botched piece for a big discount......I tell them it's for a project for the educational, non-profit group I'm associated with(Yay sca for it's tax loophole classification!)
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Lars Ekströmer





Joined: 29 Aug 2003

Posts: 6

PostPosted: Tue 24 Jun, 2008 1:56 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I would highly recommend Mark Morrow:

http://www.swordsmith.net/

He made me a Fulham Gladius which is very well made, and ridicolously sharp. He does scabbards as well.

/L
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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

Posts: 9

PostPosted: Tue 01 Jul, 2008 11:22 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

It arrived today!
First impression when I opened the box: It's big. I mean, I knew I was buying a sword but still, considering it's a short sword somehow my brain was expecting a large knife. So I was pleasantly surprised to say the least. Happy
The customs ripped me off though, added a whooping 25% to the price! I guess it serves me right for not reading up on import laws before buying from abroad huh?
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M. Eversberg II




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PostPosted: Sat 05 Jul, 2008 7:05 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Wasn't aware Japan had strict customs laws. Actually, I wasn't aware it was legal to OWN a sword there, or any weapon, as a civilian. I must have heard wrong.

You might also want to invest in some Renaissance Wax. Additionally, a good heavy mace will be the perfect deterrent against people touching it Wink

M.

This space for rent or lease.
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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

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PostPosted: Sat 05 Jul, 2008 9:44 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You may have heard right, however even though my name might suggest otherwise I actually live in Sweden. Happy

Renaissance Wax you say? Should I use that on both the blade and the handle? And instead of oil? Or should I use oil first and then put the wax on?
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Tony Drake




Location: Sunderland England
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PostPosted: Sat 05 Jul, 2008 1:52 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Any chance you could post a pic Big Grin
Regards Tony Big Grin

Woe Ye The Vanquished
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When you have all this why do you envy our mud huts
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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

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PostPosted: Sat 05 Jul, 2008 10:57 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sure. Happy I have my USB cable at work though so I'll post it tomorrow.
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M. Eversberg II




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PostPosted: Sun 06 Jul, 2008 10:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Tojo Takanawa wrote:
You may have heard right, however even though my name might suggest otherwise I actually live in Sweden. Happy

Renaissance Wax you say? Should I use that on both the blade and the handle? And instead of oil? Or should I use oil first and then put the wax on?


Ah, Sweden -- how are things up that way? You hear so little of the Nordic states these days.

Renaissance Wax can be used on the blade, however I don't think you would need to do anything to the handle at all. Oil works too, but it is messy.

M.

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Tojo Takanawa





Joined: 21 Jun 2008

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PostPosted: Mon 07 Jul, 2008 1:07 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sweden is messed up. The climate is bad for me and the politicians are crazy.. I'm considering moving to Thailand. Happy

But you are sure I don't need to polish the wooden parts of the sword? I don't want them to crack in the future.. Also, where the blade meets the handle it goes into some bronze looking part. Should I wax or oil that too?



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Jean Thibodeau




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PostPosted: Mon 07 Jul, 2008 5:42 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Tojo Takanawa wrote:
Sweden is messed up. The climate is bad for me and the politicians are crazy.. I'm considering moving to Thailand. Happy

But you are sure I don't need to polish the wooden parts of the sword? I don't want them to crack in the future.. Also, where the blade meets the handle it goes into some bronze looking part. Should I wax or oil that too?


For wood something like boiled linseed oil works well: Cover the wood with a coat of linseed oil, let it seep in for a few hours and wipe off as you rub it into the wood before it gets sticky or tacky. Wipe clean with tissue paper until the oil looks as if it is all gone. Repeat every feel weeks for a few months and you will get a nice oil finish that will need only a very light oiling to maintain it's shine and lustre. ( Later applications being a quick wipe on/wipe off thing ).

Note: Linseed oil, I've read here before, might lead to spontaneous combustion when saturating tissue or a cloth ! I usually heavily wet these with water before throwing away or just flush it down the toilet as long as I don't flush a big ball of it at the same time. Don't know if this is the best way, but I haven't had a blocked toilet because of this or a fire, and I've done this for years/decades ! ( Probably " Killing " the Planet Laughing Out Loud ).

Renaissance Wax shouldn't harm the wood and can be used instead of the oil for longtime maintenance.

On the steel the renaissance wax seems to work but needs to be refreshed if the steel is handled or touched: A quick wipe with the same shammy used to apply it if the shammy has been used for a while. ( Very little fresh wax being needed in my opinion ). A good gun oil that contains rust protection might be better for something handled a lot rather than stored as an exhibit behind glass. ( At least this works for me. Wink Big Grin ).

( Is there anyplace where the politicians aren't crazy. Exclamation Question Razz Laughing Out Loud ).

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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