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Felix R.




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PostPosted: Tue 06 Nov, 2007 11:07 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

By the way, in regards to the close fitting arms, there were also examples of non slide riveted lower cannons, so ther must have been the possibility to turn the arms inside.
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Steven H




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PostPosted: Wed 07 Nov, 2007 4:56 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

If I may attempt to summarize Randall's description.

A lord would buy armour for himself and go to the expense and time of having it custom fitted. For his retainers he would buy "off-the-shelf" pieces. Some of these may be aftermarket modified to fit better, though this was not always the case.

Mercenaries probably bought off-the-shelf and may have it modified if they could afford it.

Depending on the number of retainers and mercenaries in a force we have a rather wide range of values for how much armour was custom fitted vs. modified vs. off-the-shelf.

If only the lords were buying custom then probably less than 25% of the harness worn was custom fitted, and perhaps as little as 3-5%.

Still up in the air is how much after market modification could be done, and how much was done.

I am still curious about how we know how well the armour is supposed to fit?

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Hugh Knight




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PostPosted: Wed 07 Nov, 2007 10:15 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Felix R. wrote:
@ Hugh
I regards to the full range of motion, I thought of the nearly 180°


Your forearm doesn't rotate that far. Hold your fist to your front with your thumb pointing straight up. Now rotate your hand so your thumb is pointing directly to your left. You won't go past 90 degrees without lifting your elbow. When you lift the elbow you're past what your rotating lower cannon needs to do.

Quote:
Some detailed pictures would be very nice.


Sorry, I just haven't had time. I will try to get to it soon.

Regards,
Hugh
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Hugh Knight




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PostPosted: Wed 07 Nov, 2007 10:19 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Steven H wrote:
If I may attempt to summarize Randall's description.

A lord would buy armour for himself and go to the expense and time of having it custom fitted. For his retainers he would buy "off-the-shelf" pieces. Some of these may be aftermarket modified to fit better, though this was not always the case.

Mercenaries probably bought off-the-shelf and may have it modified if they could afford it.

Depending on the number of retainers and mercenaries in a force we have a rather wide range of values for how much armour was custom fitted vs. modified vs. off-the-shelf.

If only the lords were buying custom then probably less than 25% of the harness worn was custom fitted, and perhaps as little as 3-5%.


Could you please show the documentation supporting those statistics? My research suggests that the vast majority of men at arms were wearing custom-fit armor, with the variance of quality having to do with the hardness of the steel, not the fit or construction. Of course, Alamain-rivets, a kind of mass-produced armor from the 16th century, doesn't fall under that rule, but that's well outside the period we're discussing. In the 14th century, which is when the Charles de Blois-style arming doublet we're discussing was made, the majority of those in full harness were knights or squires.

Regards,
Hugh
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Felix R.




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PostPosted: Wed 07 Nov, 2007 11:00 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hugh Knight wrote:
Felix R. wrote:
@ Hugh
I regards to the full range of motion, I thought of the nearly 180°


Your forearm doesn't rotate that far. Hold your fist to your front with your thumb pointing straight up. Now rotate your hand so your thumb is pointing directly to your left. You won't go past 90 degrees without lifting your elbow. When you lift the elbow you're past what your rotating lower cannon needs to do.

Quote:
Some detailed pictures would be very nice.


Sorry, I just haven't had time. I will try to get to it soon.


If you do the test tumb up, tumb down, but if you do it like we learend once at anatomy ot is the back of the hand facing up facing down, so the tumb is once left, once right it is indeed nearly 180° without lifting the elbow. You can get this range of motion from different arm postitions, so I am just wondering, some personal flexibility issues come in too. I am not that flexible and even than I come to nearly 180°. But this wouldn“t matter if you say the range of motion is enough in the lower cannons.
But even then there still were some non sliding arms, so there must have been another way to turn the arms too.
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Randall Moffett




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PostPosted: Thu 08 Nov, 2007 12:07 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hugh,

I did not put the numbers up that Steve did but I can easily ducument the occurance I spoke of. I study equipment in towns and trade of said things so it is not a quick topic. You may have to buy the book so to speak though as it is a huge industry. The only people I have ever found any records of getting sized and fit armours are esquires and up, mostly their betters though. Might be the way documents tend to survive. This does not include all men at arms, which include men of various stations from kings, princes and dukes down to some wealthy bakers and merchants.

If I could give you a quick source to avoid a huge use of time I do not have I'd say look at the Howard House books. It shows at one point a chest of harnesses still not assigned to anyone. The same is true regarding all his men and retinue and the armour he lends out. The same men wear different armours each time as they are described in some detail so the lord makes sure to get them back by this ID. There are I think four or five sections in the book of this armour lending written down for your viewing satisfaction showing the unfitted nature of armour for commoners and retinue men.

My guess is like I said before, if you bought armour either you had the money to get them modified after they arrived in your local by a local armoury or it was not done at all. As far as I know no records for anyone below esquire exist for fitted armour. As they pass armour on in generation to generation as well in wills it would be hard to be one sized fits all.

If you have documentation that heat treating was the reason armour went for higher prices you should share them though as not even in Williams book was that stated. It can be inferred that the better masters in italy and late in the 15th germany could heat treat adaquate to make it useful but it goes with well fit as well. AS the italian masters were the only ones to show high levels of heat treated armour until the late 15th per Willaims book it seems heat treated armour was the domain of the very wealthy, which would not be all men at arms but likely the knightly class up, but likely more often higher. These men took commissions like good armourers today do and a million measurements. Not everyone, even men at arms, could clearly afford this and if they could did they.

Here is an excert from something I am working on. It is from 1470 Port Book of Southampton, October or November I think,

-Aungel Catan. 35 pairs white Harness, £93 , 6 s., 8 p. value.

He is entering the town to go and sell his wares in a market, nor does it have any destination of a noble or knightly family. If it were for a knight or lord it would indicate this as often they went toll free, which in this case he does not.

The fact some towns in italy and germany were churning out hundreds if not more suits in a few months indicated them unfitted. We have records here in the Port books of Southampton and other from London, Hull and York that indicate where some of these suits end up. Still not assigned to a person but open for sale to any. Clearly not made to fit anyone particular, which goes back to what I said before.

Hope that helps.

RPM
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Hugh Knight




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PostPosted: Thu 08 Nov, 2007 1:52 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Randall Moffett wrote:
Hugh,

I did not put the numbers up that Steve did but I can easily ducument the occurance I spoke of. I study equipment in towns and trade of said things so it is not a quick topic. You may have to buy the book so to speak though as it is a huge industry. The only people I have ever found any records of getting sized and fit armours are esquires and up, mostly their betters though. Might be the way documents tend to survive. This does not include all men at arms, which include men of various stations from kings, princes and dukes down to some wealthy bakers and merchants.

If I could give you a quick source to avoid a huge use of time I do not have I'd say look at the Howard House books. It shows at one point a chest of harnesses still not assigned to anyone. The same is true regarding all his men and retinue and the armour he lends out. The same men wear different armours each time as they are described in some detail so the lord makes sure to get them back by this ID. There are I think four or five sections in the book of this armour lending written down for your viewing satisfaction showing the unfitted nature of armour for commoners and retinue men.

My guess is like I said before, if you bought armour either you had the money to get them modified after they arrived in your local by a local armoury or it was not done at all. As far as I know no records for anyone below esquire exist for fitted armour. As they pass armour on in generation to generation as well in wills it would be hard to be one sized fits all.

If you have documentation that heat treating was the reason armour went for higher prices you should share them though as not even in Williams book was that stated. It can be inferred that the better masters in italy and late in the 15th germany could heat treat adaquate to make it useful but it goes with well fit as well. AS the italian masters were the only ones to show high levels of heat treated armour until the late 15th per Willaims book it seems heat treated armour was the domain of the very wealthy, which would not be all men at arms but likely the knightly class up, but likely more often higher. These men took commissions like good armourers today do and a million measurements. Not everyone, even men at arms, could clearly afford this and if they could did they.

Here is an excert from something I am working on. It is from 1470 Port Book of Southampton, October or November I think,

-Aungel Catan. 35 pairs white Harness, £93 , 6 s., 8 p. value.

He is entering the town to go and sell his wares in a market, nor does it have any destination of a noble or knightly family. If it were for a knight or lord it would indicate this as often they went toll free, which in this case he does not.

The fact some towns in italy and germany were churning out hundreds if not more suits in a few months indicated them unfitted. We have records here in the Port books of Southampton and other from London, Hull and York that indicate where some of these suits end up. Still not assigned to a person but open for sale to any. Clearly not made to fit anyone particular, which goes back to what I said before.

Hope that helps.

RPM


Hi Randall,

I don't know Randall, this makes no sense to me. Is there a chance you're talking about partial harnesses? A helmet and a breastplate, for example? that price you quoted seems incredibly low for 35 full harnesses. The harnesses I've seen simply *have* to be custom fit. Look at the Alamain-rivet harnesses I spoke of earlier: They are designed to be worn by a variety of men, so there's a sliding rivet in the forearm plate (not real vambraces) to let the partial hand gaurd move up and down depending upon the length of the wearer's arm. I don't know how to reconcile this apparent discrepancy, but I'm telling you, I've seen armor, and very little of it can just be passed from one guy to the next. Fractions of an inch of "non fit" are very painful to wear.

It's Williams I'm going by re: the quality of the metal. Today the worse the quality of the armor the clumsier and more poorly fit the armor; you can see it even when no one's wearing it; it's just crudely shaped. Medieval armor, even the bad stuff, wasn't like that for the most part. When you look at the pieces he said were harder they tend to be the nicer pieces.

Moreover, we've been speaking of the 14th century; that's when the Charles de Blois doublet is from. Perhaps armor was less well fit in 1470 (although I doubt it). There was *certainly* less of this then.

Look, folks, wear what you want. Pad your armor all you can stand to have it padded. Believe in the myth that lower-quality armor was less fitted if you really want to. Believe modern armorers who tell you your armor is supposed to be so sloppy you can move your arm in it. Have fun.

Regards,
Hugh
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Randall Moffett




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PostPosted: Thu 08 Nov, 2007 3:51 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hugh,

White harness usually means compete as in arms, legs, cuirass etc yet at times without helmet or greaves. I do not see how else it could be interpreted really as this is in english. On this case there is little chance that they are not more or less complete suits from what I can tell. The price shows the quality in my opinion, which is what I was/am hoping to show. The huge variety in the industry of armour and arms production. There are men who spend easily ten times this.

I agree that the fit makes a huge difference. That is not what I am discussing. My point is that there is no way that all armour was initially made to fit the person who would wear it. As I said before you then have the possibility it was fit by someone local or not at all. So I am not saying not fit at all, just not at the armours initial creation.

Henry VIII is ordering 10, 000's of almain rivets that have arms harnesses that are not the ones with sliding rivets. In fact even many later cheaper vambraces have no sliding rivets. Your arms simply turns inside the lower cannon. If you go to Wade Allens online gallery a few of these 'munitions' arm harnesses can be seen. I have restored and cleaned a number of these 16th and 17th century full, 3/4 and 1/2 suits. I have posted this picture before but will post it again just because I like it and have the excuse to. It is me in a 1600-1610 harness of the quality a man in a retinue would have worn. Not all 14th and 15th century vambraces have the sliding rivets either. One off the top of my head is in the army museum in Paris that possibly is late 14th. I am sure there are more but I'd have to spend time looking.

As far as Williams book. He looks at I think only one complete suit of the 15th and states that because the plates all vary from heat treated and unheat treated in not particular pattern regarding the point I made earlier.

I like having armour that fits me. It makes fighting easier. Can it be proven that everyone had fit armour... not from my studies.


RPM



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Steven H




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PostPosted: Sat 10 Nov, 2007 1:33 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hugh-

The numbers I gave were those that fit the information Randall has provided here and elsewhere, and well as being consistent with the info in "The Armourer and his Craft" by charles ffoulkes. They are obviously approximations (given an order of magnitude difference between top and bottom numbers Big Grin ).

I, like the others in this thread, have no doubt at all that custom-fitted armour is preferable but I have not seen the evidence that it is the norm. However, I am interested the evidence and would love to know your sources (so I can read them instead of just ffoulkes Sad ).


On the fit of vambraces: we know that the bazuband was clearly fitted to allow the wearer to rotate their arm inside since the piece can't rotate. These aren't Medieval European but they were made by professional armourers and bought by professional warriors in the same period. If the lower arm fit was that important we can expect it to show up in Eastern armour as well.

The evidence of the bazuband is consistent with my own experiences. The first vambraces I made did not fit so snug and my arm can rotate inside it. After months of use I have found no impairment to my fighting ability as a result. Is there a specific technique that makes such close fit important?

Thanks,
Steven

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Hugh Knight




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PostPosted: Sat 10 Nov, 2007 3:58 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Randall Moffett wrote:
Hugh,

White harness usually means compete as in arms, legs, cuirass etc yet at times without helmet or greaves. I do not see how else it could be interpreted really as this is in english. On this case there is little chance that they are not more or less complete suits from what I can tell. The price shows the quality in my opinion, which is what I was/am hoping to show. The huge variety in the industry of armour and arms production. There are men who spend easily ten times this.

I agree that the fit makes a huge difference. That is not what I am discussing. My point is that there is no way that all armour was initially made to fit the person who would wear it. As I said before you then have the possibility it was fit by someone local or not at all. So I am not saying not fit at all, just not at the armours initial creation.

Henry VIII is ordering 10, 000's of almain rivets that have arms harnesses that are not the ones with sliding rivets. In fact even many later cheaper vambraces have no sliding rivets. Your arms simply turns inside the lower cannon. If you go to Wade Allens online gallery a few of these 'munitions' arm harnesses can be seen. I have restored and cleaned a number of these 16th and 17th century full, 3/4 and 1/2 suits. I have posted this picture before but will post it again just because I like it and have the excuse to. It is me in a 1600-1610 harness of the quality a man in a retinue would have worn. Not all 14th and 15th century vambraces have the sliding rivets either. One off the top of my head is in the army museum in Paris that possibly is late 14th. I am sure there are more but I'd have to spend time looking.

As far as Williams book. He looks at I think only one complete suit of the 15th and states that because the plates all vary from heat treated and unheat treated in not particular pattern regarding the point I made earlier.

I like having armour that fits me. It makes fighting easier. Can it be proven that everyone had fit armour... not from my studies.


But now you're mixing periods! We were talking about a 14th-century garment, an arming doublet made along the lines of the Charles de Blois pourpoint. From there you jump to mass-produced harnesses made for lower-class troops in the 16th century! Apples and oranges. Armor was not one thing throughout the middle ages.

Regards,
Hugh
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Hugh Knight




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PostPosted: Sat 10 Nov, 2007 4:00 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Steven H wrote:
On the fit of vambraces: we know that the bazuband was clearly fitted to allow the wearer to rotate their arm inside since the piece can't rotate. These aren't Medieval European but they were made by professional armourers and bought by professional warriors in the same period. If the lower arm fit was that important we can expect it to show up in Eastern armour as well.


And this relates to what we were discussing how?

Quote:
The evidence of the bazuband is consistent with my own experiences. The first vambraces I made did not fit so snug and my arm can rotate inside it. After months of use I have found no impairment to my fighting ability as a result. Is there a specific technique that makes such close fit important?


And you've worn high-end reproduction armor that fit properly over a correctly-made arming doublet for comparison, right?

And what, precisely, does a bazuband have to do with a 14th-century arming doublet???

Regards,
Hugh
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Hugh Knight




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PostPosted: Sat 10 Nov, 2007 4:03 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Randall Moffett wrote:
White harness usually means compete as in arms, legs, cuirass etc yet at times without helmet or greaves. I do not see how else it could be interpreted really as this is in english. On this case there is little chance that they are not more or less complete suits from what I can tell. The price shows the quality in my opinion, which is what I was/am hoping to show. The huge variety in the industry of armour and arms production. There are men who spend easily ten times this.


White harness simply means uncovered armor, it says nothing about the completeness of the harness. I suspect your quote referred to breast and backs with helmets of some sort, possibly intended to be worn over jacks.

Again, however, this still has nothing to do with a 14th-century arming doublet.

Regards,
Hugh
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Randall Moffett




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PostPosted: Sat 10 Nov, 2007 11:35 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hugh,

You need to look into a lexicon of the terminology of the times. I have looked at a number of them before arriving at this conjecture. Luckily for us in the here and now people who have read through thousands of medieval accounts, usually in large groups make dictionaries of medieval words in almost any language used of the word use. They even give possible uses and the changes over time as well as the probability of each of them. White harness has but one alternative... White harness simply means a suit without cover. It specifically indicates a suit without cover. If it were a half suit it would say. If it was an arm harness it would say so. If it were a breast and back it would cal, it so. Their deifinitions for toll tax are codified by item to make them semi-uniform to avoid issue with taxation on goods so fairly firm definition. I have also looked at hundreds of accounts of the 14th and 15th backing this definition so unless you have some sources or experts opinions for what you are saying it is basically not useful. This price is not all that unusual either. You can find fairly low prices if you look for a complete suit.

I gave an example of 16th century munitions armour as a comparison to lower class armour and that likely existed in the 15th and likely 14th. It is a quality issue and not a new phenomena. I even referenced at least one 14th century vambrace that is basically round to link them. If you want to I can make a list of the ones without the sliding vambrace from the 14th, my guess is that most lack this feature from teh 14th and early 15th.

If you really want to believe all medieval armour was fit to everyone wearing it you can. It is clearly shown in the industry, trade and commerce going on that there are loads and loads of harnesses, perhaps less the helmet and a few other bits, not made for a specific client. I'd highly recommend you look at Brokage and Portbooks which clearly indicate finished and unfinished arms being moved in great numbers to markets, fairs, towns etc. indicating exactly what I said to start that the suits INITIALLY were not made for any one in particular.

RPM
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Randall Moffett




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PostPosted: Sun 11 Nov, 2007 12:14 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Regarding the costs of the white harness- each being £2 13s. 2d. (638d.).As it is not relivant I will not put up more prices for the mid 15th to this topic but will places a few for the mid 14th pieces of armour of a suit whihc is closer to what we are looking at.

Bascinet- bascinet 43d.
leg harness (poleyns, greaves and cuisses)- 130d.
braces (arms harness of some type- perhaps the lower part)- 35d.
gauntlets 44d.
Coat of plates 157d.
sabatones 53d.

Even if incomplete one can see that the harnesses value greatly in price (about 430d.). I chose items that were not at the very bottom in most cases as well. It could be cheaper. As well as the variance in prices. Coat of plates go from 27d. to 320d. (2s. 3d. to 26s. 8p.) Bascinets are the same, 12d to 10s..

A good idea of the economy of war can be seen on Randall Storey's works on equipment of the tower where a great deal of these quick facts were found.

RPM

Edit
Here are a few more (yes the first is 1441 but it shows suits in the same order at different costs)
Milanese armor L8 6s 8d
Squire's armor L5- 16s 8d

1384- King of France purchasing harnesses for his retinue- 25 livre tournois each for a complete suit. These are upper class gear though. He places requirements of 25 pounds minimum on the harness and 4 pounds for the bascinet itself.


Last edited by Randall Moffett on Sun 11 Nov, 2007 9:33 am; edited 3 times in total
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Felix R.




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PostPosted: Sun 11 Nov, 2007 1:35 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

This discussion is, controversial, and that is good by any means. Without different points of view, we wouldn“t learn anything.

Just a funny thing to add. I have been at the Churburg armoury this year. Here is a picture of one of their late 14th cent arm harnesses, where you can see that the couter is attached to the lower lame by 2 rivets, which seem to be no sliding rivets, though, the lower cannon looks really well fitted.

On the other hand, if you look at our beloved arm harness S13, as from the pictures of the book "the churburg armoury", you can clearly see 3 rivets at the lower lame and in a side view on rivet head is protruding giving possible evidence for sliding rivets.



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Steven H




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PostPosted: Mon 12 Nov, 2007 8:02 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hugh Knight wrote:
Steven H wrote:
On the fit of vambraces: we know that the bazuband was clearly fitted to allow the wearer to rotate their arm inside since the piece can't rotate. These aren't Medieval European but they were made by professional armourers and bought by professional warriors in the same period. If the lower arm fit was that important we can expect it to show up in Eastern armour as well.


And this relates to what we were discussing how?


I considered it relevant because:
Steven H wrote:
If the lower arm fit was that important we can expect it to show up in Eastern armour as well.


To elaborate - Bazubands and related pieces of armour show up across hundreds of years and many cultures of armour making. If the snug fit of the lower arm cannon is so necessary to fighting technique then why did so many armourer's miss it for so long? (Despite seeing it on their enemies)

Hugh Knight wrote:

And you've worn high-end reproduction armor that fit properly over a correctly-made arming doublet for comparison, right?

Nope. But I have fought unarmoured quite a bit. I should think that if there is a noticeable difference from "poorly" fit it should be most obvious in comparison to no encumbrance.

Again, I have no doubt that custom fit armour is preferable. I would expect it to be more comfortable, feel lighter and be nicer to wear for long periods. However, you have not described what specific limitations there are from an off-the-shelf fit; specific techniques, situations, movements etc. that are made problematic by such armour.

The obvious advantages of custom-fit armour (which are not in dispute here), is not evidence of any particular level of commonality. A Rolls-Royce is an obviously superior vehicle to almost all cars on the road but they are still not the usual choice because they cost more. It's obvious advantages tell us nothing about its commonality.

Hugh Knight wrote:

And what, precisely, does a bazuband have to do with a 14th-century arming doublet???

You asked that twice.

I know you to be a dedicated scholar of this subject, Hugh, but you have not shared with us your sources or evidence.

Respectfully,
Steven H

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