Fixing Windlass Hilts
I just read Bill Grandy's review if the Windlass Sword of St. Michael. I like the sword, and the review looks positive, ecept the notation about the lose grip. I have in the past used Gorilla Glue inside a Windlass Hilt to tighten it up, but that hilt had a screw on pommel. Is the pommel on the Sword of St. Michael peened, or it it screw on?

I am hopeful the Gorilla Glue is actually a good long term solution, but breaking off a peen and re-peening is simply beyond my skill. Please advise.
Hi Tony,
The pommel is peened. The sword remained exactly as it was in the review: There is a slight "click" noise if you swing it quickly and bring it to a dead stop in mid-swing, but it hasn't gotten worse. It seems like they didn't do a great job putting the hilt together, but otherwise it isn't terrible.
Thanks for the response Bill.

I was just wondering if there is a simple way to fix that problem. I cannot imagine being able to successfully use a shim that would not fall out. I am much more likely to use glue, or some other expanding substance that can fill in a gap and not fall apart under the pressure of cutting or even dry handling.
Tony,
Do you have one of these and is its hilt loose? It's quite possible not every example is loose. With Windlass, it's always variable. If yours ends up being a loose one, you can always try to repeen the hilt: http://bjorn.foxtail.nu/bonk_eng.htm .
Thanks for your response Chad.

I do not have one of these, but I love the look and specs of the sword. I am just concerned that if I get one, I will be bummed out with a loose hilt. Thanks also for that instruction on tightening a loose hilt, i think I could do that.
Indeed, not all are perfect. Though the one in question is a tad loose, mine came nice and tight. It has yet to give the impression of loosening during any of the swinging(though admittedly not much) I've put it through.
I have only one Windlass from the past decade that I have had apart. In other instances that have been discussed, I think my experience agrees with other's that have had more recent stuff apart. The openings in the cross are often oversize to the blades because of the tang itself often being thicker than the blade crossection at the shoulders. In my case, the cross had to clear the 5/16" (8mm) threaded tang to finally seat against shoulders of a crossection much thinner. Mine had a click right from the start but I did not take it apart for quite some hours of use.

On any compression type hilt, threaded or peened, wedges can be inserted from the grip side of the cross if the sword is dismantled. Others have used epoxies or wedges from the blade side but it is a problem best resolved with the sword taken down. One could even braze, or silver solder the cross opening to a smaller dimension and then open it up to a tight fit with files.

This is one real advantage to the Albion method of assembly. Although both methods are seen in historical circumstance, the compression method is more prone to wiggles and loosening. This is especially true in mass production expedience.

Cheers

GC


Last edited by Glen A Cleeton on Thu 30 Aug, 2007 4:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
I had the exact same problem with my Windlass European Sword. My response was to take the whole thing apart. That was about two years ago. While I figure I can get the thing back together, its not worth it. looking back on it, I think the best thing to do is remove the grip, leaving the pommel in place and rebuild the grip. I really wish I had done this, as I now have to put the pommel back into place AND rebuild the grip. :eek:

Good luck!

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