Albion Swords and German longsword technique -- myArmoury.com

Robert B. Allison · Posted: Mon 06 Feb, 2006 9:54 am Post subject:

I would be interested to know from more knowledgeable folks than myself which of Albion's currently produced models would be optimal for German longsword technique? I'm thinking the Regent , perhaps, would be one? What about the others?

Bill Grandy · myArmoury Team

All of the double edged swords that can accomodate both hands but can still be useable in one hand if necessary. Liechtenauer doesn't really say anything else about the sword, and truth be told, as long as it's a functional sword following that advice, it'll work. Now, certain people have certain preferences, certainly, and certain swords can favor certain techniques and circumstances (the XVII blades make more sense against plate armour, for instance). Otherwise pick which ever one you happen to like. Happy

Russ Ellis · Industry Professional

If I can put a plug in here for the Talhoffer really quickly... Happy

Or the Brescia... Or the Crecy is a nice budget option. Note that I know didly about German Longsword technique but by the criteria Bill is laying out there any of those three would be absolutely outstanding.

Martin Wallgren · Posted: Mon 06 Feb, 2006 10:49 am Post subject:

It also depends on witch manual you are interested in, but I would say that one of the more tapering stiff ones from the late 15 c. would be great for you. With one of those you can do both the stuff rom the early manuals like Hanko Döbringer and Fiore as well as the later manuals like Ringeck, Talhoffer and Kal and others.

IMO

Martin

Kenton Spaulding · Posted: Mon 06 Feb, 2006 10:54 am Post subject:

I'm personally looking foward to seeing the Fiore. Based on the concept art, I think it will be my favorite of the XVa's. The waisted grip makes it stand out, and I like the look of wheel pommels. Should be nice. Like Russ, I know didly about German Longsword techniques. I think the Fiore would work great from the didly that I do know, and I think it will be very nice astetically.

Kenton

Craig Peters · Posted: Mon 06 Feb, 2006 1:18 pm Post subject:

As Bill has hinted at, the idea of an "optimal" long sword for the German tradition is perhaps misleading. Certainly, different people have different opinions about which swords are "better suited" for the German long sword tradition, but I don't think anyone would assert that one particular type is optimal. When choosing a long sword, it's largely a matter of what you want the sword to be able to do, and your personal preferences in a sword. If you're looking for swords that are good for blossfechten, you can use just about any long sword. Obviously, there are certain times that are better for harnischfechten, and others that are better for cutting, etc. What you like in swords obviously is significant in your choice. If you like more agile weapons, you probably won't want a Duke or a Baron. If you prefer cutting, you'll want swords like the Duke, Baron, Steward, or Count. Maybe you like a sword with blade presence and a good capacity to thrust. If so, go with the Sempach.

If you don't know exactly what you like in a sword, and want it for blossfechten, I would recommend any of Albion's XVa or XVI swords. They're generally a good starting point if you don't know what you want, and many people come to like them a lot.

Jeremiah Swanger · Posted: Mon 06 Feb, 2006 7:02 pm Post subject:

Jared Smith · Posted: Sat 11 Feb, 2006 6:54 pm Post subject:

Hi Robert.

I also am a biginner in longsword style. I have attended at least one workshop on longsword technique where dispute over grip length was discussed. Keep in mind that it is easy to choke hands close togather on a rather long grip, while it is quite difficult to spread hands apart if the lower hand is already just grasping the pomel. If you go for one of the longer grip models (Munich appears to be likely as a long grip), you can always hold your hands closer togather if you want to.

"Know also that a good fencer should
before all things know his sword and be able
to grip it well with both hands, between the
cross guard and the pommel since you will
then be safer than if you did grip it with
one hand on the pommel."

How my copy of a Dobringer text (interpreted by others) reads. Elsewhere I think length of a grip is recommended as at least a "span" -- 6" minimum would be my interpretation. To do the above, and avoid having one hand on the pommel while doing pommel strikes is going to take either an interpretation that the lower hand is shifted during a pommel strike, or that there is quite a bit more than 6" grip length.......

If you can, borrow some wasters and try out different length grips. I have found 8" to 10" grip length is enough, while not being too much. It will depend somewhat on your hand width and style as others have pointed out.