[Michael P. Smith]

Thanks Harry!! Exactly the kind if advice i need!

[Harry Marinakis]

Here is what I use. Obviously, the higher the melting point, the stronger the bond.

Solder melting points

1,365º - 1,450º F
Rio Grande Silver Wire Solder 22 gauge

575º F
Forney solder #38101

420º - 460º F
Oatey Safe-Flo solder #29025, #53062

361º F
Benzomatic Electrical Solder LRC464

212º F
Forney solder #61481


Not at fluxes are compatible with all of the solders. You gotta experiment to find the right flux that that solder.

And for reference:

2,610º F - Butane flame
3,730º F - MAP-Pro flame
6,000º F - oxy-acetylene flame

[Michael P. Smith]

Cheers Harry! Very helpful!

[Chad Arnow]

Maybe I missed this, but what gauge of brass did you use?

[Z. A. Williams]

Hi

I'm new here - a long time lurker but a friend encouraged me to sign up last year but I never got round to posting anything. I've made a few scabbards - will try and get some photos soon - using the carved out method. I'm wanting to make a new scabbard after being inspired by the scabbard builds in this thread, but I am wanting to use the bent slat method - laminating sounds too fiddly for me.

A quick question for those of you who have used the bent slat construction method. What thickness wood panels did you use? Is 3mm an ok thickness?

I don't have access to a steamer so I plan to soak the two wooden panels, but I cant find anything on how long you soak them for. Is it a few hours? A few days? Am I correct in assuming the water should be warm?

When assembling the core, do you glue while the wood is still wet or do you just clamp in place to form the wood to the shape of the blade and then glue once dried?

I'm fairly new to wood working so sorry for what are most likely silly questions.

[Michael P. Smith]

[Michael P. Smith]

I can tell you what I did, but won’t claim it is “right.”

I used 1/8 inch slats in of poplar, so close to 3mm. I soak them about 3-4 hours in warm water. The wood is dry when I glue it as I often have to tweak the fit. I use clamps over the form (or sometimes a plastic wrap covered blade).

[Dan D'Silva]

Hello there. I'm starting on a scabbard for a curved 18th-century sword (first time I've tried this) with a by-knife. Going by all the advice and antiques I've seen so far it looks like typical practice was to have a separate core which the knife's sheath is attached to before the whole thing is wrapped in leather.

If I use a wood core, is there any chance that the fact that the grain doesn't run along its whole length will make it likely to crack? Should I angle the blade so that the grain is at least not so short toward the point?

Would it be better in any way to use a midweight leather core?