| David Kite wrote: |
| When this line is eventually introduced, a Fechtbuch sword would be nice to see, like in Meyer. Maybe a long sword and a short sword.
David Kite ARMA in IN |
.... ;) :D :cool:
.... ;) :D :cool:
| Peter Johnsson wrote: | ||
.... ;) :D :cool: |
Teehee... I've been following Peter's indirect hints about these types of swords for a little while... I'm just waiting patiently...
| Bill Grandy wrote: |
| Teehee... I've been following Peter's indirect hints about these types of swords for a little while... I'm just waiting patiently... |
Me too :D
| Howard Waddell wrote: |
| Peter has been working on a new line of swords spoecifically designed for sparring, which we will be introducing soon. The Squire line was really intended to be an "entry level" sword with traditional construction, suitable for reenactment but not really a sparring/training weapon.
These new swords will have around a 2mm blunt edge, will be attractive, functional (not suitable for sharpening, however) and built tough. We are still discussing a name for this new line, but it will be priced around the Squire line pricing and will address some of the issues around sparring that the Squire line does not.. Best, Howy |
Count me in for a couple - let me know if you want "testers" :D , as I am sure my crew would gladly volunteer!
Howy, any chance these will be ready for our June 25/26 fundraising faire? We are having a live steel WMA tourney, and the new blades sounds like they might be just the ticket for the tourney. Let me know.
| Steve Grisetti wrote: |
| I am awfully sorry, folks. :blush: When I suggested a Squire Line version of the Svante, this was with tongue firmly planted in cheek. :blush: I would suspect that attempting to simplify the Svante in such a way would yield something that would not look like the Svante at all, except perhaps in the gross proportions, e.g., length of grip vs length of blade. |
It's cool Steve. Just the concept of a Squire Line version of the Svante sounds good. However, I must agree with Peter; in short, it just wouldn't seem practical. It wouldn't be the same. The end result may yield something that would demand a higher price tag than $400, yet may pale in comparison to Peter's Hallmark Series Svante, which is in a class by itself and should stay there. Just my thoughts. -Ted
Any plans on offering a Gladius in the Squire line? :?:
Hi! I am new at buying a sword. I have never bought a sword before so I am not that experinced in knowing what is what in the sword world. I was thinking about getting "the viking" from your squire line sometime soon and was wondering if you think that I should have it sharpend because I would like to maybe one day cut with it, plus I want it to be as realistic as I can. And since the real vikings would have had a sharpend sword I was wondering if it was wise if I requested it sharpend or not. I hope that I maked since and did not sound to ignorant. Any help on this topic would be much appreciated!
| Daniel Turner wrote: |
| Hi! I am new at buying a sword. I have never bought a sword before so I am not that experinced in knowing what is what in the sword world. I was thinking about getting "the viking" from your squire line sometime soon and was wondering if you think that I should have it sharpend because I would like to maybe one day cut with it, plus I want it to be as realistic as I can. And since the real vikings would have had a sharpend sword I was wondering if it was wise if I requested it sharpend or not. I hope that I maked since and did not sound to ignorant. Any help on this topic would be much appreciated! |
Hi Daniel!
Welcome to the sword world and to the Forum!
If this is your first sword, you may want to leave it unsharpened for now. This will give you an opportunity to get familiar with the sword and how it moves with far less danger of injury. You can always decide to have the sword sharpened later, or keep it as a practice sword and get another sharp sword for cutting.
Of course, that is a very personal decision, based on your own confidence level and other factors in your surroundings (small children, etc.).
And never worry about asking questions here -- as they say, there are no ignorant questions -- just ignorant answers!
Hope that helps.
Best,
Howy
| Howard Waddell wrote: | ||
Hi Daniel! Welcome to the sword world and to the Forum! If this is your first sword, you may want to leave it unsharpened for now. This will give you an opportunity to get familiar with the sword and how it moves with far less danger of injury. You can always decide to have the sword sharpened later, or keep it as a practice sword and get another sharp sword for cutting. Of course, that is a very personal decision, based on your own confidence level and other factors in your surroundings (small children, etc.). And never worry about asking questions here -- as they say, there are no ignorant questions -- just ignorant answers! Hope that helps. Best, Howy |
Thank you for the feed back Howy!
I just have a few mor questions.
If I ever wanted to get it sharpend would I just send it back to you or would I take it to someone else?
I was also wondering how long it would take to make the sword when I put my order in?
One more question well it be noticable that it isnt sharp if I dont get it sharp and how sharp is sharp?
Sorry for all of the questions. But I was just wondering.
Thanks for your time
| Daniel Turner wrote: |
|
Thank you for the feed back Howy! I just have a few mor questions. If I ever wanted to get it sharpend would I just send it back to you or would I take it to someone else? I was also wondering how long it would take to make the sword when I put my order in? One more question well it be noticable that it isnt sharp if I dont get it sharp and how sharp is sharp? Sorry for all of the questions. But I was just wondering. Thanks for your time |
You can send it back to us at anytime for sharpening.
We are probably looking sometime in July for delivery on one of these bud.
Here is an example of the Great sword with an edge http://www.myArmoury.com/view.html?reviews/alb_13th_2.jpg . The ones on our page do not have an edge on them. You can take a peak at any of the ones on our site for a picture of one without an edge. If you look straight on to the blade you will be able to see .5mm of blunt edge. It is not that bad though. If you decide on a sharpened version - it is a blended secondary bevel (or knife edge) on this. It is sharp enough to cut yourself - and I can testify to that. :\ :D
Let me know if you have any other questions bud.
| Daniel Turner wrote: |
|
One more question will it be noticable that it isnt sharp if I dont get it sharp and how sharp is sharp? |
Here's a picture of an unsharpened Squire Line Bastard next to a sharp Next Gen Mercenary, edge-on :
http://www.ptah.demon.nl/Swords/3.jpg
The fact that the Bastard is unsharpened is difficult to see when it's hanging on the wall, unless you know where and how to look.
"Unsharpened" is a relative thing in my opinion. In spite of the flat edge it may cut, maim and even kill when handled irresponsibly or worse.
"Sharp", judging by my Next Gen's edge, is pretty sharp. It's sharp enough to cut through skin by the weight of the sword alone.
Of course you could always request "slightly-sharper-than-blunt-sharp, or "not-very-sharp-sharp" or even "sharper-than-a-razor-sharp-sharp". :)
Welcome, Daniel!
As far as the SL Viking goes, I would probably recommend (as your first "real" sword) that you order it up unsharpened. Especially with the viking sword, you will be well served putting in some time at a pell getting comfortable with the gripping of the sword (as this is fairly unique to the type) and technique - things most safely done with a sword that won't break flesh under its own weight. Then, sharpen later if you like, buy another one of the same as a sharp (they are a pretty good value for the dollar and reasonably priced), or when you're ready for a sharp (and it sounds like you want to have the most "historically accurate" sword you can have) order up one of the Next Generation viking pieces - something with a true sword edge and maybe a rivetted multi-part pommel to taste. . .
. . . and there's a single-edged viking in the lineup that measures up to be just scary as a cutter. . .
$.02 :)
As far as the SL Viking goes, I would probably recommend (as your first "real" sword) that you order it up unsharpened. Especially with the viking sword, you will be well served putting in some time at a pell getting comfortable with the gripping of the sword (as this is fairly unique to the type) and technique - things most safely done with a sword that won't break flesh under its own weight. Then, sharpen later if you like, buy another one of the same as a sharp (they are a pretty good value for the dollar and reasonably priced), or when you're ready for a sharp (and it sounds like you want to have the most "historically accurate" sword you can have) order up one of the Next Generation viking pieces - something with a true sword edge and maybe a rivetted multi-part pommel to taste. . .
. . . and there's a single-edged viking in the lineup that measures up to be just scary as a cutter. . .
$.02 :)
I will probubly not order it sharp, and wait to get a next generation sword latter on when I get used to the squire line viking. thanks for all of the info!
Page 11 of 11
You cannot post new topics in this forumYou cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
All contents © Copyright 2003-2006 myArmoury.com — All rights reserved
Discussion forums powered by phpBB © The phpBB Group
Switch to the Full-featured Version of the forum
Discussion forums powered by phpBB © The phpBB Group
Switch to the Full-featured Version of the forum