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Brian K.
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined: 01 Jan 2008

Posts: 712

PostPosted: Mon 09 Jan, 2017 10:49 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Mark Moore wrote:
I've often wondered.....Would it be feasible to veeery carefully measure a scabbard core, then veeeery carefully cut and stitch your leather INSIDE-OUT, then slip it on the core? Kinda like putting on a...uhh...condom? WTF?! Yes? No? Thoughts?...McM


Highly difficult and actually more difficult than other methods. You would also ruin a 'smooth' finish of veg tan leather and instead give it a 'wrinkled' look.

Brian Kunz
www.dbkcustomswords.com
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Mark Moore




Location: East backwoods-assed Texas
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PostPosted: Mon 09 Jan, 2017 10:57 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

That's sort of what I was thinking. I've got an old dagger scabbard I may try it on....just for giggles. Happy Thanks!......McM
''Life is like a box of chocolates...'' --- F. Gump
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George Hill




Location: Atlanta Ga
Joined: 16 May 2005

Posts: 614

PostPosted: Mon 09 Jan, 2017 6:51 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Brian K. wrote:
A properly sized scabbard end will actually provide a great 'friction' fit and if desired only a tiny bit of adhesive is needed to last a long time.


Thank you Brian! I've long eyed your work appreciatively. What sort of adhesive do you recommend?

To abandon your shield is the basest of crimes. - --Tacitus on Germania
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Brian K.
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined: 01 Jan 2008

Posts: 712

PostPosted: Mon 09 Jan, 2017 9:36 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

George Hill wrote:
Brian K. wrote:
A properly sized scabbard end will actually provide a great 'friction' fit and if desired only a tiny bit of adhesive is needed to last a long time.


Thank you Brian! I've long eyed your work appreciatively. What sort of adhesive do you recommend?


Depends on if you want to be completely historically accurate and say your chape is being held on by something used 'back in the day'. I like to use a simple leather glue. It bonds to the chape quite well, and if you use it sparingly I've found removing the chape, if necessary, can be done.

Brian Kunz
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Leo Todeschini
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PostPosted: Tue 10 Jan, 2017 12:01 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Brian Kunz wrote
Quote:
A properly sized scabbard end will actually provide a great 'friction' fit and if desired only a tiny bit of adhesive is needed to last a long time.


Historically the scabbard and the chape would have been made by different people and probably not made to fit together, the scabbard maker would simply buy a bucket of chapes and use them, so a fit was by no means guaranteed. This woeful lack of fit can be seen on scabbard fittings as well as sword guards, grips and blades which were often packed out with all manner of wood etc. Rattly sword guards must have been the norm.

Knife scabbards are shown being sold separately from knives and so again historically the fit must have often been dreadful and I do not know, but I suspect that low grade sword scabbards were generally sold in the same way, so our modern preoccupation with 'fit' I think is not a historical thing. Like the rest of you though, I do find a well fitted scabbard a pleasing thing, but so many aspects of neatness, finish and aesthetics that we take as the norm, they simply didn't seem to care about.

I make all my own scabbard fittings, either as fabrications made on the leather covered core or as castings sized from my cores and getting an exact fit is a rare thing.

By chance yesterday I fitted a chape to a core that I had to pull off in a vice, but as I say that is rare and it is more usual that the chape is a stiff push on and pull off, but that is more likely to be a local interference near the throat of the chape rather than a 'perfect' fit all the way to the bottom and so I prefer to 'belt and braces' it with a tough adhesive.

I could fix them on with pins, but they will always be and feel a little insecure (as they would have done back in the day), but that doesn't work for my regular customers, though I have done it on request.

As regards Mark Moores question about 'inside out' Brian K wrote
Quote:
Highly difficult and actually more difficult than other methods. You would also ruin a 'smooth' finish of veg tan leather and instead give it a 'wrinkled' look.


I agree wholly and if you get it on at all it will be baggy. It only works with very thin leather or 'pleather' Windlass style.


Tod

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Mark Moore




Location: East backwoods-assed Texas
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PostPosted: Tue 10 Jan, 2017 6:44 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I actually was planning on using thin leather in my experiment with the old dagger scabbard. It's very smooth, like suede, on the inside, and rather grainy-pebble like on the outside. I'll try it and see how it comes out. I'm not looking for masterpiece quality...like SOME scabbard makers here. Laughing Out Loud Laughing Out Loud Laughing Out Loud Who knows...if it comes out decent, I may give it a shot on a sword scabbard some day. I've gotta do something for my H/T Norman...scabbard LOOKS fine, but falling apart internally. Sad ...McM
''Life is like a box of chocolates...'' --- F. Gump
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