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Lancelot Chan
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Shahril Dzulkifli
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 Posted: Wed 27 Jan, 2016 7:07 am Post subject: Cutting with a sharpened blunt from Longship Armoury. |
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Just saw that video.
You have power over your mind - not outside events. Realize this, and you will find strength
- Marcus Aurelius
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Lancelot Chan
Industry Professional
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Matthew P. Adams
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| Posted: Sat 30 Jan, 2016 7:11 am Post subject: |
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That bevel looks great! Excellent work and thanks for sharing.
"We do not rise to the level of our expectations. We fall to the level of our training" Archilochus, Greek Soldier, Poet, c. 650 BC
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Lancelot Chan
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sat 30 Jan, 2016 7:15 am Post subject: |
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| Matthew P. Adams wrote: | | That bevel looks great! Excellent work and thanks for sharing. |
Yes. One thing about hand sharpening all the way was that I can ensure the bevels are symmetric! Which is hard to come by these days unless on high priced Japanese polish. 
Ancient Combat Association http://www.acahk.org
Realistic Sparring Weapons http://www.rsw.com.hk
Nightstalkers http://www.nightstalkers.com.hk
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Sat 30 Jan, 2016 9:44 am Post subject: |
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Hand sharpening can take a lot of patience and hard work but it's much easier to control and not screw up the edge.
Using a belt sander to start the bevel and finishing by hand is sort of a cheating shortcut but best to finish by hand if one has the skill due to years or decades of hand sharpening knives.
Using a bench stone wheel grinder is asking for a rough and very badly made secondary bevel due to vibration with most abrasive wheel type grinders.
With a blunt you will probably get a wider secondary bevel than with a sword made to be a sharp, but it will be a very robust edge.
The difference between a good cutting edge and the best cutting edge you can make. ( The poor victim would likely lose a limb from any decent cut either way ).
In any case your cuts look very clean ! Skill is also a factor I think because a very good cutter can get better cuts with a marginally sharp blade than a bad cutter can get with a razor sharp blade.
( Note writing this as I eat sushi and drinking some saki, so forgive any typos that the " Spellchecker " may have missed and that I might also miss .....    )
I guess one can praise your sharpening technique as much as your competence with actual cutting.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Lancelot Chan
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sat 30 Jan, 2016 9:51 am Post subject: |
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Thanks again for your nice words.
Yes, I actually considered doing coarse grind with a work sharp tool but I dun own one. Plus I am quite sensitive to noise, with my wife even more so. So nah, that's outta question.
Have you checked the videos I just put up about our third visit to a friendly dojo for test cutting? I tried out some new techniques there (well, not so new but never cut tatami with them before).
Once again thanks for watching and your nice reply!
| Jean Thibodeau wrote: | Hand sharpening can take a lot of patience and hard work but it's much easier to control and not screw up the edge.
Using a belt sander to start the bevel and finishing by hand is sort of a cheating shortcut but best to finish by hand if one has the skill due to years or decades of hand sharpening knives.
Using a bench stone wheel grinder is asking for a rough and very badly made secondary bevel due to vibration with most abrasive wheel type grinders.
With a blunt you will probably get a wider secondary bevel than with a sword made to be a sharp, but it will be a very robust edge.
The difference between a good cutting edge and the best cutting edge you can make. ( The poor victim would likely lose a limb from any decent cut either way ).
In any case your cuts look very clean ! Skill is also a factor I think because a very good cutter can get better cuts with a marginally sharp blade than a bad cutter can get with a razor sharp blade.
( Note writing this as I eat sushi and drinking some saki, so forgive any typos that the " Spellchecker " may have missed and that I didn't also miss ..... )
I guess one can praise your sharpening technique as much as your competence with actual cutting. |
Ancient Combat Association http://www.acahk.org
Realistic Sparring Weapons http://www.rsw.com.hk
Nightstalkers http://www.nightstalkers.com.hk
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Sat 30 Jan, 2016 10:27 am Post subject: |
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| Lancelot Chan wrote: | Thanks again for your nice words.
Yes, I actually considered doing coarse grind with a work sharp tool but I dun own one. Plus I am quite sensitive to noise, with my wife even more so. So nah, that's outta question.
Have you checked the videos I just put up about our third visit to a friendly dojo for test cutting? I tried out some new techniques there (well, not so new but never cut tatami with them before).
Once again thanks for watching and your nice reply!
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I may have missed some of your videos although I usual view most of them.
I've used a tungsten carbide sharpening tools to start the bevels on at least one Del Tin I hand sharpened as the aggressive carbide did a quick job of establishing the secondary bevels, but I did finish using a diamond hone and then ceramic hones.
Something like this on KoA, maybe not the same brand ? In any case the " V " shaped cutting edge on the tool does produce a symmetrical bevel, but it does tend to be wavy and rough and needs work to smoothen out with finer abrasive tools.
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=...+Sharpener
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Lancelot Chan
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sat 30 Jan, 2016 11:04 am Post subject: |
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You can check the three links that I posted in reply. Those were the students' test cuts. You will notice that they were using the swords that I later tested with.
Accusharp works. Just that it set the angle already, which is good for those who dun want the freedom of screwing up.
I use diamond all the way, from 60 to 8000 grits, then finish with felt block.
| Jean Thibodeau wrote: | | Lancelot Chan wrote: | Thanks again for your nice words.
Yes, I actually considered doing coarse grind with a work sharp tool but I dun own one. Plus I am quite sensitive to noise, with my wife even more so. So nah, that's outta question.
Have you checked the videos I just put up about our third visit to a friendly dojo for test cutting? I tried out some new techniques there (well, not so new but never cut tatami with them before).
Once again thanks for watching and your nice reply!
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I may have missed some of your videos although I usual view most of them.
I've used a tungsten carbide sharpening tools to start the bevels on at least one Del Tin I hand sharpened as the aggressive carbide did a quick job of establishing the secondary bevels, but I did finish using a diamond hone and then ceramic hones.
Something like this on KoA, maybe not the same brand ? In any case the " V " shaped cutting edge on the tool does produce a symmetrical bevel, but it does tend to be wavy and rough and needs work to smoothen out with finer abrasive tools.
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=...+Sharpener |
Ancient Combat Association http://www.acahk.org
Realistic Sparring Weapons http://www.rsw.com.hk
Nightstalkers http://www.nightstalkers.com.hk
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This is a standard topic