Just got this seax from Ben Potter. It's got a 3-bar pattern-welded blade by Owen Bush, and the rest of the work is by Ben Potter.

A real beauty! He did a fantastic job at finishing this knife to my specifications. I am extremely pleased.

Edit: I think the website where I originally hosted the photos had some bandwidth issues, so I reloaded the photos to this site.

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Harry - Hope its just my pc but nothing to see? If its not just me please repost the pics, I miss Ben's work, & a mix of his & Owen's...!! - Carl

Great stuff on this thread. Here's one that I dont think I've placed here. Blade by Michael Pikula, the rest by me. Overall length 24", blade length 16.5". Width at base: 1.8". Thickness at base: 0.2", more like .25" towards the break. Width where the spine breaks: 1.7". Handle of old ash.

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Three recently finished (in the end of May) langseaxes:

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They share almost identical blades with close lengths, and equal widths and distal tapering. The main differences are in the tip areas and quite obviously - in the hilts.
For the future projects I definitely need narrower blades (36 - 38 mm instead of 40 as now) - then the hour-glass shape of the grips would be not such extreme. The other things I'm not quite pleased with, are the metal fittings of the scabbards, and particularly the rivets - this time I didn't managed to make them as I usually want.

* The Norwegian - my chopper for the events I participate in :D

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One particular reason I made the hilt in such manner was my desire to test a multi-layer construction - here I have steel-copper-bronze-copper-steel billet, all held together with rivets.

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** The guard and the pommel of this one

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have a historical analogue, kept in the Museum in Nijmegen, Netherlands.
The grip - core of an oak, brass, bone, bufallo horn - is, of course, purely fictional.

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*** The last one with non-riveted construction

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is fully product of my imagination - of course, as always, I've tried to make the things historically correct.
The guard and pommel are bronze, the grip - buffalo horn, brass, accacia, walnut.

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Perhaps, I should try to cut the motif in the middle

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in opposite manner - convex ropes and immersed surrounding area - but anyway the result is good for a first try.

The last two langseaxes are intended for sale.
So, if someone is interested in - please, send me a PM in order to provide more images and to discuss the details.

Love the variety, Boris. I quite like the stacked construction seax, and the gentle hourglass grip!

Also really diggin' your admitted fantasy-but-functional looking seax: the world needs more really good looking fantasy pieces

Blunted seax for reenactment fighting.
Oak, deer antler and leather in the handle. Made by me.

Blade based on Bjäärs 17 (Gotland, Sweden, 7th century) and made by TC. Its a realy nice blade, but a bit on the heavy side.


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I have recently received my latest seax, made by Ryan Stevens, and thought this would be a good time to show off some of my collection.

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Top: Ryan Stevens, overall length: 23.6 cm. Crape Myrtle and African Blackwood handle
Bottom: George Ezell, overall length: 20.8 cm. Laurel burl Handle

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Top: Petr Florianek, overall length: 41 cm. The hilt is Boxwood, carved in the 9th century trewhiddle style
Bottom: Antoine Marçal, overall length: 32.4 cm. Maple burl handle

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Top: Owen Bush blade, Walnut hilt by me, overall length: 62.3 cm.

I've made this one for myself and don't actually use it for reenactment, but when I go camping. It's a rather crude work recycling an old machete I've found once. The blade is 25cm long.

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Hello gents,

you guys have some sexy seax's.

I particularly like Robert Muse from the made dwarf.

Here is my humble tinker.

The picture doesn't do this justice.

Does anyone know the style or Aprrox time period for this blade?

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Thanks for the praise onto the saex itself, and truth be told, I've only noticed the sheat issue after you've mentioned it. Since I don't use it for reenactment, I guess I'll only make a new "correct" one once this one is worn out, but when this happens, the next one will surely have the sharp edge facing upwards.

As for fighting, I've never used it, even less with a shield (have only used sword and axes), but that technique kind of makes sense. I did had some training with smaller knives, and on a figthing stance I do grab 'em with the sharp edge pointing outwards, but the blade is also on a backward angle, so I can also punch with that hand and if grabbed, it's harder to twist it so they can make me stab myself (like we see in many movies)

I haven't posted here for some time, but have these to show.

1. A Wolf Tooth pattern by George Ezell based off of one displayed in the Irish National Museum

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And last, but not least this one by Lech Budaj an artist best known for Japanese swords

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Here's my latest acquisition, which is a broken back seax made by Matthew Parkinson of Dragon's Breath forge. According to Matthew, the blade is a 4-bar composite of 1084 and 15n20: the edge is initially a 27-layer twist, with another 9-layer twist flanking it, a second 9-layer twist, and a third 9-layer twist on the edge again. He also carved Huginn and Muninn into the handle, as well as Odin's face on the back. It's got a beefy 9.75-inch blade, and is 14 inches in overall length.

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Bought a Jaeger seax last year and made a sheath for it:

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From George Ezell

Top: 3-1/2 in blade
Bottom: 8 inch blade - 16 inches long overall

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Those look great Harry. I love George Ezell's work and hope to get one from him this year.

At this point you should do a group photo. That Bush/Potter one is awesome, and two more makers I hope to have works from someday.

Here is my seax, made for me by a friend. Blade is 12" and has intertwined snakes engraved, handle is stained oak with interlace carving and brass pommel cap and ferrule, sheath is hardened leather with dragon motif, sheath has brass mounts.

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