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Forum Index > Off-topic Talk > Albion pommels rust too quickly, too easily Reply to topic
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Mark Griffin




Location: The Welsh Marches, in the hills above Newtown, Powys.
Joined: 28 Dec 2006

Posts: 802

PostPosted: Mon 09 Dec, 2013 2:44 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You don't need to look very far to discover period polishing techniques and materials, any pre-industrial revolution metal working info will give you plenty of details.

You need an abrasive, anything from sharp sand to rotten stone (basically a very soft sand or limestone that's very weak and crumbly) to pumice flour. All still commercially available to fine metal workers, jewellers etc. The Royal Armouries accounts certainly show pumice flour imports.

Mix with ash and fat and hey presto, a polishing compound/soap. Its not unusual to see water powered (never seen wind, but wasn't looking) grinding (corn, bark etc) wheels being rented out for polishing and sharpening services. put a leather belt on it and you'd get a nice strop to apply the polishing soap to.

The same soaps can be used with elbow grease of course. Many's the time I've got some fine river sand or mud, mixed it with fat and fire ash and sat by a fire at an event and given a sallet a bit of going over. Gives a very nice finish although don't do it if you are a hand model for a major beauty product manufacturer with a photo shoot the next day...

In the UK these guys produce the abrasives, no idea if they stock abroad.
[url]
http://www.liberon.co.uk/[/url]
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Hartoyo Barlian





Joined: 24 Jan 2012
Likes: 2 pages

Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed 11 Dec, 2013 10:27 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Just want to add some pics of my Kingmaker pommel rust...

The good thing is I can remove it easily (which I did last night). The sword was stuck in courier warehouse for almost 4 weeks (custom issue) so it developed the rust on the pommel. Fortunately the blade was clean of rust since it's protected by the scabbard.





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Matthew P. Adams




Location: Cape Cod, MA
Joined: 08 Dec 2008
Likes: 8 pages

Posts: 462

PostPosted: Thu 12 Dec, 2013 12:10 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

That's about what I would expect a piece of carbon steel to look like after a month, if it hadn't been oiled before storage.

I use this stuff http://www.fluid-film.com/products/

designed for marine environments, and made from sheep's lanolin.

"We do not rise to the level of our expectations. We fall to the level of our training" Archilochus, Greek Soldier, Poet, c. 650 BC
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Greg Ballantyne




Location: Maryland USA
Joined: 14 Feb 2011
Likes: 1 page

Posts: 235

PostPosted: Sun 15 Dec, 2013 6:01 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

gun oil works for me - I've got some of those silicone impregnated cloths, but never used one on a sword. I don't have any Albion's though....
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Marko J.





Joined: 21 Jul 2009

Posts: 36

PostPosted: Mon 16 Dec, 2013 10:04 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I once owned two Albions, Ritter and Senlac. I regularly oiled them with gun oil, and when I say regularly I mean AT LEAST twice a month, but the swords just kept on picking up rust, especially the Senlac. The rust appeared on the pommel, bettwen the leather grip and the pommel, between the cross guard and leather grip and on the cross guard where it was touching the scabbard throat. I kept both swords in quality hand made scabbards but it seemed that the blades didn't pick any rust. I really liked both swords, but in the end they proved to be far too expensive to be sitting in a corner and picking up rust, so both had to go. Only at that time I realised the value of the stainless steel sword parts. I had one VA Signature sword some years ago and I never had any rusting issues with it...
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D. S. Smith




Location: Central CA
Joined: 02 Oct 2011

Posts: 236

PostPosted: Wed 18 Dec, 2013 5:59 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I believe it's a combination of the metal composition and the owner's body chemistry. The reason I say this is I've experienced both. My skin is naturally pretty oily (only have to look at my pillow cases to determine that), and I tend to rust things pretty fast, much faster than other people I know. Out of the four stainless steel S&W revolvers I've owned, three of them had horrible rusting problems when I'd so much as look at them. The fourth never showed a spec of rust, even with far less frequent maintenance. And then I have carbon steel guns where the bluing is worn off and never had any rust even in the bare areas, some of which are not wiped down for literally years on end.

As for swords, my Albion Knight seems to gather rust spots FAR faster than my Crecy, and Laird did. It's still too early to tell on the Sempach, but no rust so far. I also live less than a mile from the ocean, so a fairly salty air environment. Based on these experiences, I have to say that the composition of the metal absolutely has to play a role in it, with such varied results even from the same manufacturers using the same "type" of metal. On the other hand, I know that I also cause rust faster than other people I know simply because of my body chemistry.

When I first got my Knight I really sweated the rust issue (pun intended), because it was so fast and noticeable. But after removing it a couple times with scotchbright and breakfree, I now no longer let it keep me from enjoying it. I figure a little rust can actually make it look sort of cool, I'm just careful to get to it before it starts pitting.
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Sean O Stevens




Location: Grovetown, GA
Joined: 22 Oct 2008

Posts: 208

PostPosted: Sat 21 Dec, 2013 6:45 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I currently only own 2 Albion swords... but I have owned about 15 others in the past. I'm in Georgia... hot and humid aye. My Albion's furniture, pommel and guard, DO like to rust fast also... as have my Atrim swords. Not sure why... but they both rust noticeably quicker then my Odinblades, Tinker swords, Windlass, Hanwei, BKS, Kris Cutlery, Fable Blades, Mad Dwarf Workshop, Arms & Armor, and so on.

Not sure why.
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