Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Fri 05 Oct, 2012 8:39 am
| Nathan Robinson wrote: |
| Sean Flynt wrote: | | having un-done at least one if these and one A&A grip, I have no concerns about durability. as a test, get some chamois and try to tear it. the bigger question is about the adhesive. i use woodglue, which is water soluble, while Albion and some others use epoxy. i'm sure the epoxy is more durable in theory, but is probably a step farther away from historical construction. |
Albion uses a hide glue for the leather on their grips. They may use another product for the two wooden halves of the grip itself. |
Ahhh, that explains why there's no visible adhesive on the grip of my Albion. I guess it got sucked up by the leather and then whatever remained after the wrap came off probably wore off under sweaty hands.
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Fri 05 Oct, 2012 8:53 am
I'd like to do a test in which I dye and mount sections of chamois and equivalent top-grain side by side on a tool handle or walking stick, finished in my usual style. Just to see how they wear in regular use and different weather.
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Fri 05 Oct, 2012 9:34 am
In one thread here, Peter Johnsson mentions using goatskin under the wire binding of one of his grips. I got excited when I read that, but then on further reflection figured he was probably using a fine top-grain skin from the Uppsala Val-Mart.
Posts: 170 Location: Los Angeles
Fri 05 Oct, 2012 9:39 am
I just want to pop in and say that I love the way this sword turned out. I'm always amazed at what you come up with and to what degree elements change from the versions at the start. I'd never have imagined that the Windlass guard could end up like that.
Though now I'm just itching to see what you're going to do with that A&A durer blade! :lol:
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Fri 05 Oct, 2012 9:47 am
| Zach Luna wrote: |
I just want to pop in and say that I love the way this sword turned out. I'm always amazed at what you come up with and to what degree elements change from the versions at the start. I'd never have imagined that the Windlass guard could end up like that.
Though now I'm just itching to see what you're going to do with that A&A durer blade! :lol: |
Yeah, the Dürer! I don't know what I'm going to do with that thing, much less the Albion Squire Line great sword. Thanks to Julien M. I now have a set of A&A Erbach castings, and those would be stylistically appropriate for either blade. Not sure about balance and proportion, though, so I'm going to work on a 14th c. piece that I'm more confident about and should be an easier build.
As for the Windlass guard--I'm getting to the point that I think it's not worth the trouble to do so much work to reduce an off-the-shelf piece. A stick welder is $100, and I suspect that my next step is to add elements (side rings, etc.) to existing plain guards. I have some salvaged round stock I'd like to try converting to straight trumpeted crosses, too. Just bought 10 1"x2" wheel pommel blanks, so I guess I'm heading for more DIY although I'll still pick up good deals on hilt components as they're available.
Posts: 82 Location: Central Oregon
Fri 05 Oct, 2012 10:45 am
| Sean Flynt wrote: |
| One thing I do to improve durability is place the leading edge of the overlapped seam so that it falls under the fingers when the sword is gripped. In other words, the hand is always pulling the grip in the direction of the wrap rather than against it. |
That is a great idea! The only problem is that I frequently swap true edge/false edge when training to try and keep blade wear even. Still, an idea I'll have to play with.
Posts: 86
Fri 05 Oct, 2012 8:31 pm
This has been an amazing thread to see from start to finish. I'm only glad I found it after the piece was completed- I don't know that I could have taken the suspense. Truly stunning work.
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Sat 06 Oct, 2012 4:56 am
thanks! it was only about 15 months! :lol:
Posts: 700 Location: Bourgas, Bulgaria
Sun 07 Oct, 2012 2:19 pm
Excellent sword!
Congratulations!
| Sean Flynt wrote: |
| it was only about 15 months! :lol: |
Don't you mind! My own "Yushman Project" took me almost 36 months (yes - three years) so far, and still is not completed. ;) :\
Posts: 86
Sun 07 Oct, 2012 4:42 pm
In retrospect, fifteen months doesn't seem terrifically long. I've been tinkering with a DIY sword on and off for an upsettingly long time. This is pretty inspirational.
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Mon 08 Oct, 2012 7:13 am
| Boris Petrov Bedrosov wrote: |
Excellent sword!
Congratulations!
| Sean Flynt wrote: | | it was only about 15 months! :lol: |
Don't you mind! My own "Yushman Project" took me almost 36 months (yes - three years) so far, and still is not completed. ;) :\ |
Your Yushman project is far more impressive! In any case, I wasn't working on this piece constantly. Mostly, it was sitting on my bench while I figured out what to do next and tried to find time to do it. Typical.
Posts: 11,553 Location: San Francisco
Fri 19 Oct, 2012 1:41 pm
I just revisited this topic and must say how much I like how this project turned out. I've been on a late 15th/16th century longsword kick for awhile now and this fits right in. Very nicely done!
Posts: 5,981 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Fri 19 Oct, 2012 1:48 pm
| Nathan Robinson wrote: |
| I just revisited this topic and must say how much I like how this project turned out. I've been on a late 15th/16th century longsword kick for awhile now and this fits right in. Very nicely done! |
Thanks! There's a tremendous amount of variety in every component--there's hardly a way to get tired of these, and new combinations pop up pretty regularly. Just noticed this one at the Kunsthistorisches.
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