and i have heard a ew comments that some of the swords in that line are bdly blanced wth oversixzed pommels etc.
my sword is, in particular the hanwei practical norman, a blade i purchased for two reasons 1 it was cheap and available locally at a shop in the inner city, 2 it fit into the later period of the viking era (the twilight of that period but close enough for me) and it wouldnt look totally out of place in a later medieval period reenactment if i decided to join a group from a later period. meaning i wouldnt have to buy a whole new sword, which i would have if i went with the 3 lobe pommel of the viking sword.
http://www.casiberia.com/prod_Detail.aspx?id=SH2326
one thing ive noticed handling better replicas of various norman and viking blades(also rebated) is that mine feels quite clunky in comparison, and those swords often have thinn er blades, and apparently compared to another norman type sword, have closer POB's to the handlemaking them lot less blade heavy which, unless im mistaken most type X and XA and XI blades wernt very blade heavy. being more thin broad slicing blades.
here are sone stats on the sword to give you a mental picture.
blade length 76cm
overall length 91.75cm/ 3 feet long,
POB 14cm/ 5 1/2" from crossguard
weight 1.1kg
blade width 4cm at base tapering to 2.1cm at the tip
blade thickness roughly changes from 2.5mm-2mm below the tip, very little distal taper
pommel, 6.2 wide X 4cm tall X 3cm. thich at the widest point, pommel type is a tea cosy pommel.
and COP is 23cm from the tip. or 53cm from the crossguard
now ive heard that the usual way to bring the POB back towards the handle i hear is to femove material from the end of the blade.
(due to its size, i keep feeling i should grind down at the pommel (having the added effect of making the pommel less wide and thus less likely to dig into my hand when swung.)
so im hoping my first instinct of removing blade material would be the correct way to go?


hanwei practcal norman sword