[Ken Jay]

I have an Atrim XVIII blade needing some re-profiling. The point is a bit carp tongued. I would think the blade will need shorting about an inch and re-profiled to a less needle sharp point. Any recommendations as to who could take on re-doing the blade point?

[Mike Capanelli]

I'm in the same boat with a XIIa Albion blade. I may after all just go at it with a belt grinder. I've also been told to use files as a safer way of removing material without the risk of screwing up the heat treatment.

[Justin Lee Hunt]

I know that windslass isn't the highest end blade out there, but I've had to modify quit a few to meet the requirements of my group. I've found that a good file gives you the best results. Grinders are ok, but the file gives you the most control and the least amount of burs and/or heat. It might take forever to shape a blade this way, but the end results are worth it.

[Mikko Kuusirati]

[Ken Jay]

I agree about the dangers of using a belt sander and am uncertain to my skill in taking files to the blade. I was hoping someone might suggest a smith able to do this.

[Richard Eskite]

[Paul Hansen]

Hmm, I would have imagined that one of the sword makers who visit this forum would have suggested something to you via PM... I'd guess that one of the stock-removal makers could help you with it...

If not, then maybe someone who usually polishes Japanese blades?

Btw, I know it may be a bit off-topic, but aren't Atrims have a hardness level that's a bit too high to use files on?

[Johan Gemvik]

If you guys end up using power tools, since I've done stock removal like this for about a decade and a half by now, here's a few tricks to it that you'll probably find quite helpful.

First, to get the profile right, make a cardboard template, then use that to mark the tip profile on both sides of the blade the same using a medium thick permanent felt marker.

There are several easy ways to avoid burn (where you lessen or even remove the tempering from excessive friction heat).
One way is to dip the blade in a bucket of cold water every other turn with the machine.
Another is to wrap a soaked towel around it near the work area.
Another is to get cooling fluid for machining, rig up a drip on the work object continually while grinding. This could get very messy though and suits milling and drilling work far better.

The first of these is by far the easiest to set up.

To know when to cool you can hold the blade with an unglvoed hand while working, the hand furthest away from the grinder, the other needs a glove obviously. This'll let you know right away if it starts to get hot, dip as soon as it's getting uncomfortable to hold. On the other hand you're working without the protection of a glove, which is risky if you're using an angle grinder or coarse paper belt grinder. Or a sharp sword. Tape up the edges real good first if it is.

Don't forget, always use eye protection, breathing mask and a chaperone in a durable material when machine grinding. You really don't want that dust made out of half grinding belt sand and half metal particles to get into your lungs. You don't want it in your eyes either. Nor do you want the grinder to take out gouges of your gut.

[Eric W. Norenberg]