[Aleksei Sosnovski]

I am planning to sew a set of 15 century clothes and have a question about sewing garments that have linings (for example doublets). How should I make seams? It is a little bit difficult for me to explain what exactly I want to know, but I will try.

I have some experience with sewing, but so far my goal was to make things that worked. Now i want to make as historically accurate things as possible. When I was sewing my padded arming doublet I made all pieces separately, wrapped all edges so no padding or cut edges was visible and then joined the pieces using "butt seam" so that they look same on inside as on outside. Result was very good. The seams are flat and therefore cause no discomfort. The only problem is that the stitching is clearly visible (see attached photo). Stitching thread may also be prone to wearing out but i haven't had this problem yet. But I am not sure that it is the right technique to use. Basically I can think of 3 different options:
- sew lining and outer layer pieces together to form 2 separate garments, insert one inside another and then sew together at wrists, collar and other edges
- sew each piece of outer layer with corresponding piece of lining leaving a small gap, turn inside out, close the gap and then join resulting 2-layered pieces together with same seam I used on my arming doublet
- do as described in the previous option but sew the pieces together with "normal" seam (so that seams are not flat but some material sticks to the inside). Can I use one of the above-described options, or is there a completely different proper way for doing it?

Thanks in advance for help.

[Thomas R.]

Hi Aleks,

you could try a in german called "Kappnaht", as shown in the picture. You sew the pieces together with a normal running stitch, then you fold them like in the picture and sew along the second fold with a seaming stitch (not shown in picture). The result is a very enduring and flat seam on which both sides can't fray. Such seams were used throughout the medieval era.

http://www.handarbeitswelt.de/files/uBastelfr...rechts.JPG

Thomas

[Glennan Carnie]

Aleksei,

It's nice to see a properly fitted garment for a change, rather than an off-the-shelf one.

I don't think the problem is with what you're doing, but with how you're doing it.

Whipping (semi) finished panels together into a complete garment seems to have been a common technique for construction; and the results match extant garments and the artwork of the period.

When you join panels try putting them outside faces together first, then whip them, then open out the seam flat. This should hide much of the visible stitching.

Next, medieval garments were constructed by trained tailors, who spent literally years learning to hand sew to a very high standard. The stitching should be tiny - almost invisible. I would aim for about 8 stitches to the inch (3 stitches / cm) or higher, with stitches no more than a few mm long.

Below is a close-up of my Tudor doublet. It is constructed in the same way as yours. You can see (or, rather, you can't see!) how fine the stitching is; and how flat the seams lie.

[Christopher Treichel]

where did you get the pattern for that one? I really like some of the earlier patterns where everything is fitted to a specific portion of the body...

[Dan Rosen]

Glennan,

Is there any chance you could post more pictures of the lining/construction?

Thanks,

-Dan

[Mikael Ranelius]

If you want to pice together i lined garment there are two period ways I would recommend:

1) Sew both lining and outer fabric at the same time, i.e. you simultaniously stitch through four layers, then press the double seam allowances apart and hem-stitch them in place. The finished result will look something like this on the inside of the garment.

2) Another method is to fold the raw edges of the lining and outer fabric in towards each other, then stitch a "zig zag" running-stitch through the layers as illustrated here. The finished result will appear like this on the inside of the garments.

[Aleksei Sosnovski]

[Tristán Zukowski]

[Glennan Carnie]

[Christopher Treichel]

For best fit I would actually recommend baste/sewing the liner on to the person. It takes longer but is probably the only way to get a 100% spot on fit. I make clothes for 16th and 18th century and some of the 18th century clothes such as the breeches, weskit and coat need to be extremely form fitting in order to move with the body and not constrict.

Your pictures are very fascinating and thank you for the links... I have made some farsetto so far for some Italian sets but those seem much simpler than what you are working at.

[N Cioran]

There are a couple of paintings from the fifteenth century that show an alternate panel construction. The outer of each panel is cut wider than neccessary, then sewn together and folded over the lining so that it shows through on the inside of the garment. I suspect that this would allow the garment to be unpicked and refitted if neccessary, extending its lifespan.

I know I have the pics somewhere, I just need to track them down...

Thanks
Cole

[Aleksei Sosnovski]

I am glad that a thread started by me gathered so much valuable material. Special thanks to Glennan for his excellent photos. I have already started sewing a new "pourpoint" (vest-like thing to tie my leg armor to). It's not historically accurate, but is a good thing to train proper sewing techniques on. Making these tiny stitches drives me mad, especially considering that I have to push/pull my needle with pliers because the fabric is very dense, but the result is well worth the effort.