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M. Eversberg II
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Posted: Wed 29 Apr, 2009 10:38 pm Post subject: The Windlass "Gladiator" sword |
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Example: http://kultofathena.com/product~item~501124.htm
Seems like an interesting piece as far as a-historical models go. I noticed a few members here re-doing Windlass and other cheaper models into better, more "expensive" looking pieces and thought I would bring this one up. From the photographs, it looks like it would be the start of a good project.
Obvious Improvements
*The grip is very rectangular and squared off. It appears to be solid varnished wood, probably held in place with some kind of epoxy. This would have to be removed in order to inspect the tang and attach a better, more serviceable grip.
*The hilt components are of some kind of antiqued brass. The pommel is threaded on, which means removing and replacing the grip becomes slightly easier. The guard (or what amounts to one on Roman styled blades) seems to have some kind of groove cut into it. This could stay, be replaced, or ground out. The guard is not flush with the blade.
*The blade is the usual shiny steel, though I do not know how well heat treated it is/isn't. Has a wasted, Mainz-like blade.
*The scabbard is your usual Windlass, with black leather.
*Price point is 130USD.
I don't know how long this one's been out there, but Google and search of the SBG doesn't turn up any reviews that I spotted. A single post at SBG references it, but only as part of a large photograph:
It appears to be part of a "top twelve" thread, which is encouraging.
It looks as if it might be upgradable. Certainly not a historical piece, but you could easily turn it into a unique custom piece (had I the cash, I'd personally send it in to C. Fletcher for a suitable guard and scabbard; "fantasy" style leaf blade acquired!).
M.
This space for rent or lease.
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Robert P. Wimmers
Industry Professional
Location: Dieren, The Netherlands Joined: 24 Nov 2008
Posts: 44
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Posted: Mon 04 May, 2009 4:05 am Post subject: |
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I would tend to avoid this sword all together and get some friendly local smith to make you a basis blade from some tool grade steel or a piece of leaf spring, so you can start with proper material to begin with. It only takes a smith an hour or two to rough forge a blade, so pay him the dollars instead of spending money on all kinds of features you will have to throw away, anyhow. You could also opt for stockremoval and do most of the grinding yourself. Like you said in your post, this has nothing to do with "Historical arms".
Last edited by Robert P. Wimmers on Mon 04 May, 2009 12:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Ron Reuter
Location: Southern Indiana Joined: 04 Oct 2007
Posts: 56
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