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Micheal B
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 Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 4:42 am Post subject: my first sword |
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hey guy's ok i need some big help here i just bought my first sword and the blade is loose dose any one know how to fix it
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Andreas Auer
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| Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 5:44 am Post subject: |
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hi!
a bit more Information would be nice...Maker, vendor, type maybe a foto would be nice...so we can figure your problem out...
Andreas
The secret is,
to keep that pointy end thingy away from you...
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I Sam
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| Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 11:48 am Post subject: |
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Failing further information, a'la Andeas' post, duct tape would seem to be in order. You know what they say: "If it moves and it shouldn’t, you need duct tape; if it doesn’t move and it should, you need WD40."
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Bill Sahigan
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| Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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go buy an albion?
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Tim May
Location: Annapolis, MD Joined: 12 Nov 2006
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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Micheal, I'd see if your sword has a peened pommel. If it does, it's quite easy to fix, follow Bjorn's guide on how to tighten it, which I've done many times with great success, even my low end Windlass rings like a tuning fork.
http://bjorn.foxtail.nu/swords.htm
If it's a screw on pommel, dissemble it and use weld tight epoxy on all its components in reassembly.
Good Luck!
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Zach Gordon
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| Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 6:03 pm Post subject: |
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I have to say, to many people put albion as the "best". Albions like all swords have their problems, if you want a really good sword go buy something really good like a Patrick Barta. Albions are decent but they are clearly machined the tangs are too hard, the fittings are cast, the epoxied leather is inaccurate etc.
Albions are decent swords but they are not the end all be all.
On top of that albions are too expensive for many many people.
As for your problem it really depends if it's a wall-hanger or of decent quality.
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JE Sarge
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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If your sword is made by a halfway decent manufacturer, then it should be an easy repair. There are plenty of 'how to' posts on here to fix common problems such as loose pommels, guards, grips, chipped blade edges, and more. If you could give us more information, such as the maker and model, it would help. Pictures would be better.
As for the 'go buy an Albion' comment - that's hardly a solution to this problem, I have a number of quality modern-replica swords and none of them are Albions. This is purely a matter of opinion and a quick search through the forums will show that Albion has the same exact QC problems that other manufacturers have. The only difference would be that instead of having a $ or $$ problem, you could have a $$$ problem.
Get some more information up and you will have alot of people interested in helping you.
J.E. Sarge
Crusader Monk Sword Scabbards and Customizations
www.crusadermonk.com
"But lack of documentation, especially for such early times, is not to be considered as evidence of non-existance." - Ewart Oakeshott
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Justin King
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Tue 09 Dec, 2008 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Zach Gordon wrote: |
Albions are decent but they are clearly machined the tangs are too hard, the fittings are cast, the epoxied leather is inaccurate etc. |
Is your comment on their tangs based on experience of a problem or failure of some sort?
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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Zach Gordon
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| Posted: Wed 10 Dec, 2008 10:27 am Post subject: |
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The tangs will over time get loose from movement and will even cut into the guard or pommel, or at least thats wat happened to my lechtenaur and to my hersir.
| Quote: | | Zach, when I saw Albion applying a grip wrap they used hide glue. Can you confirm for me that they use epoxy and show me where that's documented? |
here it is wat they sed on "how it's made"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTg0Oc0mQy4
they sed the grip was put on with epoxy which bugged me, maybe it isnt true, its just wat they sed
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J. Pav
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| Posted: Wed 10 Dec, 2008 10:42 am Post subject: |
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| Zach Gordon wrote: | The tangs will over time get loose from movement and will even cut into the guard or pommel, or at least thats wat happened to my lechtenaur and to my hersir.
| Quote: | | Zach, when I saw Albion applying a grip wrap they used hide glue. Can you confirm for me that they use epoxy and show me where that's documented? |
here it is wat they sed on "how it's made"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTg0Oc0mQy4
they sed the grip was put on with epoxy which bugged me, maybe it isnt true, its just wat they sed |
The wooden grip-core is applied with epoxy, which was done historically with other adhesives. Obviously, epoxy is simply a modern, more effective equivalent to the adhesives used in the past.
The leather is stated to be applied with "glue", not epoxy.
And as for your statement that not everyone can afford an Albion, the same can most certainly be said for Patrick Barta's work.
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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Bill Love
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| Posted: Wed 10 Dec, 2008 11:43 am Post subject: Loose Hilt |
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Micheal,
Getting back to your original question, there are two other things you can do to tighten up your sword's hilt regardless of manufacturer, and while both will work, there will be subtle differences in the results. JB Weld can be used if you can fit a plastic straw into the gaps between the blade and the cross-mix up the product and cut the straw in half for ease of handling, then scoop the JB Weld into the straw until it is 2 or so inches full. Clamp the sword blade up in a padded vise, stick the straw into the gap, and squeeze it between your fingers down to the end to fill the opening. Watch to see if it sinks, then fill in behind till it's full. Clean up with Gun Scrubber on a paper towel before it sets. This method will be rock solid and tight enough to make the blade sing when you pluck it. Another thing you can use, and probably the better way to go if most of the grip is already filled with epoxy, is white PVA bookmakers glue (also known as "Jade" glue or Elmer's on steroids) available at art suppliers or university art departments. Fill a pipette, like the ones Testor's makes for painting scale models, and squirt the glue into the gaps, waiting for it to fill the empty spaces and adding as necessary till the hilt is full. You may have to twist the blade side to side to help the glue run into the hilt. Clean up excess with water as you go so that it doesn't set up where it shouldn't. This method is easier to do and mop up after, but the tang will be slightly cushioned due to PVA's urethane-like flexibility and the blade may lose some of its "ring." Either way, the hilt will be permanently tight. Let the JB Weld set up for a couple of days and the PVA for at least a week.
"History is a set of lies agreed upon."
Napoleon Bonaparte
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Thu 11 Dec, 2008 6:53 am Post subject: |
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| Zach Gordon wrote: | The tangs will over time get loose from movement and will even cut into the guard or pommel, or at least thats wat happened to my lechtenaur and to my hersir.
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Zach,
You should contact Albion about fixing those issues for you. I haven't used my Albions for any heavy duty work (tree-clearing, steel barrels), but in light and medium cutting they have held up fine even when hitting a 2 x 6 plank I put pumpkins on for cutting.
Many swords do the same thing, though. Del Tins are notorious for that but can be re-peened. Atrim swords will often "settle in" (blade bites farther into the guard and things get loose), but can be fixed by re-tightening the nut. I've heard of A&A swords doing the same and needing a re-peen. Albion swords are put together more tightly and shouldn't suffer the same degree of issues. Plus, the way they finish them makes re-peening really difficult or impossible on some models.
But I think they'll stand behind their products and fix them for you, assuming you're willing to ship them to them.
What kind of use have yours been through?
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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This is a standard topic