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Owen Bush
Industry Professional
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 Posted: Sun 27 Apr, 2008 12:34 pm Post subject: My latest saxon blade two core patternwelded with edge wrap |
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Here is mt latest Viking/ saxon blade .I made it as a Demo Piece for my latest forge in two bar twisted core and piled steel edge.I will be showing it (along with stacks of seax blades) at a knife show in sweden next weekend and then at Knives Uk may the 18th
I would love to post some Url linked pictures from flicker but I must admit being at a loss as to how on earth to get them to show
Any Help would be Much apreciated
 Attachment: 48.44 KB
Attachment: 135.5 KB
Detail of tip [ Download ]
forging soul into steel .
www.owenbush.co.uk the home of bushfire forge school of smithing .
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Russ Thomas
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sun 27 Apr, 2008 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Owen,
That is really exquisite workmanship ! My favourite pattern too  Not much more to say, the picture speaks for itself. Stunning! How many layer laminate did you use for the core and the edge material , if I may ask ?
Beautiful worksmanship !
Regards,
Russ
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero !
http://www.living-history.no
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Owen Bush
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sun 27 Apr, 2008 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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Russ ,
The core is two bars each of 16 layers,the edge wrap is around 300 .Material is 15n20 and 1080 .
Thanks
Owen
forging soul into steel .
www.owenbush.co.uk the home of bushfire forge school of smithing .
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Jared Smith
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| Posted: Sun 27 Apr, 2008 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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That is something to be proud of! Would you mind sharing how you perform heat treat?
I hope to begin learning pattern welding soon. (The forge, anvil, and welding equipment is finally ready...I just need tongs, a fullering die/hammer, and a few tools as budget permits.) I am curious if you have tried "band saw" blade scraps (supposedly similar to L6.) I need advise on combinations that would be easier (L6 + 1084?) to heat treat, and am guessing that the high nickel you used on this piece would be tricky to weld and heat treat. The nickel has nice contrast though!
Absence of evidence is not necessarily evidence of absence!
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Allen Andrews
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| Posted: Sun 27 Apr, 2008 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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That's a great looking blade, some other eally nice looking stuff on your site as well. Well done.
" I would not snare even an orc with a falsehood. "
Faramir son of Denethor
Words to live by. (Yes, I know he's not a real person)
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Owen Bush
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Mon 28 Apr, 2008 1:26 am Post subject: |
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| Jared Smith wrote: | That is something to be proud of! Would you mind sharing how you perform heat treat?
I hope to begin learning pattern welding soon. (The forge, anvil, and welding equipment is finally ready...I just need tongs, a fullering die/hammer, and a few tools as budget permits.) I am curious if you have tried "band saw" blade scraps (supposedly similar to L6.) I need advise on combinations that would be easier (L6 + 1084?) to heat treat, and am guessing that the high nickel you used on this piece would be tricky to weld and heat treat. The nickel has nice contrast though! |
Jarod, The 15n20 is bandsaw steel I buy untoothed steel from udderholm sweden so is the 1080 (again new) they are a very complimentry mix behaving in a similar way in theheat treat and they dont mind being twisted .
I heat treat in a Fogg furnace ,performing 3 normalisations(decending) then quenching into Heated oil ,and tempered 3 times in a sword tempering oven I have made ,Hope that helps .
thanks Owen
forging soul into steel .
www.owenbush.co.uk the home of bushfire forge school of smithing .
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Dustin R. Reagan
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| Posted: Mon 28 Apr, 2008 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Owen Bush wrote: | | Jared Smith wrote: | That is something to be proud of! Would you mind sharing how you perform heat treat?
I hope to begin learning pattern welding soon. (The forge, anvil, and welding equipment is finally ready...I just need tongs, a fullering die/hammer, and a few tools as budget permits.) I am curious if you have tried "band saw" blade scraps (supposedly similar to L6.) I need advise on combinations that would be easier (L6 + 1084?) to heat treat, and am guessing that the high nickel you used on this piece would be tricky to weld and heat treat. The nickel has nice contrast though! |
Jarod, The 15n20 is bandsaw steel I buy untoothed steel from udderholm sweden so is the 1080 (again new) they are a very complimentry mix behaving in a similar way in theheat treat and they dont mind being twisted .
I heat treat in a Fogg furnace ,performing 3 normalisations(decending) then quenching into Heated oil ,and tempered 3 times in a sword tempering oven I have made ,Hope that helps .
thanks Owen |
Hi Owen,
I'm really curious... How do you do your fullers? Do you forge them in with a top/bottom fuller, do you grind them in, or do you have some sort of fullering die?
Any advice on how to add fullers to a blade?
Much appreciated.
Dustin
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Jared Smith
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| Posted: Mon 28 Apr, 2008 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you very much for sharing your experience Owen. It sounds like you do a 1st class heat treat. I am debating making a salt bath brick oven out in the back yard (next year.)
I feel guilty for not taking one of your classes, but the cost of the ticket and time would actually set me back several months on getting started trial and error style! I am delighted to hear that you made some of your own heat treat equipment, and are happy with it. I have some broken band saw blade stock already, and figure I will try it with some 1080 series material.
Absence of evidence is not necessarily evidence of absence!
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Owen Bush
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Mon 28 Apr, 2008 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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Jared,
I would be very carefull with Ht salts especially ones stored out side .They need to be moisture free or can be a little volcano .They are on my list of stuff to build but I have yet to see some in use and am reluctant to comit to them without seeing the dangers/benifits myself .
Do not assume that your second hand band saw blades are 15n20 or L6 they could be any number of things (all good blade steel mind) I would weld up a test billet with a known steel and etch for contrast ,or if you have a large amount of the stuff send a sample off for a chem analysis.
forging soul into steel .
www.owenbush.co.uk the home of bushfire forge school of smithing .
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Owen Bush
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Tue 29 Apr, 2008 12:10 am Post subject: |
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Hi Owen,
I'm really curious... How do you do your fullers? Do you forge them in with a top/bottom fuller, do you grind them in, or do you have some sort of fullering die?
Any advice on how to add fullers to a blade?
Much appreciated.
Dustin[/quote]
Dustin,
I Grind my fullers in Post HT ,In my experience this helps to reduce warping and I wanted to expose the X's in the core pattern and that requires grinding into the billet .
Fullers can be forged and scraped too, where you see chevron pattern in a blade core the blade has been forged to a close to finished shape .
forging soul into steel .
www.owenbush.co.uk the home of bushfire forge school of smithing .
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