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Piotr Mowczko
Location: U.K. Joined: 06 Apr 2007
Posts: 2
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Posted: Wed 25 Apr, 2007 4:59 am Post subject: Medieval wood conservation |
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Hi
I'm looking for some information about conservation of wood in medieval times.
Right now I'm using linen oil and wax, but I will be more than happy to learn something new.
If someone could give me some advice/ information, I will really appreciate it.
Thanks
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Risto Rautiainen
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Posted: Wed 25 Apr, 2007 5:36 am Post subject: |
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I'm not sure it's really medieval but the use of pine tar was very wide spread in Finland in the 19th century and the first records of distilling tar are from the 17th century. It was exported a lot for a while. Next what comes to mind is simply the use of any animal grease. That method has been around for a while.
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Russ Ellis
Industry Professional
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Posted: Wed 25 Apr, 2007 6:41 am Post subject: |
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Just to clarify are you looking for medieval methods of wood preservation or are you looking for ways to stabalize medieval wood in the present day?
TRITONWORKS Custom Scabbards
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Eric Myers
Location: Sacramento, CA Joined: 23 Aug 2003
Posts: 214
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Posted: Wed 25 Apr, 2007 6:56 am Post subject: |
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Or are you asking about finishes applied to wooden objects such as furniture? Lots of wood was left unfinished, some was painted, and I have seen claims that beeswax may have been used.
Eric Myers
Sacramento Sword School
ViaHup.com - Wiki di Scherma Italiana
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Glen A Cleeton
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Posted: Wed 25 Apr, 2007 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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There may be something buried in here. I have stumbled on some interesting exchanges. The archive is searchable. Many conservators going back and forth.
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/byform/mailing-lists/cdl/
A government site on contemporary methods. There are more like this.
http://w3.gsa.gov/web/p/hptp.nsf/
I'm seeing some good hits via Google for historic woodworking sites. From tooling to finishes.
There is a lot of wooden structure and machinery still around from the middle ages. I imagine a lot has to do with wood type and climate but they must also have had some use for preservatives.
Cheers
GC
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Jared Smith
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Posted: Wed 25 Apr, 2007 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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One place to start might be linseed oil. It was produced and used for a variety of purposes (paints, etc.), and is still chosen by modern curators for some challenging projects such as preserving medieval ship wrecks recovered from oceans.
Absence of evidence is not necessarily evidence of absence!
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Travis Canaday
Location: Overland Park, Kansas Joined: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 147
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Posted: Thu 26 Apr, 2007 12:12 am Post subject: |
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Just a tip...
If you want pure linseed oil, without petroleum distillates, get some flax seed oil from a health food store.
Travis
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Piotr Mowczko
Location: U.K. Joined: 06 Apr 2007
Posts: 2
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Posted: Fri 27 Apr, 2007 3:52 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replays guys.
I know about a tar, Risto. The deferens is, that in my country, Poland, we are using birch not pine. It's called "Dziegiec".
I think that I was not specific enough. Sorry for that.
Let me explain.
Right now I'm working on a Ballock dagger handle. I was always using linseed oil and beeswax to conserve it. But after that the handle wasn't so shiny, It was little bit dull.
This time i wont to have a smooth, and very shiny handle, but it have to be historical as well.
If You can help me with that I will really appreciate it.
http://www.bractwoczocha.pl
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Greyson Brown
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Posted: Fri 27 Apr, 2007 9:31 am Post subject: |
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Piotr Mowczko wrote: | Right now I'm working on a Ballock dagger handle. I was always using linseed oil and beeswax to conserve it. But after that the handle wasn't so shiny, It was little bit dull.
This time i wont to have a smooth, and very shiny handle, but it have to be historical as well.
If You can help me with that I will really appreciate it. |
Linseed oil is used by itself all the time in order to condition and preserve gun stocks, so you should not have to use the wax. That might help avoid picking up dust and other oils that will dull the finish. Also, keep rubbing the handle with a clean dry cloth as the linseed oil dries. That will help the wood absorb the oil and create a nice even finish. If it is still a little dull, it might not hurt to sand it down a little and apply another coat of linseed oil. I think I used about six coats on my rifle stock (it has been almost a decade, so I don't remember for certain), and it came out very nice in the end.
I hope that is some help.
-Grey
"So long as I can keep the path of honor I am well content."
-Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, The White Company
Last edited by Greyson Brown on Fri 27 Apr, 2007 10:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Russ Ellis
Industry Professional
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Posted: Fri 27 Apr, 2007 11:29 am Post subject: |
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I think the key probably is polishing prior to applying the perservative rather than depending on the preservative to provide the luster.
TRITONWORKS Custom Scabbards
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Jeroen Zuiderwijk
Industry Professional
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Posted: Fri 27 Apr, 2007 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, a polish makes all the difference. I personally use this:
It's the most timesaving thing I have. It gives instant mirror finishes on anything, whether it's metal, wood, horn etc. Just make sure to use a different polishing bit on wood then on metal or it will stain the wood. Also don't press too hard, or the wood (or horn etc.) burns.
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Jeroen Zuiderwijk
Industry Professional
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Posted: Fri 27 Apr, 2007 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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B.t.w. does anyone know how far the use lacquer (resin based) goes back in Europe? I know it's used in asia since ancient times, but I have absolutely no idea when it was introduced here.
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Bram Verbeek
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Posted: Sat 28 Apr, 2007 12:10 am Post subject: |
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quite late, I know for instance that dutch boats were still made durable with line oil and "harpuis" until approx 1900, and the design isn't all that old
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Carl Huffman
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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Pine tar has been used as a wood preservative since the days of the vikings. Equal parts Beeswax, boiled linseed oil and pine tar (melt together in a double boiler, no open flames) is another old recipe.
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Alex K
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Posted: Thu 03 May, 2007 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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Jeroen Zuiderwijk wrote: | Yep, a polish makes all the difference. I personally use this:
It's the most timesaving thing I have. It gives instant mirror finishes on anything, whether it's metal, wood, horn etc. Just make sure to use a different polishing bit on wood then on metal or it will stain the wood. Also don't press too hard, or the wood (or horn etc.) burns. |
What is it?
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Jeroen Zuiderwijk
Industry Professional
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Posted: Fri 04 May, 2007 2:11 am Post subject: |
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Alex K wrote: | Jeroen Zuiderwijk wrote: | Yep, a polish makes all the difference. I personally use this:
It's the most timesaving thing I have. It gives instant mirror finishes on anything, whether it's metal, wood, horn etc. Just make sure to use a different polishing bit on wood then on metal or it will stain the wood. Also don't press too hard, or the wood (or horn etc.) burns. |
What is it? | I don't know the exact name (I just refer to it as "green stuff"), but it's a kind of polishing paste, probably a sort of wax, mixed with a very fine abrasive mixed in. You hold the turning polishing bit (or polishing wheel for a drill f.e. for larger pieces) against it and you can start polishing your work piece. It's available at DIY stores. I usually finish my piece with 800 grit sandpaper, then go for the green stuff. Any scratches left by the 800 grit sandpaper will be invisible due to the extreme shine you'll get.
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