Here is my Museum Replicas’ Arbedo with a reformed and rewrapped grip, and browned Cross and Pommel.

Measurements and Specifications

Weight: 2 pounds 13 ounces
Overall Length: 39.75 inches
Blade Length: 31 inches
Fullers: None
Guard Width: 8.25 inches
Grip and Pommel Length: 8.25 inches
Grip Length: 6 inches
Point of Balance: 3.25 inches from guard
Center of Percussion: 18 inches from guard

The Arbedo Sword is Museum Replicas’ attempt to replicate a beautiful hand-and-a-half sword (c. 1350-1400) in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Based upon the few pictures I have seen and the one blade measurement in Oakeshott (31 inches), the MRL’s Arbedo Sword seems to be a fair replica. The blade geometry is slightly different, especially at the tip. However, the pommel and grip is where most of the differences can be found. The replica’s pommel seems to be significantly thinner. The shape of the grip is also different. The original has a ridge running down the center of the grip that continues the median line of the blade.

My Arbedo has a tight and solid feel to it. The fit and finish is well done, with no large gaps, pitting or scratches. It has a very flexible, well-tempered blade with the typical MRL grinding (or forging) ripples on the blade surface—maybe a bit more pronounced that normal. One of these depressions is larger and somewhat noticeable near the ridge-line of the blade. These irregularities can only be seen in an oblique view down the blades length. And, as this sword was a Christmas gift from my wife, it would take much more than this to tempt me to send it back.

The Arbedo Sword is easy to control. The point of Balance is rather close to the hand and the counter-weight of the pommel and extra grip makes the sword feel much lighter than the scales would indicate. Yet the sword has enough blade presence (barely) to track well.

With five children in my house, all my swords are blunts. So I have no idea how the sword would cut. I suspect that the sacrifice of weight in the blade (making it easy to place the cut) would reduce the force of the cut. The same could be said for thrusting. The point would go where you wanted but the relatively thin flexible blade would not have the rigidity to penetrate very easily. A little less distal taper and a more prominent central spine would make this replica a better weapon. In fact it would be the blade as appears on the original.

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The Original in the Met
MRL Arbedo Replica
My Arbedo "Redo"

More Arbedo Redo Hilt Pics...

Very nice job Kirk, thanks for sharing.

Aging these MRL swords really seems to be a viable way to make something interesting out of a rather ho-hum product.

Hi Patrick

I don't think you meant it that way, but that comes off a bit harsh.......

Personally, I don't think of MS as ho-hum, I think of it as entry level, and the economy lineup.....

It seems that this year, we've seen a few of the more experienced collectors acquire an MS and like it enough to hang onto it for a while. The Scottish Backsword comes to mind.

Personally, I started with a WS sword years ago. The blade has been reground, rehilted, etc, about like what one would expect from someone that eventually winds up making swords.....

Some of my early collection was MS stuff, but of course in those days the production world didn't have that much selection, and the custom makers weren't well known.....

Today, with the economy the way it is, MS offers a viable alternative. Folks with kids in school, folks that have been laid off, folks that are under or unemployed can't really afford the "nicer" swords, but might be able to take a flyer on an MS sword. As time goes on, if they get really involved in this interest, they likely will sell, trade, or whatever, to acquire the more expensive swords..... and on and on, just like some collectors I could name today that started with less expensive stuff years ago.....

I also believe that working and experimenting on these less expensive products tends to bring out the more creative in some of us, and that the next gen of scabbard makers, handle wrappers, and blade and sword makers are likely to have some experience with these cheaper swords.........

Auld Dawg

Don't presume to interperate my words Gus. It sounds exactly as it was meant.

I've owned several of them myself, so I should know whereof I speak. I think Kirk did an excellent job of jazzing up a lower-end product. That's not a personal attack on Kirk or his purchasing power, it's a simple statement of the facts as I see them. I think anyone else will be able to see that as a compliment.

Just so that everyone is clear as to where I stand on MRL products, I would *strongly* suggest that everyone read this review: http://www.myArmoury.com/review_mrl_alb.html

Kirk,

Could you tell us the proccess you used in aging this sword? We've now seen several projects like this, and it's a very interesting look.

That looks absolutely fantastic. Thanks, in particular, for sharing photos of the original reproduction along with the antique and your own version. Can you please include more info on the process you used for the aging process and re-gripping? I think a lot of people could benefit from this!

Thanks again Kirk.

Mustard? Apparently a vinegar and salt solution can also be used to good effect, although that seems to provide a bit of a corrosive effect. I like the aged look of the whole piece.

What about the grip? It really looks like you did a lot of work in that area.

Looks great! Having gone the faux-antique route a couple of times now, I have to know–How did you strip off the lacquer? I sand it off with good results but that's time consuming and probably not great for the mucous membranes. I found lacquer thinner and even Citrustrip to make hardly a dent in the stuff. There must be an easier way, but I haven't yet figured it out....

Good work! Great tips. Makes me wish I had more time on my hands...

Greetings All, This is my first post on this site which I have already learned a whole lot.
Kirk , Beautiful job on the Arbedo sword. I have steadily been drawn to that one. From what you have said, it may be a worthwhile purchase. :idea:
Sean Flynt, As far as stripping protective coatings go, I have found straight MEK (methly ethly ketone) works very well on Del Tins. The MRL coatings are resistant even to this which as far as I know will eat just about anything. It work fairly well with OOOO steel wool. Just keep it wet and add the elbow grease. Please exercise great care with the MEK though. It is highly flammable. Lots of open air and no smoking are recommended. So are gloves. :eek: It will work though. Sincerely, Patrick Fitzmartin

Greetings Kirk, Sorry for the late reply. Thank you for the welcome. At least least your brave enough to show off your work which you have have every right to. A job well done. I do some work myself but I have that "Its not good enough yet" thing going so I don't post pics. There is a definite sense of satisfaction in this hobby though. :D Sincerely, Patrick Fitzmartin

Welcome to myArmoury Patrick!

From one Patrick to another :D

Kirk,

Thanks for sharing. Made for a good read.

Greetings Patrick Kelly, Thank you for the welcome sir. I like this place. ;) Sincerely, Patrick Fitzmartin