If you have been in correspondence with us via email and are anticipating a response please email us a copy of the last exchange we had. This weekend we suffered a server failure and as of this moment our email is down from our end but should still be receiving emails and storing them. We are unsure if the email records we had will be recoverable so will probably have to reconstruct where we were with each estimate. We apologize for any inconvenience and no confirmed orders were affected. If you need to reach us asap PM me here is probably the quickest at the moment or call me at 800 745 7345.
Best
Craig Johnson
Prod Manager
A&A Inc.
Craig Johnson wrote: |
If you have been in correspondence with us via email and are anticipating a response please email us a copy of the last exchange we had. This weekend we suffered a server failure and as of this moment our email is down from our end but should still be receiving emails and storing them. We are unsure if the email records we had will be recoverable so will probably have to reconstruct where we were with each estimate. We apologize for any inconvenience and no confirmed orders were affected. If you need to reach us asap PM me here is probably the quickest at the moment or call me at 800 745 7345.
Best Craig Johnson Prod Manager A&A Inc. |
So noted by me. Good luck getting that system back up!
Thanks Shawn
Well we have email working again but it does not look good for recovery of what was there.
If anyone has questions or concerns aa@armor.com is working.
Regards
Craig
Well we have email working again but it does not look good for recovery of what was there.
If anyone has questions or concerns aa@armor.com is working.
Regards
Craig
Craig Johnson wrote: |
Thanks Shawn
Well we have email working again but it does not look good for recovery of what was there. If anyone has questions or concerns aa@armor.com is working. Regards Craig |
No problem, Craig.
Should those of us who have orders with you re-send our e-mail addies so you can add them to your database again?
I should have most order email addys on hard copy. But probably not all. If anyone knows I had your email address in my data, ie we had email going back and forth :) it would be nice to get a copy of the last email exchange we had or at least your address to rebuild what I can. Thanks all for your understanding.
Best
Craig
PS Always Backup your DATA
:wtf:
Best
Craig
PS Always Backup your DATA
:wtf:
Hey Craig,
My e-mail was probably among those lost; since I had a question that others might be interested in, I figured I'd post it here (apologies for being completely off the topic of this post!):
I've put some tiny scratches on the blade of your Sparth axe, the result of cleaning with a scotch-brite pad. They catch the light, and are moderately annoying.
What can I use to polish them out, and leave an even finish?
Thanks
My e-mail was probably among those lost; since I had a question that others might be interested in, I figured I'd post it here (apologies for being completely off the topic of this post!):
I've put some tiny scratches on the blade of your Sparth axe, the result of cleaning with a scotch-brite pad. They catch the light, and are moderately annoying.
What can I use to polish them out, and leave an even finish?
Thanks
Ahh I remember the question but could not remember who had asked it :D
Did the scotchbrite pad put the scratches in the surface? If so what grade was it? The grey ones are the equivalent of 0000 steel wool and should leave a surface much as it arrived from us. If the scratches are from this grade of pad it maybe necessary to go a step or two back in the process and finish the area over again. Though the grey pads should not really be aggressive enough to do this.
One could go back as far as a lite finish sand paper and work back to the satin finish. Or if you have a bench grinder one could get a fine or very fine wire wheel and work that across the surface but this can be tricky with edged items.
Let me know if this helps and if not we will figure it out.
Sorry for the inconvenience of losing the email.
Best
Craig
Did the scotchbrite pad put the scratches in the surface? If so what grade was it? The grey ones are the equivalent of 0000 steel wool and should leave a surface much as it arrived from us. If the scratches are from this grade of pad it maybe necessary to go a step or two back in the process and finish the area over again. Though the grey pads should not really be aggressive enough to do this.
One could go back as far as a lite finish sand paper and work back to the satin finish. Or if you have a bench grinder one could get a fine or very fine wire wheel and work that across the surface but this can be tricky with edged items.
Let me know if this helps and if not we will figure it out.
Sorry for the inconvenience of losing the email.
Best
Craig
Craig Johnson wrote: |
Ahh I remember the question but could not remember who had asked it :D
Did the scotchbrite pad put the scratches in the surface? If so what grade was it? The grey ones are the equivalent of 0000 steel wool and should leave a surface much as it arrived from us. If the scratches are from this grade of pad it maybe necessary to go a step or two back in the process and finish the area over again. Though the grey pads should not really be aggressive enough to do this. One could go back as far as a lite finish sand paper and work back to the satin finish. Or if you have a bench grinder one could get a fine or very fine wire wheel and work that across the surface but this can be tricky with edged items. Let me know if this helps and if not we will figure it out. Sorry for the inconvenience of losing the email. Best Craig |
No problem.. It was a green scotch-brite pad that stratched the blade -- pretty coarse. I actually have some 0000 steel wool pads around here, but those didn't do anything for the scratches. I thought I might need sand paper to remove the scratches, but haven't the faintest idea how to progress from sand paper back to the normal finish.
For that matter, I wouldn't mind if the finish ended up brighter from the sand paper -- just as long as it's even, without those irritating little teeny scratches. :wtf:
Thanks!
Mornin Joe
You should be able to reduce the scratches and eliminate them by working through several steps of grit changes. I would first try using the steps of scotchbrite pad. Start with the one a step finer than green and work your way to grey. Always work in one direction as rotational motions will have a way of highlighting any differences. If you need to go to sand paper I would probably start with 120 or finer and see how that works. One can always go rougher but once you use a rough grit you have to step all they way through to get an even finish. If you need moral support give me a call ;)
A side -not on historical items. The finish you often see on blades, especially axes like this and weapons not meant for the high end of the market would often be finished bright but one could easily see the heavy scratches still in the surface from wheel grinding some of these often quite deep in a polished surface. It is one of the areas were toady we have a different idea of what is an acceptable level of finish on these items. ( side note to my side note-- I am not saying that all items were finished this way in period just that many were and it all comes down to "you get what you pay, or in this case, paid for")
let me know if you need more info Joe.
Craig
You should be able to reduce the scratches and eliminate them by working through several steps of grit changes. I would first try using the steps of scotchbrite pad. Start with the one a step finer than green and work your way to grey. Always work in one direction as rotational motions will have a way of highlighting any differences. If you need to go to sand paper I would probably start with 120 or finer and see how that works. One can always go rougher but once you use a rough grit you have to step all they way through to get an even finish. If you need moral support give me a call ;)
A side -not on historical items. The finish you often see on blades, especially axes like this and weapons not meant for the high end of the market would often be finished bright but one could easily see the heavy scratches still in the surface from wheel grinding some of these often quite deep in a polished surface. It is one of the areas were toady we have a different idea of what is an acceptable level of finish on these items. ( side note to my side note-- I am not saying that all items were finished this way in period just that many were and it all comes down to "you get what you pay, or in this case, paid for")
let me know if you need more info Joe.
Craig
Thanks Craig! I will get the range of scotch-brite pads and work on it.
Interesting note about period weapons; I've often thought that the ones coming out of your shop would look quite good compared to most of them...
Interesting note about period weapons; I've often thought that the ones coming out of your shop would look quite good compared to most of them...
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