I have had my eye on the Danish War Axe for quite some time, and seeing the very nice picture of Patrick Kelly with his Danish War Axe made me want it all the more. I don't know if it arrives Friday or Monday, but I can hardly wait to get my grubby paws on it! I have handled it in the past at the Faire up at the IL / WI border and loved the feel of it, almost bought it this past summer. One thing for sure, I have definitely got the "collectors bug", I am sure most can identify with this.

Sorry, but I bought the last one currently in stock, seeing Patrick with his made it irresistable for me to refrain any longer from buying it now, that and learning it was the last one in stock. But I promise, I will have a lot of fun with it!

Happy Collecting

Bob

You'll like it Bob. I don't know anyone who has one and doesn't. I've had my eye on that one for years but never picked it up. Other things always took precedence. I finally decided it's what I needed for the finishing touch on my Anglo-Norman kit.

The best thing is that I haven't hit the ceiling with it yet. :D

I'll second that. Mine came in two weeks ago and I'm very pleased with it! It's very simple yet nicely done. The thing that surprised me most was how maneuverable it was when compared to a standard wood cutting axe. They aren't the same sort of beast at all...

Bob, Patrick, & Russ


Have any of you--or anyone else--settled on an effective methodolgy of use for the Danish axe? I'm comfortable using it simply as a polearm, but, in that case, there would seem better alternatives. In the role of battle axe, the haft is simply too long for me to be able to wield it in what I assume would make the most efficient use of the axe's cutting power. The only alternative apparent to me is using the axe in large, sweeping blows (which would seem offensively impressive, though I haven't tried decapitating any horses)...but I shy away from this notion in preference for a melding of polearm and axe from both a defensive sense and from consideration of some sort of formational usage. Too short for a really good polearm, while being too long for a really good axe. What am I doing wrong, what aspect to using the Danish axe am I overlooking? Am I not giving sufficient emphasis to the "axe" usage in "Danish Axe"?

As an aside, I've considered cutting about six inches off the haft. The axe is certainly light enough to make the transition.




Michael

Michael I go the opposite direction, preferring about a 5' haft and swinging it essentially like an axe but with the back muscles doing more work at extention and the shoulders a little less. It's pretty quick this way even with a three pound head and and sliding your lead hand back towards the head greatly facilitates recovery. In formation fighting I think its more of rock/paper/scissors thing with the axe men breaking any stalemates.

Well the axe is due here on Monday, I do plan on playing around with it in a quest to discover it's versatility. Off hand, I'd say it could also be used with the dominant hand clutching the haft adjacent to the blade with the other hand 2/3 the way up, thereby utilizing the haft as a "bo" and the blade for close in slashing motions, this grip should easily transform into the main grip of useage to execute hacking strikes. I am drawing on my past martial arts education here, though not axes and swords, I have been educated in the use of many weapons and items that you would never consider to be a weapon, such as the deadly pencil or ball point pen. LOL. The one weapon that I achieved expert level with is the nunchuku, single or doubles.
However, I am NOT a "know it all", which is why I have invested in some 20 books on medieval weaponry etc. I am here learning from you as I am only a novice in this area. But I do have the ability as a result of extensive education in the martial arts to be able to analyze a weapon and what would be the common sense use and form for that weapon.

Such as the German Bastard Sword and English Longsword that I have from Arms & Armor. While my books were on order (2 of which were Christian Tobler's books) I practiced what I thought would be common sense stances and strikes from those stances. I was a bit surprised to learn upon receiving the books that I had in fact been practicing several of the foundation stances and strikes of these swords.

Please do not missunderstand me, I am here to learn, not to teach what I think I know. I am a novice in this area and I have a lot to learn, and I am very open to criticism and guidance.

Felt this necessary to be said, because I do not want people thinking that because I have a black belt that I am a self appointed sword expert too. I am a beginner. Remember, a real warrior knows his strengths and his limitations, he knows his place in the order of things, he is aware of his surroundings and the reality thereof, he makes it his business to know the strength and the weakness of his enemy and never does he underestimate or disrespect his prowess!

Happy Collecting,

Bob

I've always had an interest in this weapon and I'd like to have a chance to work with it more. Unfortunately I haven't really had the opportunity to spend any time with it yet. Hopefully that will change before the snow starts to fly. Right now I'm trying to get my hauberk finished before the aforementioned precipitation. :D

In the short time that I've spent handling this weapon I have started to form a few opinions on it. In spite of it's intimidating size and appearance I think this was something of a specialized weapon best used in a limited set of tactical applications. I see it more as part of a system rather than a stand-alone weapon. (as most weapons are)

It has been suggested by others that the Dane Axe user was probably supported by shield bearers since his defensive abilities with the axe are pretty limited. I think I agree with this opinion. I really don't see this as a weapon a warrior would have chosen for single combat, but may have worked well within the limited environment of a shield wall where the wariors could support one another. (the preferred tactic by the users of this weapon in it's heyday)

I have found that powerful downward strokes are possible with little effort, at least against a tree stump in the back yard. By grasping the bottom end of the haft with my left hand and grasping the haft high up with the right I can deliver pretty hard strikes by using the left hand as a pivot point and sliding the right hand toward the left while making a downward strike. (if that run-on sentence makes any sense) essentially using the left hand as a fulcrum and utilizing the right for power, movements are easily achieved both diagonally from left and right, as well as downward. I doubt if swinging this thing side to side in a shield wall would have been a regular occurrence.

So as I said, I see this as more of a specialized tool for specialized circumstances rather than a general purpose weapon. This is however just idle speculation.

Michael,

I have been spending time working with sword and shield while wearing my 11th century kit. While this doesn't really effect mobility it doesn't alter your balance to a large enough degree that it takes some getting used to, and a bit of adaption as well. I'd bet the same can be said for using this axe. We'll see.

Being the PC nimbnull that I am, I have yet to figure out how to do that "quote" thingy. So I will past and stick Patrick's quote here:

Patrick Kelly wrote:

It has been suggested by others that the Dane Axe user was probably supported by shield bearers since his defensive abilities with the axe are pretty limited. I think I agree with this opinion. I really don't see this as a weapon a warrior would have chosen for single combat, but may have worked well within the limited environment of a shield wall where the wariors could support one another. (the preferred tactic by the users of this weapon in it's heyday)

Thanks Patrick, this is something I had not considered and a good example of the fact that I indeed do have a LOT to learn. What you say here makes perfect sense when I think about it and no doubt you are probably right. Believe me I appreciate everyone to no end for sharing their knowledge with me. Like I said in my second email of this listing, about the only thing I can contribute at this point is a speculation of considerations as I have no knowledge in this area to draw one. But this has a plus, in that I am in a period of our common interest to which everything is a learning situation and therefore I am constantly enlightened, fascinated and intrigued. I know a few things, for example "slipping the handle" or the motion Patrick mentioned in using the less favored hand as the folcrum. Which sounds much like the "seesaw" of the hand motion when slicing with a sword. For instance an overhead strike with a bastard sword or two hander, right hand at the quillon, left at the pommel, as the arms descend in the striking motion the right hand pushes down as the left hand pulls up, thereby exponentially increasing the power of the strike.

The Dane Axe being used as a power impact weapon by a warrior surrounded with sword and shield warriors to aid his defense is a very interesting and common sense tactic.

Thanks again Patrick for the insight here.


Happy Collecting,

Bob

I'll have to agree with Colin Richards on the use of the dane axe...use it as a spear. Long strokes may work if you are in a formation, but if you are on your own, start hooking and stabbing. Overcommitting is dangerous....

Johan Schubert Moen

The haft end can move very fast , the head is slower and more sluggish, the haft might be used to block or parry or for a fast reverse blow.

With one hand near the head and the other widely spaced movement can be very fast and sliding the hand from close of the head to mid haft for heavy committed blows.

At least this seems possible from just playing with my really heavy Albion Danish axe probably much less agile that the A & A Danish axe. ( Closer to real weight and construction of the real thing. )

All the other hooking, slicing, stabbing mentioned seemed also plausible.

The Sparth axe would have a longer blade to more effectively stab with and a Bardiche would be in the same family.

Michael,

I have to agree on going to five feet - longer, not shorter. My experience is limited, but here's what my bruises have taught me so far: I grip the axe with my power hand (usually my left hand, but it's important to be flexible here)just above the butt, and my control hand 18 to 24 inches forward from the butt. Now I have a four foot axe. If my hands are 24 inches apart that leaves two feet of axe to reach with, and no shield to hide behind. Against an opponent with a three foot sword on a two plus foot arm, you'd better believe you're in trouble. Go longer, not shorter, its called a longaxe for good reason. ;)

The way I have been taught to use it, the control hand steers (duh), but is really just the fulcrum and the rear, or power hand pulls up to generate the strike. the classic attack is to go after the opponent's weapon hand at a down and out angle, then redirect into the shoulder/neck/head. Of course a competent swordsman will know this and try to counter, so standing behind shield men is probably the right approach. Also of great import is to have a seax ready so that when you get tangled up close or when someone grabs your haft (and they will) you can keep right on hacking. :cool:

Anyhow, I've been debating over this axe, and a skeggox from Manning Imperial, but I dont know if they match the quality of A&A. I do wish it had a five foot haft, do you think A&A would ship it longer on request? Anyhow, congrats on what looks to be a great acquisition!