Hi everybody,

I have poured through the forums on sharpening (thanks for to everybody who made these posts - they were very helpful...especially the video recommendations), and two things that I couldn't find an answer to was a recommendation for which grits of whetstone and if there are recommendations for specific whetstones (brands) when it comes to sharpening European medieval edged weaponry (reproductions, of course). Are there any?

It seems to me that 1000 grit is basically considered all purpose in the sense that you can sharpen pretty much anything with it and not need anything else. But, if something is particularly damaged, a lower grit (400?) is needed to create a new edge. I don't think I'd ever be in that position. But for finishing, to make the edge blend, it seems like often 1000 stones come with a 6000 side for that purpose. I have also seen a lot of kits that come with 400/1000 and 3000/8000 but I'm just not sure that's really going to be necessary...I don't think I'll be in a position to have to need 400 and 3000 and 8000 seems like it might just be more trouble than its worth (to go from 1000 to 3000 to 8000...) Wouldn't 1000 to 6000 be good enough unless I wanted to be obsessive (which I don't)?

Thank you very much.

Dan,
You'll probably find some disagreement on this topic. :) First, as you might have seen in this thread, I picked up a powered system and have used it to sharpen a bunch of things. However, I'm hardly an expert. I like this system, though, because I can choose the edge angle in a repeatable way and I can get the edge as fine (or not) as I want. It also leaves a convex edge more like what many makers put on to start with and many modern makers use some version of a belt grinder anyway. By changing the location of one of the pulley wheels, I can get a fairly flat grind for kitchen knives, making it pretty versatile.

Among many (many) other factors, of course, sharpness is often talked about relative to two main things: edge angle and how polished the edge is. On my setup, I followed the manufacturer's instructions for a toothy edge on the sword and daggers I've sharpened, like what a good all-purpose EDC outdoor knife would have (not as highly polished/fine as a filet knife or razor). This meant I used a belt equivalent to 220 for initial shaping and one equivalent to 1000 for honing. Folks like Matt Easton advocate for a toothy edge based on some period sources and their experience and I respect that and tried to follow it for mine. For a nicer skinning knife that is more a showpiece than a workpiece, I used all the belts that came with it (220, 1000, 3000, 12000) plus a leather strop belt/compound from a 3rd party that fits the machine for a really fine, mirror polished and scary sharp edge. Overkill for a sword, but neat on that knife.

For the edge angle, I went with a fairly inoffensive 22.5 degrees per side, which is what 'net sources often bandy about for Albions (even though some are sharpened to a shallower edge angle according to Peter Johnsson). You'll need to decide on an edge angle you like/want or just try to follow what's there if it just needs a touchup. I think much past 1000 grit may be too fine for a medieval style sword, but that's just my opinion.

Stones can be great, I just don't have a lot of experience with them. I like that I can be pretty consistent with the edge angle on my setup if I can just hold the plane of the cutting edges parallel to the tabletop. :) Have fun and good luck!

Thanks Chad. I did see that thread. I appreciate the input. I think the idea of a powertool scares the hell out of me. But I have noticed a few people online talk about that very one you mention in the other thread (or maybe a similar one). It seems to me that those who make the items seem to favor stones, while just some of those who just own them seem to go with a powertool. I wonder though, if you're afraid of messing things up, like I am, if there isn't an argument to be made on both sides. A stone is hard to use, and with a machine you can set the angle...but a stone takes longer and so the damage of you doing something wrong will be less severe. I do say there is something very appealing about both as well. Time/consistency (although I guess if you're good on the stone consistency isn't really a distinct advantage) for the machine, while something very satisfying in taking your time and doing it the old way (although I guess many historical swords were sharpened on a wheel grinder...so maybe a stone is a bit more of a romantic thing?).

I do like Matt Easton's videos and I think I'd trust him to re-sharpness. I guess 1000 is the way to go? That would be good enough for anything with a martial purpose? I notice there are some 400/1000 combos that would maybe be better instead of 1000/6000 (which probably wouldn't be appropriate). But I don't know if these combo are any good. So I'm still wondering about what stone(s) would be good - the machine option seems to have a consensus in regards to the one you cite, Chad.

Another thing I think I'd need to consider would be that cost isn't really a factor here - a good stone (or pair of them) might cost slightly less or slightly more than the powertool option...

A dilemma for sure!

Dan,
Matt Easton demonstrates one of the Fallkniven stone combos in one of his videos. The DC4, maybe? He brings the stone to the blade, not the other way around. The DC4 specs out at 800 grit for the diamond plate and something like 14,000(!) for the ceramic side. I almost bought one of those to try before I bought the Work Sharp.

I'd think 1,000 would be enough, but others may disagree. I wonder what Michael Edelson's videos recommended? Been a while since I watched them.

Edelson's approach is documented on YouTube as well - he taught a sword sharpening class at a HEMA event and it was videoed and posted online. He uses a 1x30 belt grinder with sanding belts up to 2000 grit, then a leather strop belt with polishing compound. Recommended edge angle of 20 degrees. I've followed his method with my Albions when touching them up for classes and had excellent and very consistent results. It is quite a high degree of polish, but as long as you aren't making the angle narrower the higher polish seems to just give better cutting performance (if you're willing to put the work in). I've had no issues with durability even when students smash the sword edge into a solid cutting stand.