Here are a few examples of the Little Ugly Axe. Each one is different. All are constructed from 1020 mild steel for the body and 5160 for the blade forge welded together. Handles are all ash. Blade lengths are usually between 2.75"-3.5" and overall lengths are usually between 15" & 18". They can be had with spikes, hammers, or simply a rounded poll.
I usually sell these for about $45 each plus shipping.
Comments and questions welcome.
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Do you take pseudo-requests? Like 'I want a curvy cutting edge and a spike' or 'flat top, beard and hammer please'?
Hello Kai. Yes I do indeed take requests and welcome custom work.
Is there something in particular you are looking for?
Is there something in particular you are looking for?
Little Ugly Axes are now available to order on the Forged In Time website!
http://www.forgedintime.com/handmade-axes/little-ugly-axe
http://www.forgedintime.com/handmade-axes/little-ugly-axe
I quite like the look of the last Ugly Axe with the spike, are these axes blunt and sharp or do you just make them sharp?
I wouldn't mind something like that one day, a sharp war axe that is..Also do you sell these as just heads and posiblly steel wedges, or the full kit and caboodil?
cheers.
I wouldn't mind something like that one day, a sharp war axe that is..Also do you sell these as just heads and posiblly steel wedges, or the full kit and caboodil?
cheers.
Hello Jimi,
I make these axes sharp, though I suppose I could blunt one on request for reenactment requirements.
I have been known to sell just the heads on occasion, though my preference is to sell it as a finished piece.
I make these axes sharp, though I suppose I could blunt one on request for reenactment requirements.
I have been known to sell just the heads on occasion, though my preference is to sell it as a finished piece.
Ugly axes? Top looks nice, simple and practical IMO. I like the handmade look. Bottom one was nice as well.
Those are nice little axes and when I recover from some spending on an A&A Dresden Rapier and a Gigantic Kukri I have to get back to this thread and consider maybe getting one of these axes: I can use one for sculpture when making walking sticks.
Also just had to buy a new water heater tank and pay a plumber to install it ...... so it will have to wait at least a month.
A small very VERY sharp axe with a long beard like the second from the top would be very good as a carving axe.
I also already have a very good quality adze that I can almost shave with.
Maybe a combination axe/adze with a full sized axe head and a small narrow adze in place of a hammer or spike might be a useful tool option ( The adze blade being maybe 1 1/4" wide edge and 2 1/2" long ? ).
Also just had to buy a new water heater tank and pay a plumber to install it ...... so it will have to wait at least a month.
A small very VERY sharp axe with a long beard like the second from the top would be very good as a carving axe.
I also already have a very good quality adze that I can almost shave with.
Maybe a combination axe/adze with a full sized axe head and a small narrow adze in place of a hammer or spike might be a useful tool option ( The adze blade being maybe 1 1/4" wide edge and 2 1/2" long ? ).
Thank you E. Storesund.
Hi Jean. Thanks for the compliment. A narrow adze instead of a hammer or spike would be no problem at all. I tend to make these with nice thinner bevels and as such they do work quite well for carving and light wood-working. I appreciate the consideration and will be happy to work with you when you are ready.
Hi Jean. Thanks for the compliment. A narrow adze instead of a hammer or spike would be no problem at all. I tend to make these with nice thinner bevels and as such they do work quite well for carving and light wood-working. I appreciate the consideration and will be happy to work with you when you are ready.
Hope it is okay to jump on an idea someone else already started, but I am also very interested in a carving tool like Jean described above.
Hello Michael Black.
Tell you what guys, I'll try to hammer one out in the next couple days and throw some pics on this thread.
Tell you what guys, I'll try to hammer one out in the next couple days and throw some pics on this thread.
Benjamin Rial wrote: |
Hello Michael Black.
Tell you what guys, I'll try to hammer one out in the next couple days and throw some pics on this thread. |
Might become irresistible but would have to wait past mid month to actually buy one like the one you make or suggest some minor design changes.
And I certainly don't mind that someone else finds the idea of an axe/adze combination a useful working tool.
Here's a couple pics of an axe/adze head that I forged and heat-treated yesterday. Still needs to be sharpened and mounted on the haft of course. Ideas? Suggestions?
Don't worry Jean, no rush and no obligation to buy. I just love making different stuff and this is a first attempt.
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Don't worry Jean, no rush and no obligation to buy. I just love making different stuff and this is a first attempt.
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Benjamin Rial wrote: |
Here's a couple pics of an axe/adze head that I forged and heat-treated yesterday. Still needs to be sharpened and mounted on the haft of course. Ideas? Suggestions?
Don't worry Jean, no rush and no obligation to buy. I just love making different stuff and this is a first attempt. |
Looks good in general but I would prefer a longer beard and cutting edge on the axe side and not curving as much: A bit like a long slightly curved knife edge and one could chop but also use the axe head with a kind of two handed draw cut to slice off wood with a great deal of control.
Hands position in than case might be one hand just below the axe head on the haft and the other hand on the top side of the axe blade.
Width of adze edge looks O.K. I think.
Not sure exactly but the adze head should be designed to not be get in the way when using a close to the head grip when using the axe: Might take a bit of experimenting with length of adze and how much curve to give it and angle of any secondary edge. Also if the secondary bevel is better on the top side or on the bottom side ? Or a double secondary bevel?
In reverse the axe head beard shouldn't be so long as to interfere or be unsafe when using the adze side.
The package should maybe include edge guards to protect the edges from damage and as a safety feature to avoid accidents when reaching for it off a tool rack or on a pile of other tools when working. ( One should avoid piling sharp tools on each other but it does happen when one is working to have a lot of tools out that will be put away neatly only after a job is done ).
Jean Thibodeau wrote: |
Looks good in general but I would prefer a longer beard and cutting edge on the axe side and not curving as much: A bit like a long slightly curved knife edge and one could chop but also use the axe head with a kind of two handed draw cut to slice off wood with a great deal of control. Hands position in than case might be one hand just below the axe head on the haft and the other hand on the top side of the axe blade. Width of adze edge looks O.K. I think. Not sure exactly but the adze head should be designed to not be get in the way when using a close to the head grip when using the axe: Might take a bit of experimenting with length of adze and how much curve to give it and angle of any secondary edge. Also if the secondary bevel is better on the top side or on the bottom side ? Or a double secondary bevel? In reverse the axe head beard shouldn't be so long as to interfere or be unsafe when using the adze side. The package should maybe include edge guards to protect the edges from damage and as a safety feature to avoid accidents when reaching for it off a tool rack or on a pile of other tools when working. ( One should avoid piling sharp tools on each other but it does happen when one is working to have a lot of tools out that will be put away neatly only after a job is done ). |
I like and appreciate your suggestions/thoughts Jean. I'm not much of a woodworker beyond the scope of grips and scabbards. I'll do some experimenting over the next couple weeks and keep posting the results on here for you. This one is honed extremely sharp and shaves aspen, white pine, and ash quite easily with both the axe and adze edges. I'll get some "action" pics up too.
Do you think leather, kydex, or a leather-shell/kydex insert would be what you would prefer for edge covers?
Benjamin Rial wrote: |
I like and appreciate your suggestions/thoughts Jean. I'm not much of a woodworker beyond the scope of grips and scabbards. I'll do some experimenting over the next couple weeks and keep posting the results on here for you. This one is honed extremely sharp and shaves aspen, white pine, and ash quite easily with both the axe and adze edges. I'll get some "action" pics up too. Do you think leather, kydex, or a leather-shell/kydex insert would be what you would prefer for edge covers? |
Sorry it took this long to reply, I must have missed seeing your post.
Now, keep in mind that if I had the Axe/Adze in hand I might find it fine as it is and that it has very sharp edges that can shave is very useful for more subtle carving that just " power chopping " to rapidly roughly shape a sculpture.
The suggestions about shape and length of blade are just based on looks and might or might not be better.
As to edge covers kydex that can snap on or off individually could make it much safer to use either the axe or adze part while making the unused side safer ..... for a quick reversing of edges alternating often during the work keeping both edge cover off would be safe for careful work but I like the option to make either side safe and the covers also protect the edges from damage when not in use.
If leather covered the covers would be made to look less " modern ", but functionally leather outer layer not essential.
I should get back to you for a more " serious " and official discussion about design and purchase of an Axe/Adze + maybe a more conventional Hatchet/Tomahawk at the same time ..... or maybe a Francisca inspired throwing axe shaped a bit like in this one: http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=...D+Antiqued
A curved haft a good idea for the throwing Francisca. ( An edge cover is also useful for any axe, using or collectable, as I find axes awkward to store or display safely without some sort of edge cover i.e. not too safe leaving a razor sharp axe leaning against a wall or on top of furniture where it could fall off on your bare feet ..... ;) :D :cool: ).
The design discussion can remain public but we can go to P.M. or e-mails for the official private business stuff some time next week.
( In progress discussions and/or pics can be interesting for everyone to read: I know I like following other peoples projects ).
Hi Jean,
I'm looking forward to further discussion regarding axes, adzes, and so forth. I'm all in favour of the design discussion remaining public, for I enjoy hearing input from other people.
Individual edge covers would definitely be the way to go for greatest safety and efficiency. Welted leather, kydex, and kydex/leather covers all work, it just depends upon what you are looking for. I most heartily agree that toe-retention is a good thing :D
I'm getting excited about this potential project. I always love to try new and different designs.
I'm looking forward to further discussion regarding axes, adzes, and so forth. I'm all in favour of the design discussion remaining public, for I enjoy hearing input from other people.
Individual edge covers would definitely be the way to go for greatest safety and efficiency. Welted leather, kydex, and kydex/leather covers all work, it just depends upon what you are looking for. I most heartily agree that toe-retention is a good thing :D
I'm getting excited about this potential project. I always love to try new and different designs.
Benjamin Rial wrote: |
Hi Jean,
I'm looking forward to further discussion regarding axes, adzes, and so forth. I'm all in favour of the design discussion remaining public, for I enjoy hearing input from other people. Individual edge covers would definitely be the way to go for greatest safety and efficiency. Welted leather, kydex, and kydex/leather covers all work, it just depends upon what you are looking for. I most heartily agree that toe-retention is a good thing :D I'm getting excited about this potential project. I always love to try new and different designs. |
Kydex is probably the best option as it can be shaped to snap onto the axe/adze edges and have the springiness to stay on without needing retaining straps or metal snaps fasteners.
Or the tool axe/adze it's more of a precision instrument so a fairly short handle and it would be used mostly with wrist movements with maybe a little from the elbow in quick and hopefully precise and fast chopping/cutting action.
The one you made looks pretty good and it's hard to tell if the rounded cutting edge is better than the longer and less curved cutting edge I suggested ? It's really something one has to feel when cutting into wood and either way one adapts to the tool and after a while one learns how to use it best.
As far as a tomahawk or a Francisca I'm ambivalent ? One could make a tomahawk but inspired by the longer distance from the haft to the axe edge and it's curving down and curving back up with a pointy top horn ? ( Could also be a modern " tactical " design but still in the style of the " Ugly little axes ": Zombie killing tomahawk one might see on the " Walking Dead " T.V. program. ;) :D :cool: ).
I'm mostly just throwing out ideas and suggestions but I don't want to micromanage your creativity and I'm fairly certain that I will like whatever you decide makes the best using tool for the axe/adze and the tomahawk>Francisca if I decide to order both at once.
I should get back to you in a day or two as I'm waiting to be into my next creditcard billing period before I make an official order.
Oh, just had another idea: In addition to the normal hatchet sized axe/adze a smaller scale one might be very useful for more detailed finer work after the bigger version has roughed thing out.
Maybe a 12" to 14" handle and a smaller head with the adze cutting edge around 1 1/8" wide and the axe side edge maybe 2 1/2" wide. The head small but with some weight to it, and in use it would be mostly precise chopping using mostly just wrist movement lifting the head and letting the falling weight of the axe/adze do most of the work ?
More like chisels on a stick in action rather than using a hammer and chisel to sculpt.
Many ways to use the edges as one could also use them like one uses scrapers to finish surfaces.
Maybe a 12" to 14" handle and a smaller head with the adze cutting edge around 1 1/8" wide and the axe side edge maybe 2 1/2" wide. The head small but with some weight to it, and in use it would be mostly precise chopping using mostly just wrist movement lifting the head and letting the falling weight of the axe/adze do most of the work ?
More like chisels on a stick in action rather than using a hammer and chisel to sculpt.
Many ways to use the edges as one could also use them like one uses scrapers to finish surfaces.
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